Lighting options for shed with no electrical.

[boggen]

Very true... Like I said previously, the key is to minimize the draw-down so that usage doesn't leave you below the threshold where it will freeze easily, and then be sure to get it topped right back off when the sun is up again. This might well mean spending more money for lower draw lights, installing more batteries to provide a larger "base" of power, and even installing a cut-off system that will shut everything down once voltage drops to a certain level.

On the other side, there may be a need to for more / larger charging components to ensure that it will a) support a larger battery farm or b) recharge in less time during the winter months.

as i said skiddish about battery / batteries and solar power. it solar panels and battery / batteries can work. but you start getting up in cost fairly quickly. not to mention issues in life span of batteries and solar panels. just like you would with a generator. there PRO's and CON's to each.

generator, to me for a shed area, would more likely be better used. so one can use a power tool throughout the day and night to work on something, and also at same time power some lights. a solar panel and battery / batteries only have so much, before you run out and are dead.

most generators i see, do have a 12V vs 120V plug in. to run some LED lights. or just run regular 110V lights, and go with the LED version of light bulbs vs regular light bulbs.

 

[farm guy]

Hi All,

I would like put in my next 2 cents. As for as the life span of solar cells, the good quality ones come with a 25 year warranty to deliver at 80% of their rated power. Two, a good deep cycle battery drawn down to around 50% depth of discharge then recharged should last between 4 to 8 years assuming it is hooked to a good charge controller. Bottom line, if you get good quality parts, size your system for the amount of sun you get, you should have no problems. On a side note I would advise LEDs because of the watt to lumen pay off. You get a a lot of light for not a lot of power consumed! You can get a good 20 watt solar cell off Ebay for around $50.00 US and it has a 25 year warranty! If you want a VERY good site to bone up on batteries go here Deep Cycle Battery FAQ this guys do this for a living and have lots of good info concerning deep cycle batteries. I went here to size my system, I learned a lot about batteries! Bottom line I would go solar, But you need to decide how much light you need and how long to you want it on. Based on that information you can size your system.

Just my 4 cents.

Farm Guy

 

[farm guy]

I've been watching with interest for my own building that's in the trees, I've concluded there are many and varied solutions, none perfect.

For that reason I had to place the solar cell for my buck barn 75 feet away from the barn!:mur: But it is in now and works fine! :cool2:

 

[JamesHW]

I think solar is probably the way to go for lights and maybe a radio, etc. But if you have an active stream nearby maybe micro hydro could be an option? I have a dam I'm restoring down the hill from my home site where I want to build a little rustic cabin for changing and storage and am considering a little hydro electric setup to provide lights.

 

[Travelover]

Hi All,

I would like put in my next 2 cents. As for as the life span of solar cells, the good quality ones come with a 25 year warranty to deliver at 80% of their rated power. Two, a good deep cycle battery drawn down to around 50% depth of discharge then recharged should last between 4 to 8 years assuming it is hooked to a good charge controller. Bottom line, if you get good quality parts, size your system for the amount of sun you get, you should have no problems. On a side note I would advise LEDs because of the watt to lumen pay off. You get a a lot of light for not a lot of power consumed! You can get a good 20 watt solar cell off Ebay for around $50.00 US and it has a 25 year warranty! If you want a VERY good site to bone up on batteries go here Deep Cycle Battery FAQ this guys do this for a living and have lots of good info concerning deep cycle batteries. I went here to size my system, I learned a lot about batteries! Bottom line I would go solar, But you need to decide how much light you need and how long to you want it on. Based on that information you can size your system.

Just my 4 cents.

Farm Guy

+1. You can pick up a 20+ watt solar panel and controller off eBay, a size 27 deep cycle battery from Walmart and a few LED lights (eBay, Amazon) and you are off to the races for a couple hundred bucks. Many of the controllers even have a low battery shut off so if you forget and leave the lights on, it won't discharge the battery to a level that will damage it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160843694586?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300733021682?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

Get about 10 of these and mount to a board.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200716750996?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

 

[farm guy]

I think solar is probably the way to go for lights and maybe a radio, etc. But if you have an active stream nearby maybe micro hydro could be an option? I have a dam I'm restoring down the hill from my home site where I want to build a little rustic cabin for changing and storage and am considering a little hydro electric setup to provide lights.

Hi James,

If you do in deed set it up PLEASE post some pictures and info about it! I have a seasonal spring that fills my pond next to my shop. It drops 75 feet over a 330 foot run. The supply pipe is 4" corrugated and that could be something I could use for charging in the winter to help my solar cells. :thumbsup:

Thanks


Farm Guy

 

[brokenknee]

I think solar is probably the way to go for lights and maybe a radio, etc. But if you have an active stream nearby maybe micro hydro could be an option? I have a dam I'm restoring down the hill from my home site where I want to build a little rustic cabin for changing and storage and am considering a little hydro electric setup to provide lights.

Hydro would be interesting, but no stream available, even if there was, freezing would be an issue in my climate. I think I will end up going solar.

There is a 30X90 slab not far from the shed that is still standing. If/when I decide to put up a shed there I will look into the cost of running power to it.

The slab is not in a location that would be my first choice. I will have to weigh the cost of running power to that location verses to the cost of a new slab.

Thanks for all the input, all have had good ideas.

 

[JamesHW]

Hi James,

If you do in deed set it up PLEASE post some pictures and info about it! I have a seasonal spring that fills my pond next to my shop. It drops 75 feet over a 330 foot run. The supply pipe is 4" corrugated and that could be something I could use for charging in the winter to help my solar cells. :thumbsup:

Thanks


Farm Guy

Not to hijack the OP's thread, but I'm at least a couple of years away from actually restoring the dam, but you know I will be sharing pics and discussions on my work as it progresses. The dam was breached some years ago as a result of neglect following some logging and the subsequent skidding of logs over it which stripped away the natural covering that prevented erosion. This allowed the stream to bypass the concrete wall that faced the sand berm that makes up the dam. I am still in the process of clearing all the brush and saplings, which with only a few weeks a year and no mechanical access, is slow going. Interestingly, in researching micro hydro I came across the image below here which if you removed the water wheel and pipe, almost exactly matches in topography the low side of my dam, including the flat area that is adjacent to the stream. By my observations, the water flow in the picture is somewhat less then what I believe my stream consistently produces year round.

 

[Boeing]

I have a 24X40 steel shop with no electricity. I bought a diesel generator....DEAFENING. Sooo...I built a shelf for a deep cycle battery, a 5 watt (too small) solar panel which I screwed to PVC and onto the roof. Then....used 14-3 house wire with key-less fixtures and boxes with house switches. I put 5 lights overhead on 2 switches to give me light. (I did this incase I EVER actually have electricity) I tried 50watt incandescent bulbs (12volt) and they killed the battery fast. I found LED bulbs but they are way expensive. Sooo. I bought 15W Flourescent bulbs...great light, small current draw. Don't know how they will work in winter. When I am away I use a jumper cable to the tractor battery so the little 5 watt panel keeps it up too. I'm currently in the market for a much larger solar panel....80-100 watts, a second battery in series and maybe an inverter for small stuff. I hate firing up that loud generator.:2cents:

 

[meburdick]

100W panel on eBay: 100 W Watt 100W 100Watts Photovoltaic PV Solar Panel Module 12V RV Boat | eBay

I've also read up on how to build your own panel from solar cells that you can buy in bulk as "seconds"... Like this: 1KW Nearly Whole 3x6 Short Tabbed Solar Cells for DIY Solar Panel Best Value!! | eBay

$90 for second quality panels that I have to put together and will likely get enough to do 750-800 Watts, or $100 more for one fully assembled and warrantied. By the time I build a box to put them in and get all of the wiring, that $100 is likely cut in half. I wouild most likely buy the fully assembled ones.

I would get LED lights and place just a few. I would also build a "bump-out" on the shed where I could install deep cycle batteries with a 12V inverter. 3-4 batteries would give me a good amount of available power, the inverter would allow me to power the battery tenders for the snowmobile and tractor batteries. I'd have electrical in the shed as well, but don't expect that I'd use it much (except for maybe the overhead door opener I'm planning on installing with the door).

Seems that the biggest thing to consider for folks like me (where I have electricity already there) is whether or not I would ever see any sort of return on my investment. My shed will need 220 in it for welding, so I have to decide if I'm going to trench the yard again to put it in or if I'll just use my generator (which will get little other use ever) for when I weld.

 

[grsthegreat]

ahhhh.... we electricians need work.

hire me to run real power to your sheds. I have it run to all 4 buildings on my property... and most are 200-300 feet apart or greater

 

[The kid]

I have a shed in the back part of my property (about 1,000) feet or more from my house. There is no electrical on that part of my property. The shed is old (but sound) about 12 X 40. No windows and two doors. This is not a typical machine shed, it was build about two feet off the ground with a wood floor. Not sure of the reason for this, but that is what they did.

Looking for options to get light into it, as even in daytime it is fairly dark in there. I know adding windows would add light but looking for other options if there are any. I thought about 12v lights with a deep cycle battery, but not sure how often I would have to charge the battery.

Any thoughts?

If lighting is all you need then rent a trencher and get some PVC pipe and bury 10-2 or 8-2 with ground. Then use LED lightning inside. Probably 12-2 with ground would be enough if only using LED light bulbs. Put up a small breaker box to control more than on circuit. Problem solved. -Robert

 

[grsthegreat]

If lighting is all you need then rent a trencher and get some PVC pipe and bury 10-2 or 8-2 with ground. Then use LED lightning inside. Probably 12-2 with ground would be enough if only using LED light bulbs. Put up a small breaker box to control more than on circuit. Problem solved. -Robert

dont care what the load is..... 12/2 is useless at 1,000 foot run. dont waste your money. even a 5 amp load will have a 17% voltage drop. To get into the 5-6% drop range, you could only pull 2 amps.

 

[farm guy]

Hi All,

This is my last time I will put in my two cents in on this topic. But before I do let me state I am a electrician by trade and have my license from the State Fire Marshal, you can do what you want. BUT if you run wire like that in violation of current NEC Fire Code you are on the hook, if it causes a fire or hurts someone. Your home owner insurance will NOT cover you for that! The NEC Code is there for a reason! To keep things safe! It may not be you who gets hurt can you deal with it if it was your young daughter??

Enough said

Farm Guy

 

[Travelover]

Yea, I wouldn't put in a long, too light gauge wire because sooner or later someone will want to run a heater, air compressor or other high load device and they won't be happy. Go with solar & battery until you can justify the right wiring.

 

[3930dave]

Best fix ($ vs. db reduction) I've seen for a loud generator was the guy who used a almost brand new 600cc stock street bike muffler on a gas generator. (Might be on here already, but I think I saw it elsewhere ?).

Many guys buying a brand new 600cc sport bike drive it home, and pull the stock exhaust right away. So..... there are plenty of virtually new stock exhausts listed on Ebay, for not much money. With the crazy rpm that sport bikes run, the guy was guessing that this stock muffler would have no restriction issue on a genny. He was right.

Did a nice fab job for a new genny he was taking for a sand weekend at Glamis. Properly braced, and pointing straight up, worked well.

Rgds, D.

 

[grsthegreat]

Best fix ($ vs. db reduction) I've seen for a loud generator was the guy who used a almost brand new 600cc stock street bike muffler on a gas generator. (Might be on here already, but I think I saw it elsewhere ?).

Many guys buying a brand new 600cc sport bike drive it home, and pull the stock exhaust right away. So..... there are plenty of virtually new stock exhausts listed on Ebay, for not much money. With the crazy rpm that sport bikes run, the guy was guessing that this stock muffler would have no restriction issue on a genny. He was right.

Did a nice fab job for a new genny he was taking for a sand weekend at Glamis. Properly braced, and pointing straight up, worked well.

Rgds, D.

while building my house back in 1996, i had to use a 10K generator to power my equipment as power was not on my property. I had a day job, so built the house between 4pm and midnight.

To spare the neighbors ...... and my sanity... i simply installed an automobile muffler onto my generator. Man did it quiet the thing down. Sounded more like a car running at a high idle.

Ran this for 6 months. I still have the generator and it runs great. This muffler did NO damage to the unit.

 

[3930dave]

GRS - I've known a few guys who have done exactly as you describe with an automotive muffler, with very good results. Basically we are adding a high capacity muffler to something that arrives stock with not much more than a flame arrestor attached.

What I liked about the sport bike muffler is: compact, typically high quality, and should have some well thought out/easy-to-bolt-to attachment points. Oh yeah, and a bit of a bling finish ! :thumbsup:

AND, in the above 600cc scenario, cheap. The guy in the article I read picked his up off Fleabay for something like $15. Just find the guy that is fed up with tripping over the stock exhaust in the garage, and/or getting yelled at by the wife to clean up, and you've got a great deal !

Quiet is nice, just hard to finance directly by buying a Honda. This type of workaround is a great solution !

I was thinking about this as a backup to a battery/solar system. Size the solar to handle efficient lights and the occasional light load (ex. radio), and haul a generator out only when you need to run the odd heavy load, or give the batteries a fast top-up on a rainy day.

Rgds, D.