Lighting & workbench?

   / Lighting & workbench? #41  
<font color="blue"> Why 20 amp instead of 15? </font>

Handle more load, especially a starting load of any motors.

<font color="blue"> Do you mean GFCI breakers or GFCI outlet receptacles?</font>

Either one you want to. The receptacles will be cheaper than a breaker. Put one in the first outlet location and feed thru it to the others.
 
   / Lighting & workbench? #42  
Shade, being you are in Ohio like me, you may want to consider the cold weather flourescent fixtures. I am tired of the dim light that my 4' are putting out & am going to replace them with 8' cold weather fixtures. I do have several of the 4' hanging directley over several of my workbenches. I have them on separate switches. For whatever reason, these eyes need alot more light to see what they used to see. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
   / Lighting & workbench?
  • Thread Starter
#43  
btolle, I like the idea of the retractable electric cord - - I may use that.

I finished the lights in half the shop today - - I used 6 T8 fluorescent 4' fixtures on one switch. I'll wire the other half on another switch. And I'll put a couple over the workbench, as soon as I decide where it goes.

Thanks to all for your suggestions - its coming along.
 
   / Lighting & workbench? #44  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blueclass=small">( Also, metal or plastic?... electric boxes that is...? Whic would be better for an unheated barn/shop?)</font>

I just had a licensed electrician add some more outlets and switches to my shop, and he used all metal boxes and conduit. He didn't offer me a choice on plastic vs. metal. My shop is unheated, but not likely to get as cold as yours.

What is the advantage of plastic, cost? Seems like it ought to insulate just as well or better than metal.

Pete )</font>
Metal rusts. More importantly, in damp applications such as chicken coups or other animal husbandry appliations, leakage currents that would only be an anoyance to a human being can prove fatal to livestock. Hence plastic conduit with a true ground wire is recommended for farms. I suppose metal conduit with a ground wire (not using the conduit as protective ground even though allowed by code) would provide the safety without the rust protection.

I was shocked (pun intended) when I found out that plastic was recommended for farm applications over metal. Few city slicker electrictions will know of the issues affecting farm installations. I sure didn't.

Back to lighting. I myself like fluorescent lighting as general lighting. It is more economical than incandescent and less sensitive to frequent on/off cycles than vapor lighting. You can buy better tubes than your general shop lights to get reasonable color rendition. I did some research and replaced my .89 tubes with 4.99 tubes and my wife instantly stopped complaining about the "ghostly color". Good tubes really are worth the extra money.

I would go for fluorescent lighting for the shop with halogen for work areas if it were me. Fluorescent for area lighting with halogen for high intensity, good color rendition spot lighting where I work.

But that's just me.
 
   / Lighting & workbench? #45  
Another question regarding lighting...
What would the advantages be for using flourescent lighting rather than 6 regular 100 watt lights for "general lighting" of my unheated barn/shop? How many 4' or 8' lights would you suggest?
 
   / Lighting & workbench? #46  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Another question regarding lighting...
What would the advantages be for using flourescent lighting rather than 6 regular 100 watt lights for "general lighting" of my unheated barn/shop?)</font>

The main advantage (in my opinion) the is the energy efficiency / cost savings. A fluorescent tube uses about 1/4 the wattage to produce the same number of lumens as an incandescent bulb.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How many 4' or 8' lights would you suggest?)</font>

If you just want to replace 100 watt incandescent bulbs, you can buy little light bulb-shaped mini fluorescent tubes that screw into a regular light socket at any big box store. How many hanging long fixtures you want just depends on how well lit you need your space and what you will be doing in there. If you just want to see your way around then very little would do. If you're going to be doing mechanic work then you'll want lots of light.

Pete
 
   / Lighting & workbench? #47  
I tried those compact fluorescent bulbs in my unheated garage two years ago. They were great until the weather got codl. Then they didn't want to come on. I went back to incnadescent.
 
   / Lighting & workbench? #48  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I tried those compact fluorescent bulbs in my unheated garage two years ago. They were great until the weather got codl. Then they didn't want to come on. I went back to incnadescent. )</font>

It doesn't get very codl here in Texas. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Pete
 
   / Lighting & workbench? #49  
Just finished installing the new fixtures in my building. My builing is 30 X 40. There are two garage doors & a man door on the 40' side. I put in 6 lights. Two rows of 3 back to back. That covered the two bay sections of the garage. I had 4 of the 4 footers there before. What a huge improvement. I will probably add 2 more 8 footers to replace the other lights that I now have up in the remaining section. As to the amount of fixtures, it all depends on what you are going to be using the shop for. That said 4, 8's would light it up pretty good. 6 would make it nice and bright. You can split them up on different switches if you don't want to have them all on at once. Hope this helps some. BTW, the cold weather fixtures are really great. Came home last night & turned them on with the temp below 30, they were nice & bright.
 

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