Lightning strike, well pump box failed

[WinterDeere]

A few start cap's laying around is always a good idea. We lose them more often on our HVAC systens (we have several) than anything else, but also the air compressor and well pump. Nailing the "uF" or "MFD" value isn't critical for an emergency stop-gap when something dies on a Sunday, as long as the voltage rating is sufficiently high, but you'll want to replace it with the proper value for permanent replacement.

Between all of our HVAC outdoor and indoor units, air compressor, and a few big machines in the shop with cap start motors, I'd bet I replace at least one start capacitor on something every year.

Note, many HVAC outdoor units can have 3-terminal dual capacitors, but they can be easily replaced by two singles, if you have them.

 

[Valveman]

I think The check valve is good. It only cycles when a faucet is open. I moved in may of 23. The cycling was pretty fast. Shower on the other side of house would cycle every 9 seconds. The same thing happened when using yard hydrants outside to run a sprinkler. I wrote to support and they helped me adjust the pressure switch higher so that it cycled slower. It was a 60 psi switch and increasing to 70 slowed it down.
I am watching it right now. With kitchen faucet open and on cold, I’m running 69 psi and steady. No cycles. Bathroom sink doesn’t flow that fast so with just the bathroom sink open on cold, it cycles on for 23 seconds. Hot water will always be faster because the hot doesn’t flow as fast. There is a spin filter on the hot which restricts the flow as well as the boiler itself. I need to put a larger spin filter on the whole thing because I’m seeing some sediment in the toilet tanks and a few aerators on the faucets.
But the point is the check valve is solid. I think my pressure is just so high, that it overwhelms the csv and short cycles

The 60 PSI Cycle Stop Valve will regulate on the high side of about 64 PSI. If the kitchen sink keeps the pump running continuously at 69 PSI, the pressure gauge could just be off by 5 PSI. I would just tighten the large screw in the pressure switch so the pump shuts off higher than 75 PSI according to that gauge. Maybe all it is.

 

[Valveman]

We see that coincidence frequently after lightning, bad relays and caps.

Lightning can do crazy things. I have seen it hit the ground a half mile from a well that didn't even have electric service yet and it took out the motor. But I still think lightning taking out a start cap is a coincidence. The cap was probably already weak from cycling and the lighting caused the power to flicker off/on quickly which finally took it out.

 

[Valveman]

A start cap, relay, and a pressure switch for the well pump and the HVAC unit are a good thing to have on the shelf during a Christmas holiday.

 

[WinterDeere]

A start cap, relay, and a pressure switch for the well pump and the HVAC unit are a good thing to have on the shelf during a Christmas holiday.

Last summer, while core-drilling a plumbing hole thru the stone wall above my pressure switch, I caught the shoelace loop of my work boot on the pressure switch housing as I was backing out of that tight corner with a core drill in hand. Somehow, the 1/4" brass nipple to which it was mounted was nearly corroded thru where it was threaded into the tank tee, and it just came with my boot, only stopped when I ran out of wire.

Of course then the pump kicked on and started spouting water like a gyser thru the open fitting, until I could get my shoelace free of the pressure switch, run over to the breaker panel, identify the correct breaker, and shut it down. Even then, the 20 gallons sitting in the pressure tank had to drain back out thru that open fitting, after shutting the main valve to the rest of the house.

As it happened, I did have a spare pressure switch, but not a spare 1/4" brass pipe nipple!

Luckily, I have threading dies and was able to cut and re-thread what was left of the original nipple. After modifying an easy-out extraction tool to get the remainder of the old broken end out of the tee, I think I had the house back up and running within 90 minutes. And of course it was a Sunday, when nothing real local was open.

 

[Valveman]

Last summer, while core-drilling a plumbing hole thru the stone wall above my pressure switch, I caught the shoelace loop of my work boot on the pressure switch housing as I was backing out of that tight corner with a core drill in hand. Somehow, the 1/4" brass nipple to which it was mounted was nearly corroded thru where it was threaded into the tank tee, and it just came with my boot, only stopped when I ran out of wire.

Of course then the pump kicked on and started spouting water like a gyser thru the open fitting, until I could get my shoelace free of the pressure switch, run over to the breaker panel, identify the correct breaker, and shut it down. Even then, the 20 gallons sitting in the pressure tank had to drain back out thru that open fitting, after shutting the main valve to the rest of the house.

As it happened, I did have a spare pressure switch, but not a spare 1/4" brass pipe nipple!

Luckily, I have threading dies and was able to cut and re-thread what was left of the original nipple. After modifying an easy-out extraction tool to get the remainder of the old broken end out of the tee, I think I had the house back up and running within 90 minutes. And of course it was a Sunday, when nothing real local was open.

Made my day! I'm adding a 1/4X3 brass nipple to my spare parts. Lol!

 

[5030]

If I were you, I'd call your service provider as there is an issue on the pole(s). 300 plus acv is not right in ANY residential situation.

 

[workinonit]

He has 240 VAC going to his well head. He's good.

 

[ponytug]

@eptm vacuum sealing parts with instructions is a great idea!

That is genius. I have some replacement items for other important things around the farm, in my connex that are ziplocked with identification of the parts. I think I need to add instructions. I kept the control box that failed and plan to replace the start cap. And the relay. I’ve been watching some videos about the multi-meter because, I really don’t know my way around the multi-meter very well. I always say I’m going to learn but I muddle thru a task and then move on. I also need to get an amperage meter that has the clamp. I really don’t know how I have justified not buying one with everything I built here and with all the things that require troubleshooting.
I am surprised that nobody offers a one or two night class where they teach you to use them, along with some practical troubleshooting.

Back to the cSV cycling, I am not sure if I should put another tank in-line, or if I should put some kind of flow or pressure restrictor in. But I definitely have more pump cycling than In planned on having.

@WoodChuckDad have you tried YouTube? I have learned a fair bit from this channel; "Electrican U", but there are many others. Here is one of his how to use a DVM.

All the best,

Peter

 

[WinterDeere]

If I were you, I'd call your service provider as there is an issue on the pole(s). 300 plus acv is not right in ANY residential situation.

It's possible to measure voltages above line voltage in circuits containing VFD's or reactive elements (capacitors, inductors).