Log Splitter Question...

triptester

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Generally the return pipe enters the top of the tank then extends to near the tank bottom where the fluid is discharged.
 
  
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/pine

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What are the most common or likely sources of contaminates ? other than worn parts...?...seems to be the most vulnerable place is the filler cap...(all kinds of scenarios there)...and that would leave only a suction strainer to protect the pump...
 

ovrszd

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Generally the return pipe enters the top of the tank then extends to near the tank bottom where the fluid is discharged.
And mine may, I didn't build the tank so don't know for sure.
 

ovrszd

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What are the most common or likely sources of contaminates ? other than worn parts...?...seems to be the most vulnerable place is the filler cap...(all kinds of scenarios there)...and that would leave only a suction strainer to protect the pump...
Yep, filler cap would be the only source other than parts failure. I've had my splitter 11 years and have never removed the tank cap.
 

Rich B1

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A suction strainer stops chunks. Chunks destroy pumps abruptly.

Suction strainers do nothing for the fines that slowly destroy your pump, cylinders, motors, etc. A pressure line filter is nice if the pump dies, but are expensive and bulky. They do nothing for any contamination coming from system components,

Only a good return line filter prevents fines and chunks from the system from getting into your tank. Clean oil from the tank into the pump gives you a clean system.

There is always a risk you introduce contamination when filling. A filler with a screen keeps the chunks out. A breather keeps airborne fines out. Clean oil out of a sealed container is actually not that clean. But, a simple gear pump system with a return liner filter, run under no load, will clean itself up rapidly.

On a simple system, there are diffusers you can add to your return line. They do help reduce foaming of the oil.
 

SylvainG

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Yep, filler cap would be the only source other than parts failure. I've had my splitter 11 years and have never removed the tank cap.

What? do you mean that in 11 years, you never changed your hydraulic oil in your splitter? Mine ask to change the hydraulic oil every 100 hours or yearly


Every 100 hours or per 1 year
Clean spark arrester (optional)
Check/adjust maximum load speed*
Check/adjust valve clearance*
Clean fuel tank and filter*
Change hydraulic oil
Change hydraulic oil filter


A suction strainer stops chunks. Chunks destroy pumps abruptly.

Suction strainers do nothing for the fines that slowly destroy your pump, cylinders, motors, etc. A pressure line filter is nice if the pump dies, but are expensive and bulky. They do nothing for any contamination coming from system components,

Only a good return line filter prevents fines and chunks from the system from getting into your tank. Clean oil from the tank into the pump gives you a clean system.

There is always a risk you introduce contamination when filling. A filler with a screen keeps the chunks out. A breather keeps airborne fines out. Clean oil out of a sealed container is actually not that clean. But, a simple gear pump system with a return liner filter, run under no load, will clean itself up rapidly.

On a simple system, there are diffusers you can add to your return line. They do help reduce foaming of the oil.

Mine has no filter, just strainer. Might be why they ask that the oil be changed every year or 100 hours. I'll be adding return line filter to it. My splitter flow is 8 gpm so I guess this 15 gpm filter will do the trick. I'm in Canada so my choice of suppliers is limited :(

One question though, must the filter be vertical? Can it be horizontal? My return line is at the bottom of the tank and the filter would hang low where it my be ripped off if I hit something while moving the splitter.
 

DL Meisen

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One question though, must the filter be vertical? Can it be horizontal? My return line is at the bottom of the tank and the filter would hang low where it my be ripped off if I hit something while moving the splitter.
A filter is a filter its physical orientation probably has no effect on how it operates other than it needs to be between control valve and tank... Use what ever plumbing that is appropriate to locate it in safe area (above top of tank level) ... I would bet a couple of nipples and a 90° elbow would do...

As for changing hydraulic fluid, my splitter is over 30 years old, don't know if previous owners ever change fluids so I have no idea of how many hours on it.... But it uses Dexron II (ATF) and if a car can go 100,000 miles without auto trans fluid change, I seriously doubt the need to change fluid every 100 hours...

Dale
 
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3Ts

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On one of my tractors, the hydraulic filter is vertical, the other (bigger tractor FWIW) is horizontal. I don't think it makes a difference except for how easy (or not) it is to change them.
 

ericm979

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If the return line filter is below the level in the tank, you can't change the filter without also draining the tank.
 

ovrszd

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What? do you mean that in 11 years, you never changed your hydraulic oil in your splitter? Mine ask to change the hydraulic oil every 100 hours or yearly


Every 100 hours or per 1 year
Clean spark arrester (optional)
Check/adjust maximum load speed*
Check/adjust valve clearance*
Clean fuel tank and filter*
Change hydraulic oil
Change hydraulic oil filter




Mine has no filter, just strainer. Might be why they ask that the oil be changed every year or 100 hours. I'll be adding return line filter to it. My splitter flow is 8 gpm so I guess this 15 gpm filter will do the trick. I'm in Canada so my choice of suppliers is limited :(

One question though, must the filter be vertical? Can it be horizontal? My return line is at the bottom of the tank and the filter would hang low where it my be ripped off if I hit something while moving the splitter.
You answered your own question in regards to changing oil.

See my pics in regards to filter positioning.
 
 
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