Log Splitter

[Ford850]

I've been trying to decide on whether to buy a 3ph or a trailer style log splitter. As I understand it the 3ph will be a slower unit, not as handy since I can't use it off my porperty unless I drive my tractor, but it is less expensive.
Of the trailer style, I've researched the Northern Tool 'Northstar' splitters and the TSC husky splitters. At first I was looking at the larger 35 - 37 ton units, but maybe the 22 - 30 ton will work for the 5-10 cords I'll split each year. I think the Northstar are the best looking, but the $200 shipping is a deterent.
I've read the reviews on here regarding the 3ph splitters. Does anyone have the Husky or Northstar splitters for some feedback? I'll be splitting everything from stringy Red Elm to Oak.
Thanks.

 

[Slacker]

I just bought a 3pt hitch Northern Fool splitter. It recommends 11GPM. My tractors pump makes 8.x gpm. It's not a speed demon, but its not really slow either. Keep the RPM's up and all is fine.
Just an idea I had last weekend: Got an old 5x7 trailer around? Buy the $499 Northern fool model and mount it on your trailer. Make sure your hydro hoses are plenty long and your all set. Not only can you split the wood, you can haul it too.
The "auto return" on my splitter doesn't seem to work but I've not given up on it. This coming weekend I'll figure it out. I think I may have set up the valve lever wrong.

 

[JerryK]

If you feel confident enough to work on hydralics, feel you can do it safely, you can adjust the 'trip' pont on your control valve so it will auto-reverse properly. There is usually a screw on the unit that has a large jamp nut on it that you turn to adjust the pressure at which the unit reverses. Sometimes this adjustment has a cap on it to cover it, sometimes not. If it has a cap, sometimes when you remove this cap it will leak a little fluid while you are adjusting it, and this is normal. Most adjustments are clockwise, you make it trip at a higher pressure, and counter clockwise, you make it trip at a lower pressure. Yours probably needs to be turned counter clockwise a little. Most of these trips have to be adjusted every few years or so, depending on spring wear, etc. Try to see if you have any info on your particular valve unit that came with your splitter. Don't forget the safety glasses, and hydralic fluid under pressure can cut like a knife.

I have a little 20 ton horizontal/verticle 5hp Harbor Freight unit, that I only use vertically [me sitting on an egg crate horseing the wood]. It splits wood fine, with the little OVHV motor running just over idle, not using much gas in the process. Don't know why you would want to put the hours and wear/tear on a tractor to do what that little splitter will do, while buring all that diesel. Just my .02 $........

 

[6sunset6]

I was going to get a vertical unit for the 3 pt for spliting some really big ones but I realized the 2 stage pumps provide a LOT of force . So I am going to
put a thumb on my bucket and some supports on my splitter and dump the big ones into the splitter. I think I agree with why put those kind of hours on the tractor engine.

 

[BubbaJr]

I bought a 22 ton 6 HP Swisher splitter from TSC about 5 years ago. It has split everything I've been able to put in front of the wedge. That includes Oak, Walnut, Maple, Hickory, Locust, and even some wet stringy elm.

The only problem I have had with it, is the crappy Briggs & Stratton engine. I've never had a B&S engine that was worth anything, but after I overhaul the carb each time I want to use it, I do get the job done. And by the way, I do use a fuel additive in the lousy gas, and my non B&S engines will start right up without fail.

One other thing that I've noticed is that the Swisher seems to have a lot beefier frame than the Husky models that TSC currently sells. One bonus that I like is that I can park the tractor right next to the business end of the splitter and toss the split wood right in the FEL bucket, which saves some steps.

 

[Slacker]

To the guys who wonder why I prefer to run my splitter off the spool valves (and put hrs on my tractor), the answer is I do not want another gas engine to maintain. A few other factors also come into play.

1. Diesel stores better than gas (splitter is at my "crap has hit the fan" cabin and all supplies are stockpiled in case of a natural or un-natural disaster.
2. The tractor is brand new. I won't wear that engine out in my lifetime unless I use it commercially.
3. The 3pt model was less $ than the trailer mounted job.
4. I like to fell/cut and split near where the wood falls.
5. I seem to collect flat trailer tires. I think it may be related to the Honey locust that I'm cutting and splittin!
6. I have 2 sets of remotes (that came standard) to pump fluid, why not use them?
7. I like the sound of a diesel much better than a B&S!
8. Using my tractor is fun.

 

[Big Daddy]

I, too, use a 3 point splitter - the Wallenstein WX320. Also, as others mentioned, I am able to use it over the trailer used for hauling the wood. This saves the back-bending work of loading the finished material after it is split.

I had rented several trailer models over the years before I bought the Wallenstein. Other than distance transporting, I have found no real advantage to a trailer unit. They are far more costly to purchase, more cumbersome in tight spots, more costly to maintain and are rarely able to split faster than a good 3 point. My unit has a 25 ton rated ram; and it will go through a 12 inch thick by 24 in long ash in 4 or 5 seconds.

George

 

[6sunset6]

I understand completly about piston maintainence. I converted my log splitter to an electric motor. Face mounted 2 stage pump 4"diam cylinder.
Thin wedge . I should put wings on it . If I could find a 5hp single ph face mount motor I could split anything. But they don't make them. I could belt drive but lose a lot that way. Anyway there are pros and cons to every single thing we do. AH I just answered one of my own questions. The two stage hydraulic pumps are 650 psi and 2500 psi . So tracter hydraulics would be at the high pressure end . At around 8 gpm a little slow but would split anything. I might do that yet for the really big ones.

 

[xlr82v2]

I'm in the "Go with the self-powered splitter-- why put the hours and wear and tear on your tractor and waste all that extra fuel?" crowd.

And, a 5hp splitter is all you need. 5hp/22 tons will split any piece of wood that you can possibly muscle up to it.

I've got a Brave Industries 22 ton splitter with the Briggs engine. I've had it now since 2001 when I bought it new, and I normally split 5-6 cords of wood per year with it. And I haven't found it any more expensive to maintain than your average push type lawn mower. In my experience, I've had nothing but good luck with the Briggs engines, on whatever piece of equipment they have been mounted on.

Soapbox off

 

[bjcsc]

I looked at every type of 3pt logsplitter (that works off of remotes) there is and could not find one with all the features I wanted. I wanted:

Horizontal/Vertical Capability
I-beam construction
Beam Running front to back, not side to side
Prince Valve
Cradles to catch split pieces
4way splitting wedge capable
Log stripper
Parking Stands to keep it off the ground

So, I made my own. In fact, I made 3 because I had to buy a 20' beam. I sold one last January, kept one for myself, and have the other one for sale. If you're interested, let me know. Here's a couple pics of what it looks like (behind the MF of the guy I sold one to) in case you may want to just build your own: