logging winch

[johnzski]

I have a Norse 390 on my JD 4310. very nice unit . I picked it over the Farmi because of the lower pull point of the winch. makes the tractor a lot less tippy; it will drag the tractor before it will tip. much easier to control

 

[schmism]

milemarker hydraulic winch run off the remotes

 

[6sunset6]

milemarker hydraulic winch run off the remotes

If that is a statement I agree
If it is a question the answer is yes.

 

[6sunset6]

Mile Marker Winch showed up today. UPS driver said man is that heavy.
Well packed. It appears many sizes ship in the same box. The ports are SAE 10
OSB . No paper work tells that and when I spoke to the factory they told me it came with fittings for JIC 6. Fittings must be in the Power steering controls kit that I don't need. Unit looks good. I ordered valve and some other parts from
Burden Surplus today.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I also have a small Farmi. I like the fact that it pulls from the top. It really helps when the tractor is backed to a rut or ditch or on a bank to have that upward pull when the log gets in close.
You will not pull the tractor over if you have the upper link adjusted so that the force is directed at the rear axel or below ( which means use the lowest
hole on the tractor end of the upper link).
The Farmi unit will definately not dissapoint you.

 

[tessiers]

Anybody have the 290 Norse? I've been wishful of one of those for a while.

Chilly

I've got a Norse 290 and I have nothing but praise for it. I run it on a JD 790 and That too is an excellent machine. I chose it over the Farmi for a couple of reasons one being cost although I would have spent the money if I thought I was getting a better product. Secondly I bought it from a logging supply dealer that I have done a lot of business with and will continue to. They gave me a good price, shipped to the local store for pickup and offered me a satisfaction garantee. I looked at them before purchase and they are well made and easy to work on if need be. I have run it through 2 seasons without trouble. I am also amazed at how powerful and quick it is. I thought about a hydraulic unit but when it comes to speed (rewinding 165' of cable how many times a day) nothing compares to the PTO winches. All in all 5 stars from me.

 

[Roy B]

I have an old braden " belly winch" , pins in to the drawbar and runs off a sprocket splined to the tractors pto shaft that drives a larger sprocket on the winch input. Barely had room but i could still fit a scrape blade on the 3pt, hung a big snatch block on the blade so that the cable was putting down pressure on the blade to hold the tractor ( 135 MF) in place. Engage the pto, pull a lever on the winch to start pulling, works pretty good, only problem, which i learned the hard way, once its pulling you cant disengage the lever on the winch, you have to step on the clutch to kill the pto. Still the whole rig cost around $500 and works great. Im thinking about building a brush guard of some kind cause i do alot of pulling downhill and sometimes a log will take off on its own, specially if its any bit muddy.

 

[easygo]

Bob,

I have been following the thread but I don't quite understand if you are going to run it off of a hydraulic remote on your tractor? How exactly is it going to be powered? You are talking about getting a valve. Is that a tractor remote valve or specific for the Mile Marker winch?

Edit: I missed an earlier post where you do say tractor remotes. Is the large GPM output of your tractor ok with the winch. I believe they mentioned a 3.5 minimum but no maximum GPM pump requirement.

I'm in the same boat. Logging winches are great but they are way too expensive.
I have been doing a combination of chains, two snatch blocks, nylon rope and drive forward system. It works but makes even more of a mess on logging roads because I have to drive over the same ground more as I pull the logs out to the road.

 

[6sunset6]

Bob,

I have been following the thread but I don't quite understand if you are going to run it off of a hydraulic remote on your tractor? How exactly is it going to be powered? You are talking about getting a valve. Is that a tractor remote valve or specific for the Mile Marker winch?

Edit: I missed an earlier post where you do say tractor remotes. Is the large GPM output of your tractor ok with the winch. I believe they mentioned a 3.5 minimum but no maximum GPM pump requirement.

I'm in the same boat. Logging winches are great but they are way too expensive.
I have been doing a combination of chains, two snatch blocks, nylon rope and drive forward system. It works but makes even more of a mess on logging roads because I have to drive over the same ground more as I pull the logs out to the road.

Boy there are so many threads here I lose track of my own.
I am going to run the Mile Marker winch off a rear remote already installed on my tractor. You could just leave it at that except for a couple of issues.
The tractor valve is not a motor spool. Motor spools when centered dump the motor ports to tank. Prevents damage to the motor from over running loads. Don't know if it matters for this application but I am not willing to take a chance. Second, although the Mile marker will allow free spooling out , if you do that then you have to walk back to the tractor to engage the winch.
I also think the 3.5 gpm is a max because they specifically mention that limit when powering out.
So what I am doing is buying a Vickers 10gpm 12vdc sping center motor control valve. Burden Surplus has them . The use a 2 channel 12dc gate opener to pick it A coil or B coil Spool in or spool out. The Mike Marker also wants a 1500 psi limit. If the tractor valve is tied back, and the QD are connected to the Vickers and the Vickers is spring centered then flow is to the tank at 7gpm and 2250 psi. Too much pressure and flow for the winch. So after the vickers I added a double cross over relief valve set at 1500 psi and in one leg after the relief valve to the Mile Marker motor I added a flow control valve that works in both directions, i.e. no check valve to limit the flow to 3.5 gpm.. So I can walk around with the remote control and make the winch spool in or out. I posted attachments of all these parts way back at the beginning of this thread. All the valves came from Burden. Winch came from Summit racing. Gate unit came from gatehouse supplies. I have about $1000 in this at the moment. Hydraulic fitting and hose looks like another $100. If I had a hose fitting crimper ($1400) it would be half of that.
I will get some pictures going when I have some of the stuff mounted. Right everything is sitting on a piece of cardboard while I figure out he fittings.
Oh yeah I am putting a back up alarm on spool in so If I let go of the button and it keeps going I will know.

 

[AndyMA]

I've had 2 Farmi's. My current one is a 501. There were both excellent. Comparing a real logging winch to a electric winch mounted on a plate is like comparing a backhoe on a BX to a 50,000 lb excavator. There just isn't any comparison as to capabilities.

Andy

 

[easygo]

Look what I found on Youtube! There is no mention of the particular way of the hookup but sure looks like similar setup to what you are building. He talks about a Mile Marker 105 winch being used.
YouTube - Three Point Hydraulic Winch on a Tractor First Generation
YouTube - Micro Logging with a hydraulic winch and 33hp New Holland Tractor
YouTube - oldboytoys's Channel

 

[MossRoad]

Look what I found on Youtube! There is no mention of the particular way of the hookup but sure looks like similar setup to what you are building. He talks about a Mile Marker 105 winch being used.
YouTube - Three Point Hydraulic Winch on a Tractor First Generation
YouTube - Micro Logging with a hydraulic winch and 33hp New Holland Tractor
YouTube - oldboytoys's Channel

In the time that guy took to pull that log out of there with that winch/snatchblock setup I think I could have weaseled my way down there with my little PT425, cut it in 3-4 sections with my chainsaw and dragged them out with a chain. How painfully slow!

 

[Treemonkey1000]

In the time that guy took to pull that log out of there with that winch/snatchblock setup I think I could have weaseled my way down there with my little PT425, cut it in 3-4 sections with my chainsaw and dragged them out with a chain. How painfully slow!

Yeah that was pretty slow. Maybe pretend you are 70 years old and that was out in a swampy area. Then that wouldn't be so bad. I do think winches would be nice to have. With that particular video I would have hooked up my ole Kubota L3750 via the snatch block to the log, then to my tractor and drove it until the log was up to the tree. That would save me a lot of time.

 

[MossRoad]

Yeah that was pretty slow. Maybe pretend you are 70 years old and that was out in a swampy area. Then that wouldn't be so bad. I do think winches would be nice to have. With that particular video I would have hooked up my ole Kubota L3750 via the snatch block to the log, then to my tractor and drove it until the log was up to the tree. That would save me a lot of time.

If I was 70 and that log was in a swamp, I'd leave it there! That's what kids are for.

 

[easygo]

I agree that it is slow and in that particular case you would have room to drive to the next town. BUT! When I'm in the woods and close to a soft muddy spot I sure would take the slow winch instead of having to drive into the mud several more times as I'm pulling the log to the road. Unfortunately that is what I have to do now.

Another thing I noticed that it sounds like his tractor is running at idle speed. I wonder if it was faster if he gave it just a little more throttle.
I'm shure 6Sunset6 will give us the answer to that as soon as he has his winch hooked up.

 

[GRNMAPLE]

That sound Good i am just wavering between brands..Frami .. Wallinsein ... Norse.
Guess it depends on availablity. Service & Cost.
I bought a 55hp Kioti now wonder if i should go up a model? Do you think 6500# is tough enough for Avg work?>

 

[tessiers]

My Norse 290 is about 6500 lbs and I am still amazed at how powerful it really is. I have an 8000lb winch on my truck for misc stuff and the norse seams to have more power, maybe its just my lack of patience. I hauled 1 pine log that scaled 980 board feet (36" small end 16, log) up an 80% grade with no trouble. It was in the late fall with a little frost and about 6" snow, and I did have to give her a little throttle but she did it. I had to cut the butt log into 2 - 10 footers she just wouldn't do a 42" 20 footer.

 

[magicheater]

I had a Farmi a few years back and logged a few semiloads of red oak out with it. Stout winch, had it on a 1600 oliver utility. When I got my Kubota L4350 I sold it and got an Implemac grapple w/5000lb hyd. winch. Had to install a joy stick in the back for all the functions but boy did it work out well. Being able to grab, go and drop logs with out all that ground work w/chains is sweet. It has the winch when you need to access logs you can't get to on steep hills or whatnot. It has the capability to heel the logs also so I use for cutting firewood as well. Logs up at waist height and out of the dirt. I am not sure Implemax is still in business but I sure love there grapple, believe I got the 48" unit.

 

[6sunset6]

It warmed up to 30d and I was out in my shop like a shot. Pictures say it all.
The winch mounting plate I took from my old electric 8000 # Warn, the one I was originally talking about trying to convert to hydraulic. Worked out really nice in fact the fair lead unit went into the same mounting holes. The winch is off set from the tractor center line by a couple of inches because I wanted to nest the winch in close and have nothing sticking past the carry all frame. My old winch was face mounted to the plate, the new hydraulic is bottom mounted. I was a little concerned but all the Mile Markers are mounted like that. I have all the fittings and hoses figured out. $$$ . I am taking this opportunity to convert all of my QD to male/ female on one side. Means I have to buy 4 Females but I think it will keep everything cleaner ,i.e. All unattached implements have the hydraulic lines connected to each other. The little square plate with the tape on it is the manifold block for the vickers valve. The vickers is shown in another picture. The 2 wire bullet conn and 2 hyd lines are the only connections to the tractor. I set the height of the winch so the pull point height is 2 " above the draw bar but still well below the center line of the axle. I bolted everything up because I have had everything on and off 3-4 times. Its much easier to drill holes in a drill press than with a hand drill. It really hard to get a big weldment into the drill press. Plus the carry all has ready made holes. I drill 9/16 diam holes for 1/2 bolts.
Next order fittings, work on guard. I think 1" EMT with sweeps and couplings for the curves. This assembly I will braze the joints after the fit is all done.
Also have to weld on an anchor foot. Something to dig in when pulling. This will be the last thing. Also a bar with slots to hook chains in to drag with and last someeking of box for chain saw etc. Cannot decide whether or not to cut off the carry all arms that go back. Think I will wait and see how it works.

 

[mwark]

Anybody have the 290 Norse? I've been wishful of one of those for a while.

Chilly

I've been using one for three years. This tool is unbelievable. I have moved some very big trees with this winch. I've also had a few near misses. You really want to slow down and think about what might happen if thing don't go exactly as your planning.

I bought mine lightly used, all in all a very good value.