whistlepig
Elite Member
Although not precise one can get a fair estimate of the heating and cooling costs in the spring and fall. When the windows are open.
Low utility bills with geothermal heat
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buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Some people with geothermal put in Web Energy Loggers to track the usage. Here is a sample page:
Web Energy Logger: By OurCoolHouse
whistlepig
Elite Member
Maybe an easier way to understand geothermal is in efficiency. If you are looking at a gas furnace that is 99% efficient the geothermal is 300% efficient on the same scale.
SuperCobra-- yeah, that's what I did, what whistlepig suggests: look over utility bills, and compare spring & fall usage with winter or summer, depending on your particular focus.
I found I was able to more or less isolate "normal" electric usage (whole house is electric- stove, washer, dryer, etc.) by looking at shoulder season usage, i.e., no heat, A/C or "it's dark at 5PM!!" lights.
Back when I did this, in 1988 or so, I found that my seasonal heat costs were just a bit less than the local folks who heat with wood-- about $350 for my 1800+/- sq. ft.
A year later, I found that if I purchased $150 worth of wood, cut, split & delivered (dry), I'd reduce my electric bills by the same amount.
It ain't the end of the world, but still a lot less than heating with oil or propane, at least in my area. Electric costs have certainly gone up, but I believe I still spend a lot less (a LOT less) than many folks around here for heat in the winter.
Interesting conversation when I got a telemarketing call about energy usage a while ago- "You use oil, right?" "No, I don't use oil." "Oh- then you use propane, right?" "No, I don't use propane." ....quite a long pause.... "So, how do you heat your house???" Followed by a long tutorial....
I found I was able to more or less isolate "normal" electric usage (whole house is electric- stove, washer, dryer, etc.) by looking at shoulder season usage, i.e., no heat, A/C or "it's dark at 5PM!!" lights.
Back when I did this, in 1988 or so, I found that my seasonal heat costs were just a bit less than the local folks who heat with wood-- about $350 for my 1800+/- sq. ft.
A year later, I found that if I purchased $150 worth of wood, cut, split & delivered (dry), I'd reduce my electric bills by the same amount.
It ain't the end of the world, but still a lot less than heating with oil or propane, at least in my area. Electric costs have certainly gone up, but I believe I still spend a lot less (a LOT less) than many folks around here for heat in the winter.
Interesting conversation when I got a telemarketing call about energy usage a while ago- "You use oil, right?" "No, I don't use oil." "Oh- then you use propane, right?" "No, I don't use propane." ....quite a long pause.... "So, how do you heat your house???" Followed by a long tutorial....
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Interesting conversation when I got a telemarketing call about energy usage a while ago- "You use oil, right?" "No, I don't use oil." "Oh- then you use propane, right?" "No, I don't use propane." ....quite a long pause.... "So, how do you heat your house???" Followed by a long tutorial....
That when you say, "I heat with dirt"
whistlepig
Elite Member
We "guesstimate" our heating and A/C at $50.00 a month. No matter how bitter cold it gets or hot it gets the electric bill varies only a few dollars. A month of single digit temperature with wind chills of well below zero will only make a couple of dollars difference in the electric bill. It's flat as Kansas here and the wind is brutal.
dex3361
Elite Member
- Joined
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- N. of Charleston WV
- Tractor
- Kubota L4400-1 HST,FEL, 3x3 remotes, TNT. BX1500 54 mmm
Did any of you figure how many years it takes to recover the added expense of installing a ground source heat pump. 23 years ago when I was down to installing a heat system in the house I looked at the ground source systems and the cost for a 8 seer 3 ton rheem was about $3200 installed and a ground source system was 2 times that much and that did not include the loop install. I just replaced the 23 year old rheem with a Goodman 14 seer with a scroll compressor. Oh the house is 2400 square foot mid entry.
Tig
Veteran Member
Interesting thoughts on open loop systems. Around here open loops systems have a return well or a drain tile about 5 to 7 feet deep. In theory all the water goes back to the ground. My last neighbourhood had lots of open loop systems. They do need a strong well. We can't put a loop in the lake nor can we take water, change the temperature and put it back. Either one would impact the fish habitat.
I had an open loop system in my last house and I'll put one in my new house next year.
A horizontal ground loop would be nice but there is no way the environment people would let me do that on my property.
I had an open loop system in my last house and I'll put one in my new house next year.
A horizontal ground loop would be nice but there is no way the environment people would let me do that on my property.
whistlepig
Elite Member
That is the major drawback to geothermal. It is very expensive to install. Payback on the investment is a serious concern.
Tig
Veteran Member
In 90 I bought a Rockton (installed as open loop) I forget the exact details but I do remember figuring it paid off in a year. The Rockton was a pretty simple machine. Cooling is passive, heat was 3:1 efficiency. That works up here. We typically only cool 10 days per year. When I put the house up for sale I replaced it with gas and took it with me.
