LPGS For Kubota B2910

[rswyan]

I would have the front blade close to the tires with implement raised.

Yeah ... I was thinking yesterday about how much clearance I have there. Need to recheck my measurements and clearances, before I finalize the configuration.

Get the cross frame members away from the blades as much as possible.

I see what you are saying now.

To get good results with a lpgs you need to be able to make a long drag without loosing traction.

I would agree ... if you are using it for "final smoothing" ... but it seems to me that it could be used for far more than that.

Now admittedly, it appears that you are doing this for a living (or at least commercially, for profit) and have some actual real-world experience on a professional basis ... and I'm just a noob ...

But I'm thinking that it's possible - assuming my tractor can pull it - that it could be used more for grading and leveling, rather than just "final smoothing" ... depending on how it's designed.

As you know, I'm contemplating adding a tailgate ... and I mentioned making it pin-able. It seems to me, that it wouldn't be all that difficult to make that tailgate hydraulically controlled as well ... although I don't know for certain what kind of force would be required to keep it closed - or hold it at a specific position partially open - while pulling a box full of dirt.

The practical reality is that while I would love to have a Top-Con laser set-up, it just likely ain't gonna happen for a while ($$$) ... adding a hydraulically controlled tailgate probably may be within the realm of possibility tho', in terms of the economics ...

But I'm speaking in terms of theory ... without much in the way of practical experience to back it up.

While you can raise the plane and regain traction (and forward travel) these "hickeys" show in your work as long bumps.

I would think that with small "bites", eventually, they just all go away ...

In terms of the viability of a commercial operation, it's a matter of minimizing the time spent/required to achieve an acceptable product.

If the size is correct for your tractor you can drive through without these interruptions.

That makes sense to me.

 

[rswyan]

4' of 1/2X4 flat bar (to mount your cutting assy. to) and a dozen or so holes and this would be adjustable and a non issue. I don't understand those that resist having the option to adjust the depth of cut. I move mine all the time for various jobs. I can drop them down several inches and "peel" sod off, or raise them 2-3" to spread new material dumped in spaced piles.

No resistance here ... well, not too much anyways ...

I actually spent some time last night looking over your build thread ... and studying your adjustment mechanism for depth of cut. Nice ... :thumbsup:

Seems to me tho', that that (depth of cut) is also something that could be set up to be adjusted hydraulically as well.

Although with a hydraulically-operated tailgate (and top-n-tilt), for me to take advantage of it, I'd have to add a 4th section to my Prince stack valve (or add another diverter)

Question, the 45* "laid back" cutting angle of the grader blade, what do you see as the advantage of this extreme angle? I've just never seen a road grader operated in such a manner.

Be interested in that as well.

My guess is that by setting it at such an extreme angle (as compared to how it's mounted on a motor grader) it would wear to the angle and (eventually) offer more cross-sectional area (diagonal)... which might make it last longer. Dunno ...

Nice score on the Ironworker BTW ... :thumbsup:

(I have lust in my heart for such things ... :laughing

 

[jenkinsph]

Yeah ... I was thinking yesterday about how much clearance I have there. Need to recheck my measurements and clearances, before I finalize the configuration.


I see what you are saying now.


I would agree ... if you are using it for "final smoothing" ... but it seems to me that it could be used for far more than that.

Now admittedly, it appears that you are doing this for a living (or at least commercially, for profit) and have some actual real-world experience on a professional basis ... and I'm just a noob ...

But I'm thinking that it's possible - assuming my tractor can pull it - that it could be used more for grading and leveling, rather than just "final smoothing" ... depending on how it's designed.

As you know, I'm contemplating adding a tailgate ... and I mentioned making it pin-able. It seems to me, that it wouldn't be all that difficult to make that tailgate hydraulically controlled as well ... although I don't know for certain what kind of force would be required to keep it closed - or hold it at a specific position partially open - while pulling a box full of dirt.

The practical reality is that while I would love to have a Top-Con laser set-up, it just likely ain't gonna happen for a while ($$$) ... adding a hydraulically controlled tailgate probably may be within the realm of possibility tho', in terms of the economics ...

But I'm speaking in terms of theory ... without much in the way of practical experience to back it up.


I would think that with small "bites", eventually, they just all go away ...

In terms of the viability of a commercial operation, it's a matter of minimizing the time spent/required to achieve an acceptable product.


That makes sense to me.

The point I was trying to make is simple. If the lpgs is too hard for you to pull you will have trouble smoothing out the ground in long even passes. Quality and appearance of the finished work will suffer.

My larger lpgs is 8' wide but the tractor is 60 hp. and weighs about 6,000 lbs. It can be a tough pull in some situations but generally is a good match. I will often move a large amount of material with the lpgs cutting down mounds and the like. So I do use it for more than just a finishing tool.

Virtually all the lpgs I have seen use an angle iron for blade mounting as well as a lot of box blades. This sets the face for the grader blade mounting at 45 degrees. By far the most common angle I have seen.

 

[Ford850]

I've been comparing designs on a lot of them, including the custom builds on here. Take a look at the Land Pride parts diagrams for some ideas. http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/303-268p.pdf
I noticed they changed their design of upper frame layout recently, bringing the rear cross support up closer to the front. They've made that upper frame more compact but it looks stronger. That creates a lot or open space above the blades, especially the rear one. You can also see how easy it would be to make the blades adjustable, as an assembly. They punch holes in the rear of the blade supports too, and sell blades to put on there so the LPGS can be used in either direction.

 

[rswyan]

The point I was trying to make is simple. If the lpgs is too hard for you to pull you will have trouble smoothing out the ground in long even passes. Quality and appearance of the finished work will suffer.

That's a fair point ...

My larger lpgs is 8' wide but the tractor is 60 hp. and weighs about 6,000 lbs. It can be a tough pull in some situations but generally is a good match.

Yup ... considerably larger unit than what I have.

What's the length on your LPGS again ?

I will often move a large amount of material with the lpgs cutting down mounds and the like. So I do use it for more than just a finishing tool.

Thanks for elaborating.

From what I had read of what you had written previously I was getting the impression that that was not the case.

My experiences with the B2910 is that I have generally tended to run out of traction ... before I run out of power. When I do run out of power it's probably because I have a tendency to run at lower rpms than I probably should, given the task.

It's my guess that it has significantly more power there than what I've tended to use ... the primary question in my mind is whether will have the traction.

With the shanks down and 5' box blade full of wet clay (heaped ... to the point where it's practically overflowing off the top of the back) there is an issue ... but I do have some ability to control that (raise rippers, change angle of attack, raise box blade, etc.)

Virtually all the lpgs I have seen use an angle iron for blade mounting as well as a lot of box blades. This sets the face for the grader blade mounting at 45 degrees. By far the most common angle I have seen.

Yup ... dunno that I've seen many that use something different.

 

[Ford850]

Jenkinsph, How does that ski shaped leading edge work for you, compared to the other shapes? I noticed most videos show the traditional 45* angle like Rswyan is building too, and they seem to plow more than skid.

 

[jenkinsph]

Jenkinsph, How does that ski shaped leading edge work for you, compared to the other shapes? I noticed most videos show the traditional 45* angle like Rswyan is building too, and they seem to plow more than skid.

Works very well, the common use for the small lpgs is in small landscape jobs. The rolled edge approach with the ski shape leaves less marking and plowing into the surface. Will definitely use it in future builds.

The rounded ends of the 8' lpgs skids works pretty well too and is better than a flat 45 degree I see on other designs. Less marking with the skids just results in a smoother overall appearance.

FWIW, Brian and I have both mentioned using the lpgs in reverse with good results. That is why the skids are symmetrical end to end.

 

[jenkinsph]

4' of 1/2X4 flat bar (to mount your cutting assy. to) and a dozen or so holes and this would be adjustable and a non issue. I don't understand those that resist having the option to adjust the depth of cut. I move mine all the time for various jobs. I can drop them down several inches and "peel" sod off, or raise them 2-3" to spread new material dumped in spaced piles.
Question, the 45* "laid back" cutting angle of the grader blade, what do you see as the advantage of this extreme angle? I've just never seen a road grader operated in such a manner.

I agree you can make a lpgs adjustable with the side plates and bolt holes. When offering advice on builds I try to work with the limited steel selection the member has. If they have the time and expertise there are several add on features that can be made. I would add the adjustable frame carrier to a new build with cam or hydraulic adjustments.


Motor graders handle material differently than a lpgs does. With a lpgs you are flowing the material over the blade while a motor grader or rear blade is holding or moving the material to the sides.

 

[Ford850]

FWIW, Brian and I have both mentioned using the lpgs in reverse with good results. That is why the skids are symmetrical end to end.

I've seen them used in reverse, but only for smoothing. That Land Pride option adds a set of blades to the back side of the angle irons so the LPGS would cut in both directions. It's not something I would need though.

 

[rswyan]

Just got back from Kidron where I checked out the angle.

Turns out the other stuff wasn't 4" x 4" x 1/2" ... it was 6" x 3 1/2" x 1/2", which should be fine I would think. The price was right ($0.26/ lb.) so I went ahead and picked up two 10' sticks. I think he even threw in the yellow paint for free ... :laughing: