LPGS For Kubota B2910

rswyan · May 1, 2016

jenkinsph said:
To clarify the above I meant that with the fingers both pointed down use the 8" finger to mount the blade the 4" should be to the rear and will not be as low to the ground. Maintaining the 45 degree angle is more important as the blades are all ground and set for this same angle.

Got it ... :thumbsup:

rswyan · May 1, 2016

Talked to my neighbor earlier and he thinks he might be able to hook me up with some cutting edges. He'll check in the scrap dumpster tomorrow when he goes into work ... :thumbsup:

rswyan · May 1, 2016

Just talked to the guy from Craig's who had the angle. He still has it ... also turns out he's got a bunch of 4 x 4 x 1/2 as well.

Even mo' better ... :grin:

rswyan · May 2, 2016

Figured I better come up with a definite plan before I get too carried away so I modeled it in formZ.

Side view in transparent wireframe:

Couple of hidden-line perspective renderings:

Some dimension info:

Overall width: 77"

Overall Length: 60 1/2"

Width inside the side plates: 72"

Length of side plate runners on ground: 54"

Setback of 3PH pins from front of frame: 15 1/2"

Setback of 3PH pins from front of side plates: 12 1/2"

Setback of first cutting edge from front of side plates: 13 1/2"

Distance of 2nd cutting behind first cutting edge: 24"

Can already see one thing I'm going to change, to shift some the weight towards the front ...

bcp · May 2, 2016

Looks good, but is there any way you can increase this tight space everything has to pass through? Thinking of grass and other clumps, but if you use it in bare dirt or gravel it may not matter.

Bruce

rswyan · May 2, 2016

bcp said:
Looks good, but is there any way you can increase this tight space everything has to pass through?

Yup, sure can ... good thinking on your part ... :thumbsup:

I was trying to tie it together at common/shared points for rigidity, but offsetting it a little shouldn't matter all that much.

bcp said:
Thinking of grass and other clumps, but if you use it in bare dirt or gravel it may not matter.

I think given the choice, I'd rather be prepared for the possibility, rather than not.

Thanks.

jenkinsph · May 2, 2016

I would move both blades forward to allow clearance for trash and to allow the front blade to dig in when needed. Everything else looks okay.

That will be a hard pull for your tractor.

rswyan · May 2, 2016

jenkinsph said:
I would move both blades forward to allow clearance for trash and to allow the front blade to dig in when needed.

Say 3" mebbe ? (the little squares in the side view are 1/2")

jenkinsph said:
Everything else looks okay.

Thanks.

I may still do a little tweaking to see if I can shave a few lbs off here and there.

FWIW, max rated weight for the heaviest rear implements shown (backhoe, boxblade) for the B2910 is 800 lbs ...

jenkinsph said:
That will be a hard pull for your tractor.

Yup, sure could be ...

I was encouraged by tractorworks' comments that he was pulling a 6' wide GradeMaster behind his B2910 tho' ...

Granted though, I'll bet this one will probably weighs a few pounds more ... but who knows ? (GradeMaster doesn't list their weights)

jenkinsph · May 3, 2016

rswyan said:
Say 3" mebbe ? (the little squares in the side view are 1/2")

Thanks.

I may still do a little tweaking to see if I can shave a few lbs off here and there.

FWIW, max rated weight for the heaviest rear implements shown (backhoe, boxblade) for the B2910 is 800 lbs ...

Yup, sure could be ...

I was encouraged by tractorworks' comments that he was pulling a 6' wide GradeMaster behind his B2910 tho' ...

Granted though, I'll bet this one will probably weighs a few pounds more ... but who knows ? (GradeMaster doesn't list their weights)

I would have the front blade close to the tires with implement raised.
Get the cross frame members away from the blades as much as possible.

To get good results with a lpgs you need to be able to make a long drag without loosing traction. While you can raise the plane and regain traction (and forward travel) these "hickeys" show in your work as long bumps. If the size is correct for your tractor you can drive through without these interruptions.

Rustyiron · May 3, 2016

jenkinsph said:
To get good results with a lpgs you need to be able to make a long drag without loosing traction. While you can raise the plane and regain traction (and forward travel) these "hickeys" show in your work as long bumps. If the size (and ground conditions)is correct for your tractor you can drive through without these interruptions.

4' of 1/2X4 flat bar (to mount your cutting assy. to) and a dozen or so holes and this would be adjustable and a non issue. I don't understand those that resist having the option to adjust the depth of cut. I move mine all the time for various jobs. I can drop them down several inches and "peel" sod off, or raise them 2-3" to spread new material dumped in spaced piles.
Question, the 45* "laid back" cutting angle of the grader blade, what do you see as the advantage of this extreme angle? I've just never seen a road grader operated in such a manner.