Mahindra Max 26XL HST - A New Owner's Journal

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Hope this thread will be of interest to others buying their first tractor.

Well, the new tractor finally came today. Watched him lift everything off the trailer, wincing at every clank and knowing that was ridiculous. Asked for a quickie lesson on the controls, as the manual is a little, shall we say, opaque.

PRE-CHECK: Make sure parking brake on, everything else off, low, slow, or neutral, and implements down.
START: Clutch Down, Glow Plug On, Glow Plug Light goes off, turn to start. Easy.
RUN: Increase engine speed to 1500, Lift FEL off ground and curl up slightly, Lift rear implement a little, Release parking brake, and go.
RUN UNDER LOAD: Increase engine speed to 2500.
STOP: Stop, Parking brake on, Engine speed back to idle, Lower FEL and rear implement to the ground. Turn off. Easy.

Job one, box blading the parking area, which was very overgrown with grass. Took a couple tries to get the teeth at the right depth for ripping. Also adjusted the knob that controls the lift/lower speed on the 3-point to slower, which seemed to give more fine control. After a couple ripping passes, removed the teeth and did just a quick smoothing pass. Took a few minutes to get used to feathering the control to get a smooth result versus my tiny garden tractor w/ box blade. The tractor did a great job in less than an hour.


Couple of observations:

Having never driven a real tractor I was intimidated by the size when shopping and test driving. I followed the advice here to buy UP a size and it felt like riding a brontosaurus at first, but I'm already getting used to it, which is a big relief. I will say honestly I was worried I would never feel comfortable on it.

The filled tires make a HUGE difference in how stable it feels when operating (tires were not filled during test drives). I believe this has helped my comfort level a lot. Fully endorse!

One thing I noticed is the 3-point-hitch lift control does nothing for the first 3 inches or so when lifting, and then of course the same on the last 3 inches when lowering. It's a big implement; maybe with a smaller implement that wouldn't be the case.

Big adjustment is the 3-point always being in float. The electric sleeve hitch on my garden tractor has the option of down-pressure.

Parking area before:


Parking area after:

 

[ThirdMan]

They do look bigger at the dealer then on your property. Does Max 26XL have position control on the 3pt or just up and down (i.e. can you return it to the same height every time)?

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

They do look bigger at the dealer then on your property. Does Max 26XL have position control on the 3pt or just up and down (i.e. can you return it to the same height every time)?

There are "stops" you can set. See pic:

 

[RNeumann]

Nice enjoy the machine! I’m betting the 3 pt control will either work better with time and experience and or need some adjustment. The above post is correct up or down a little with the lever should move the implement accordingly.
Thx for sharing

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Details:

New 2018 Max 26XL 4WD HST with FEL
Mahindra attachments:
5' Heavy Duty Box Blade
5' Standard Duty Landscape Rake
5' Heavy Duty Tilt and Angle Scraper Blade
Rear tires filled w/ WW fluid

Price out the door: $16,669

Also, forgot to mention, there was a surprise on the trailer! A set of pallet forks. Turns out my business partner went and got those for me as a gift.

On the way: A Piranha tooth bar.

 

[BlackOps]

nice! did a great job too! i am glad your dream came true!

 

[mike69440]

They do look bigger at the dealer then on your property. Does Max 26XL have position control on the 3pt or just up and down (i.e. can you return it to the same height every time)?

Position control, and the 3 Pt is stronger than may larger tractors.
However the Loader and 3 Point do not have the fine touch of some premium tractors.

 

[mike69440]

Details:

Also, forgot to mention, there was a surprise on the trailer! A set of pallet forks. Turns out my business partner went and got those for me as a gift.

On the way: A Piranha tooth bar.

After you have used the Piranha tooth bar a bit, I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like your thoughts on how it work.
My bigger tractor is tough to use on my trail. My excavator can only squeeze down half of the trail, thus my Max does most of my trail maintenance.

I could barely lift one end this crate of over 1,700 lbs of metal roofing, but my forks let me move large square bales that were under the green tarp.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

After you have used the Piranha tooth bar a bit, I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like your thoughts on how it work.
My bigger tractor is tough to use on my trail. My excavator can only squeeze down half of the trail, thus my Max does most of my trail maintenance.

I certainly will. Trail maintenance (and creating some new ones) is a big part of my work. Plus garden work. And dirt leveling. The Piranha bar will be important for all of those.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Day two.

It was threatening to thunderstorm every 15 minutes today, though it never came. So I didn't start the rest of the grading. Plus needed to go the Southern States to get more cotter pins and corn for the deer. So instead I decided to detail the tractor.

I like to do this for any new piece of equipment, even if I'm not planning to keep it pristine on a regular basis. One, you go over every inch of the equipment and really get to know it (dang there are a lot of grease zerks on this thing). Two, you notice any scratches, areas that are starting to rust, lines/wires that are hanging or in danger of being pinched, etc. Three, applying some kind of protective coating helps keep it in good condition.

I like Mequirs and have a good selection already for the cars. Rather than a paste wax (which seems like too much fuss for outside equipment) I like Mequirs "Quick Detailer" which is intended to be a "between paste waxes" treatment. You just wipe it on, easy, and it applies a polymer coating that makes the rain bead up and lasts quite a long time. So it's some protection against sun, rain, dirt, and bird poop and really shines it up too. Also, you can pretty much use it on everything, including the console, controls, seat, floor mats, etc. So you don't have to worry about getting the wrong product on the wrong surface. I do use their "PlastX" for the light lenses and clear dash lens. I drew the line at blacking the tires but am still considering it.....

Just one day of box blading has me convinced I need at least a hyd top-link so will try to put that in motion on Monday.

Life is good.

 

[Wagtail]

Have you been 'around' the tractor and tightened/torqued the wheel nuts... if anything, for piece of mind? The same for any nut/bolt you can find, greased every grease nipple (zerk) and spray lubricated everything that moves but doesn't have a nipple?

Fluid levels correct?

Any colour tractor provider, when preparing/wetting-up for delivery can miss stuff.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Have you been 'around' the tractor and tightened/torqued the wheel nuts... if anything, for piece of mind? The same for any nut/bolt you can find, greased every grease nipple (zerk) and spray lubricated everything that moves but doesn't have a nipple?

Fluid levels correct?

Any colour tractor provider, when preparing/wetting-up for delivery can miss stuff.

Going to buy a torque wrench today. Or a set of them. Metric I assume.

All zerks are oozing thick grease; assume that means they're full.

Lubrication: I read to put Fluid Film on the hyd cylinders. Is that right? As for other moving parts, WD40 or something else?

(Maybe someday tractors will be as low-maintenance as newer cars are.....)

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Day three.

Doing my duty.....going through all the pre-operation checks. Congrats Mahindra on the placement of the engine oil dipstick--not! Anyhow, after wrestling the side panel off, checked the oil 5 times (COLD) and the level is definitely a half-inch ABOVE the full mark. The red arrow shows the oil line:



Is this a problem? (I know with a car, this would be bad.)

 

[radios1]

Day three.

Doing my duty.....going through all the pre-operation checks. Congrats Mahindra on the placement of the engine oil dipstick--not! Anyhow, after wrestling the side panel off, checked the oil 5 times (COLD) and the level is definitely a half-inch ABOVE the full mark. The red arrow shows the oil line:

View attachment 559875

Is this a problem? (I know with a car, this would be bad.)

it's bad only if you want the tractor to last a long time..

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

So should I drain some of the oil?

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Looks like day 3 is a bust while I try to figure out if I need to do something about the excess oil. Saw quite a bit of difference of opinion on the many older threads about this issue.

 

[Wagtail]

Looks like day 3 is a bust while I try to figure out if I need to do something about the excess oil. Saw quite a bit of difference of opinion on the many older threads about this issue.

Yep, this is what I meant by going around the tractor... although to find excess oil/fluid is (IMHO) unusual, especially as you've already been running/using the rig and the oil has had time to circulate into all of those internal nooks & crannies. Draining a bit off, then checking the level (cold and ensure that the tractor is on a level surface) won't be that much of a bother..

As to non-grease-gun lubrication... WD40 is fine or 'Fluid film'. I use an Aussie lanolin based spray lubricant. I spray stuff like the 3PH arms, the parking brake elements, the mechanical parts of my 3PH quick-hitch, the collars of the female hydraulic couplers and, especially, the splines of the PTO... for ease of sliding on/off an implement shaft and as a rust inhibitor. Spray lubricating isn't an everyday procedure; I do it once or twice a year when I remember to do it.

Torque wrenching only pertains to what your manual stipulates/suggests for your wheels and, perhaps, your FEL. Other than that, you can simply go around the tractor (and implements, for that matter) with a set of ratchet heads or dedicated spanners (17mm is typical) and just ensure that any bolt/nut is snug/tight. You don't have to 'crank' on them, just see if they move and, if so, tighten that one up. Make a note in your manual as to the nut/bolt size for future reference.

Do it again when you hit the 50 hour mark (the tightening/torquing routine) on top of your scheduled maintenance.

 

[radios1]

Looks like day 3 is a bust while I try to figure out if I need to do something about the excess oil. Saw quite a bit of difference of opinion on the many older threads about this issue.

drain the excess oil, you never want to go over the fill mark!. the oil can foam up, and get air in it, which don't lubricate properly.. you can notice this effect quicker on an automatic transmission, overfilling that quickly makes it slip, as it quickly wears out..

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Removing the oil:

Remove drain plug. Won't a lot of oil come pouring out?

Remove oil filter, dump oil and replace. Same concern as above.

Couldn't I just unscrew the oil fill cap and use a clean, new turkey baster to suck out the extra oil?

Also, given it takes 4.4 quarts of oil total, given the 1/2 inch extra, are we looking at around 1/2 quart extra?

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Yep, this is what I meant by going around the tractor... although to find excess oil/fluid is (IMHO) unusual, especially as you've already been running/using the rig and the oil has had time to circulate into all of those internal nooks & crannies. Draining a bit off, then checking the level (cold and ensure that the tractor is on a level surface) won't be that much of a bother..

You sure were right about that!

Yes it had run for about an hour the first day. But was cold and level when checked, 2 days later.

Just talked to dealer and he says they normally fill 1/4 inch above full line because new diesels will burn a little oil during break-in. He is going to call me back.