Making a cap w/ pics

[Knight]

Regal, Have you done any sound deadening to the inside top of cab, like upholstery?

 

[Redneck in training]

Regal, Have you done any sound deadening to the inside top of cab, like upholstery?

http://www.armacell.com/www/armacell/armacell.nsf/ansHTMLSeitenLookUp/USA-TI_Frame?OpenDocument

That is the stuff we use in chemical plants for sound mitigation. Click on Industrial, Marine & Petrochemical Solution and then on Arma Sound RD Acoustic Insulation or Arma Sound Industrial System.

 

[Regal]

Regal, Have you done any sound deadening to the inside top of cab, like upholstery?

Not yet on this cab. Tried regular cab lining foam rubber with the perforated fabric on my last cab and it does make a difference. Never did a decibel test though.

 

[Redneck in training]

http://www.armacell.com/www/armacell/armacell.nsf/ansHTMLSeitenLookUp/USA-TI_Frame?OpenDocument

That is the stuff we use in chemical plants for sound mitigation. Click on Industrial, Marine & Petrochemical Solution and then on Arma Sound RD Acoustic Insulation or Arma Sound Industrial System.

The plumbing or refrigeration contractors use 2" mats from Armacell to sound isolate heat pumps or compressor from the floor.

 

[Knight]

Regal,
I don't understand the side or "c" which is called class clearance has to do with this install. The right side middle?

 

[Regal]

"C" in this case, means the space between the edge of glass and edge of sheet metal. This is how much smaller the glass needs to be than the opening in the sheet metal. 5/16" on all sides for this particular rubber. This rubber also comes as 1 piece, with the locking strip attached. You just zip it in. Other choices can have the locking strip come as a separate piece. This one was not too bad zipping it in. Just had to use lots of soapy water for lube.

 

[Knight]

OH! I get it now, the little piece sticking out is the attached zip piece.thanx

 

[bandit67]

Nice job on both of your cabs, guys.

Man, I really need to get some welding gear, then start practicing. All the quality time I could be spending with the tractor out in the garage when not working it. Of course, my wife thinks I spend too much time working on the property with the tractor as it is.

 

[JohnDeere4300]

Not gonna hi-jack Knight's thread, just letting him know what I used for latches etc.
I will start one on my project before too long.
Rick

Are you getting close to starting that thread???...you did a great job on yours and a few people wanting to see it

We didn't want you to hi-jack Knight's thread....He has done a great job also

 

[Knight]

I checked out the cost of safety glass and it wasn't as much as I thought it would be.
I was quoted $60 for a 2x2 cut piece.


Windshield:
I need to make a 3/16" frame to hold the glass. At first I was using metal, but now I am considering using 3/16" lexan glass for the window border to frame.
This means I could cut a full windshield out of lexan and install it.(screw it right to the 2" window frame) Then later cut out my glass and install it into the lexan. It will plenty strong since it about only 1" wide around the sides. If I like it it stays, if not I put glass.
Lexan can be painted as well.

 

[Regal]

The regular lexan can be painted. But if you happen to use the scratch resistant it has a silicone coating that paint won't stick to. The last cab I made, I used scratch resistant and sanded off the coating around the perimeter for a boarder and painted it. It sort of worked but still would tend to peel.
Use a solvent based paint to eat into the plastic. I think Krylon works.

Hows it coming????

 

[Knight]

Work is picking up, so I have to get out there and do my electrical jobs.(Electrical contractor)
I have doors, and windshield lexan. I will post a pic as soon as a make a litle progress. Still looking at door handles. Stopped by to re-look at your previous post about latches.
Do you have a good pic you can post of the latch inside and out? Thank You, Bill

 

[Regal]

Not real good pics of my latches but here they are. I added a block of Polyethylene on the inside as a spacer for the striker to lock behind. The pipe you see was added for an inside grab handle as well as to stiffen up the door. It had a lot of twist due to the narrow area that I had to mount it on. I should have made a wider door handle area but didn't think far enough ahead. When I closed the door, you could flex the handle forward and back. The grab handle made it ridged and latches very secure now.
Where you are using square tube door frame, you should not have the same problem needing to add support.
Rick

 

[Knight]

Regal... thanks for the pics, I like the grab handle, you can get it different places as the door opens and shuts.

I bought a 3 x 4 carpet mat and glued the rubber backing to the inside of the top to lower the noise level in the cab. It seems to work well.

I have the frame painted up and installed the lexan glass.

 

[Regal]

I like the grab handle, you can get it different places as the door opens and shuts.

I like my grab handle. You need something to hang onto as your climbing in anyhow. This just allows you to pull the door closed behind you as your getting in. Smooth.

You frame looks great. Was wondering what your plans may be for the back. I see you have a hoe on there. Will you make a removable rear window or like a roll-up inside? Also, was looking back through the posts, great jod bending that square tube with conduit bender. Never would have guessed it would work. Will keep that trick in mind. Did you reeeeelly have to lean into it to make the bends?
I also like the carpet mat. Great color match too.

 

[Knight]

Carpet, $17 Home depot
Square tubing bending easier than 1/2" conduit. Just like bending conduit, keep good foot pressure.

Plans for the back keep changing. right now, I like the flexible lexan glass. I can bend right angles. I also see a soft back for a cab with plastic window for a $100 bucks. But I think I will use lexan.

Working on the garden right now. It started raining while I was tilling. The top and windshield worked great.

 

[WilliamBos]

I'm up in the air about glass/acrylic and what to use. I really want glass, because that will make the cab look better in the long run.
Anyways, I have the doors framed. I am ordering lift off hinges from
McMaster Carr.

Oh, I forgot to mention.......I have bought no materials for this project. I used a squat rack for the cab top, and pieces of metal I had laying around.
I did buy a new bandsaw, The one in the last picture was replaced. I gave that saw to a friend.

What size, thickness, is that square stock? We like your design so much, we are going to customize it in ways for ours!!

 

[Knight]

I used 2" square stock. The whole cab can be taken apart in minutes. For example, in the summer, I will use the top and windshield only. For snow plowing I will install the doors, and back side (back side is not started).
It was easier to work on in stages.

 

[WilliamBos]

I used 2" square stock. The whole cab can be taken apart in minutes. For example, in the summer, I will use the top and windshield only. For snow plowing I will install the doors, and back side (back side is not started).
It was easier to work on in stages.

Thanks. We are doing the same. And what size pipe bender did you use??

 

[Knight]

I used a 1/2" EMT bender on the 1/2" square stock used on the doors.
That is the only place I bent square stock.

I started skinning the doors today with lexan glass. It shapes to the contours easily.