Metal Cutting Saw

[J_J]

As far as the kick back, a lot of saws have anti-kickback apparatus, and it is self explaining. The kickback pawl is on the backside of the blade guard.

My only point is the way the blade cuts into the material.

This excerpt is from a Sears 10 in radial arm saw manual.

The cut is then made by pulling the carriage forward
until saw blade cuts through the work. When the cut
is complete, the saw should be returned to the back of
the radial arm and the switch turned "OFF".

It doesn't say anything about an option to push cut.

Although some of you can and will do it.

I don't intend to argue about this.

There is the right way and your way.

Do what you will. Those broken carbide teeth coming back at you might get your attention.

Totally not true: You said

Pulling a radial arm saw thru the wood is the number one reason people get hurt with this type of saw.

Rules are rules, and if you disobey, you might suffer the consequence.

 

[bcp]

An article and a thread about pushing or pulling:

Should You Pull or Push Your Radial-Arm Saw? Woodworking Power Tool Safety

RAS --- Push or Pull - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum


Bruce

 

[muddstopper]

I read the articles, but it does make things more confuseing. In the pic I posted, off and actual radial arm saw, it plainly says to not cut from one end. On this saw, that end as the saw is in the pic, would be pulling the saw thru the wood. So that means what exactly. Further reading also the point was made that pulling the saw thru the wood could cause the saw to climb out of the wood and more or less, launch like I said toward the operator. Then it went on to say to properly use, you should pull the saw thru the wood, but keep a slight push to hold the saw back. I suppose the push to hold the saw back is intended to keep the saw from climbing and launching, I dont know. What I do know for a fact cause I have done it, pulling the saw thru the wood to make a cut can cause the saw blade to launch dangerously toward the operator. With that said, I also read about the proper type of blade to use on a radial saw would be one with a negative rake. Since I bought my saw used, I dont know what kind of rake the blade has and that could very well be what caused my saw to act like it did. Acting like it did, launching the saw toward me is the very reason I have it stuffed in the back of the shop not being used. I still think it is one of the most dangerous saws I have ever used.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Two of my brothers-in-law were also contractors in southern California. The three of us didn't agree on much, but we all agreed the radial arm saw was dangerous, and we all three set them aside as soon as the motorized miter boxes came out. And it is dangerous pulling or pushing. The main danger pulling is the "climb up and jump at you" motion. You should have a negative hook blade and everything properly adjusted, but it will still happen if the blade runs into a dense spot or gets a bit pinched in front. The main danger pushing is lifting the workpiece and throwing it and maybe part of you too across the shop. A workpiece clamp is good to have either way. As for ripping, I only tried it once, and it was so scary that I bought a table saw the same day. Hope all have a very happy New Year.

 

[Papasmirf]

J_J has a lot of the right answer: the antikick back pawl assembly. Secondly get the instructions, read and practice when the saw is turned off to gain a little experience, but last, put it out into the street and let the garbage truck take it or run over it. Serious

 

[BukitCase]

I don't disagree with much of anything that's already been said, but I'd like to add -

I've been using a Sears 12" commercial radial saw off and on since 1973, and have only had a couple of slight scares in the process - both were "climb-overs", both could have been avoided if I'd NOT gotten in a hurry, NEITHER resulted in any broken/bleeding body parts.

Climb cuts need to be taken slow enough to let the blade do its work, or the saw WILL try to climb the material. Things to keep this from happening are a sharp blade with negative hook, NOT trying to pull (or allow the saw to come out on its own) faster than the blade can cut.

A properly maintained saw will have a carriage stop at the end of the arm so it can only travel so far.

One of the best pieces of advice I ever got (don't remember where, but NOT in the manual) is "NEVER cross your arms" - just think about what would happen if you were trying to hold the RIGHT end of a board with your LEFT hand and the saw kicked back.

Before I got a table saw, I would occasionally rip with the radial - I only tried it ONCE without adding a full face shield and leather welding jacket to the process - it wasn't that it was so scary, just irritating having all that crap blown back in yer face - still, haven't used the RAS for ripping since the table saw arrived.

Speaking of which, ask any 10 table saw owners to show you 10 fingers without having to hold at least ONE up TWICE - unless they ALL are rich enough to buy a SawStop, there's a pretty good chance it won't happen.

Granted, I'm probably one of the most "****" guys I know, and I have friends that I wouldn't let use the RAS - sooo, like anything, they're not for everybody. I'm personally gonna keep mine, which is why I bought a second one cheap to mod for a "radial plaz" instead of using the one I already had.

I think the bottom line is this, and I try to live by it (since I'd like to live a while longer) - even a simple screwdriver can KILL you if you don't hang your "stupid" hat at the door when you come in the shop - add power tools to the mix, and you can get it over even quicker.

And no, I'm NOT calling anybody stupid, nor am I recommending you use any tool you don't feel safe with. Only that ANY tool is safer and works better if you do your best to understand its correct, proper and SAFE use and don't get distracted EVER, no matter WHAT tool you're using.

Wishing all a happy and SAFE New Year... Steve

 

[Redbug]

I have an Evolution SteelSaw and an array of the different blades. For me and what I do...this saw is well worth the money. It cuts through angle iron and pipe like it's wood.
Evolution Power Tools STEELSAW1 7-1/4-Inch Steel Cutting Circular Saw - Amazon.com

 

[Papasmirf]

I have a Dewalt that is a vicious saw. When I bought it the dealer took his and very slowly cut 1" plate. I've cut /2" and this puppy is a bad...!

 

[muddstopper]

BukitCase, I own a table saw and Have used it to build the cabinets in the house I live in now, as well as the house I used to live in. I use it all the time on projects. I still have all ten fingers, but I really think its more thumbs than fingers sometimes. I actually bought the RAS because I thought it would make cutting those long cross cuts and angles a little more easier. This is the first RAS I have owned or used, and most likely will be the last. The thought of making a metal saw out of it sort of captured my attention, but I really think your ideal of adding a plasma cutter to the saw is probably a better ideal. Right now, I dont have any plans to do anything with the saw. I intend to see the end results of your's and the OP conversions, before I do anything. I still believe to cut metal with a saw blade, it will probably be safer to push the saw thru the metal instead of pulling it because of climbout, and I dont think making long rip cuts is a good ideal at all. Pushing the saw and supplying adequate clamping to keep the metal on the cutting bed should work. One thing that might help would to be make a skid, like on a skill saw, that could be adjusted to rest on top of the metal as its being cut. This should keep the metal from lifting off the saw table and make the RAS work similar to a skill saw on a rail.

 

[Willie B]

A wonderful idea, I've had one for years, didn't know what to do with it, now I do. My local welding supply had a 10" blade for cutting mild steel meant for abrasive saws. I wonder how it would work?