MF1533 SyncroShuttle has no PTO power

[RayIN]

Results of search: how to flush a tractor hydraulic system at DuckDuckGo
I would never use anything to flush a closed system but hyd oil, there is no way to remove all flushing liquid, so the new oil will become contaminated if anything but hyd oil is used. Allow to drain until all dripping stops completely.
I'd use a cheap hyd oil to flush the closed system, might even try to push out remaining fluid by pressurizing the transmission/diff with low pressure compressed air, replace filter.
As to water entering, make sure all shift levers have good sealed boots in place. There's no way to prevent condensation from forming in the transmission/differential, so the hyd oil will never stay pristine. Thus the mfgr recommendation to replace fluids per schedule.
If you don't have a drain pan with enough capacity; I cut down a plastic 55G drum, they hold a bit more than 1G per inch of height. Mine is 12" high.

 

[rScotty]

I'd flush repeatedly with a very high detergent low viscosity motor oil. My reasoning is that you know regular motor oil is far better than the water mix that was in there, and nothing in the motor oil will hurt the hydraulics. In fact, a number of commercial JD machines use motor oil as their hydraulic oil. Castrol and several others used to make a flushing oil which was basically a 10 wt motor oil with lots of detergents. The detergents bind with the water - that is what makes it miky.
and keeps the water from damaging things. Good trans/hydraulic fluid can soak up a lot of water..
Ultimately milky trans/hydraulic fluid will saturate and begin to form strings of milky goo which clog the filter. Check if you have a transmission cleanable strainer "pre-filter". Some older Japanese tractors did, others didn't.

Since you know that the problem is water in the hydraulics, my feeling is you want to get as much of the old out as you can...and trans//hydraulic oil - although better - is just too expensive for repeated flushing.

With that much water in the system, you will probably need to replace the O rings on the lowering speed valve and likely on the 3pt piston as well. The 3pt cylinder can usually be cleaned and honed enough to work if it has rust spots.
rScotty

 

[bearthebruce]

I have the same tractor... with no weight on the 3 point, the arms will remain up for a very long time. With the engine off and the lever in the full down position, put your foot on the arms and use your weight to move them down.

On that fluid, I would be flushing that several times. It should not look like what was in your photo.

You also have fluid in the front axle... I would open and drain that too.

You will need to bleed the air from the steering pump.

If you need a service manual, I have a pdf of it. PM me and I will give you a link to download it.

 

[frighten102]

For anyone tracking this, I'm still working on it.

I've gotten new oil (getting AGCO 821 XL from the local dealership was WAY cheaper than Amazon!) and filter (had to use ebay as dealer was out but ebay was nearly same price).

I disconnected the FEL cylinders and flushed them best I could (manually pulling them in/out with hoses in a small container of fresh oil). I also used air compressor to purge as many of the lines as I could.

I put in 8-9 gallons of oil and don't see anything on the sight glass. I saw someone post that it took them 10 gal to see it. Anyone else w/ a 1533 see different?

I'll have to bleed the air from the lines. Hoping I don't blow oil everywhere in the process (any more than I already have). After that, we'll see if that cures the original symptoms w/ PTO and 3PH. Followed closely by a rotating out this oil.

 

[frighten102]

I changed the topic to reflect latest symptoms (now PTO is the only issue).

Bled the air (both sides of the pump and all of the cylinders) then ran the MF (pun intended) awhile.

All ranges and gears check out.
FEL does everything it should.
3PH - let's say I've figured out my controls and it probably wasn't ever a problem (IO error = Ignorant Operator).
PTO still not turning (under power) (but does turn by hand while in N). I still can't see oil in the sight glass. I'm dang near certain I added 8.5 (per manual). I can add more but I'm wondering if that amount (even if a little low) would cause 'zero' PTO turn - seems it'd at least turn slow (but weak?).

As I'm typing now, I remember that the PTO lever (N to 540) changes super easy and I forgot to check that connection.

Anyway, if the update keys anyone in on the issue or more things for me to check, I appreciate the feedback.

 

[Dmacleo]

does the 1533 use an electric clutch like the 1532 does?
on the 1532, tractor off key on pto levers (not pto switch) in N shaft will spin by hand.
put the 540 lever into gear (still tractor off key on and pto switch off) shaft will not turn by hand.
if like a 2010 MF1532 any electrical fault with lever in 540 and engine/pto on shaft MAY spin but was underpowered as electrical clutch was not fully engaged.
no manuals on hand right now so can't help much, just a thought.

 

[DarkBlack]

1533 should have the same fluid capacity as my 1540, which is , if I recall correctly ( check my previous posts on it) is about 11 gallons with the loader attached.
On your PTO .. you probably have an electric push button and maybe an additional rotary switch? Maybe do a quick check on your fuses, and make sure it’s not blown (and present)

 

[frighten102]

1533 should have the same fluid capacity as my 1540, which is , if I recall correctly ( check my previous posts on it) is about 11 gallons with the loader attached.
On your PTO .. you probably have an electric push button and maybe an additional rotary switch? Maybe do a quick check on your fuses, and make sure it’s not blown (and present)

DarkBlack, you just made a point I'd not thought of before: The 'Operator Instruction Book' says the 1533 and 1540 should have 8.2 gal in the transmission but, that does not account for the extra fluid needed for the 1525 FEL. Looking around I haven't found (in this book or online) any mention of how much additional oil the FEL needs. I guess 'keep filling to 1/2 the sight glass" is the guide.

Thanks

 

[frighten102]

does the 1533 use an electric clutch like the 1532 does?
on the 1532, tractor off key on pto levers (not pto switch) in N shaft will spin by hand.
put the 540 lever into gear (still tractor off key on and pto switch off) shaft will not turn by hand.
if like a 2010 MF1532 any electrical fault with lever in 540 and engine/pto on shaft MAY spin but was underpowered as electrical clutch was not fully engaged.
no manuals on hand right now so can't help much, just a thought.

Dmacleo, The Operator Instruction Book says clutch is "single stage dry with 9.4 inch disc".
Your description in lines 2 and 3 is same with mine.
The PTO switch does turn on the dashboard PTO light, I'm not aware what else it does.

 

[frighten102]

I have the same tractor... with no weight on the 3 point, the arms will remain up for a very long time. With the engine off and the lever in the full down position, put your foot on the arms and use your weight to move them down.

On that fluid, I would be flushing that several times. It should not look like what was in your photo.

You also have fluid in the front axle... I would open and drain that too.

You will need to bleed the air from the steering pump.

If you need a service manual, I have a pdf of it. PM me and I will give you a link to download it.

bearthebruce, thanks. PM sent.