Subsoiler adventure
- Thread starter daugen
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cttractor
Silver Member
That is almost identical to what I was describing that I used to lay cable. Great find!
jnjpream
Gold Member
The pipe laying attachment they show in the video is just like what I did with $10 at HD. For laying 1" poly pipe you can get 1 1/2" plastic conduit (Sch 40 PVC) from the electrical isle. A long sweeping 90 elbow and a couple 45s to get the depth. I welded a strap to the back of my subsoiler, slid the conduit through the strap until the flared end hit the strap and put a hose clamp on the pipe just below the strap.. That allowed the conduit to turn and follow me through turns, and the top 45's allowed me to just lay the pipe out along side where I wanted it so it would feed nicely. Sure beats battling a trencher from the rental shop then having to back fill.
Ran out to the garage and got a picture..
Ran out to the garage and got a picture..
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jnjpream
Gold Member
Oh and for getting the pipe started I drilled a hole in a 1" poly pipe plug and put a 1/2" eyelet through it. Then I drove a piece of rebar through the eyelet into the ground to anchor it. If you don't have enough room to get the pipe to depth while moving, you can just dig a hole at depth then anchor the pipe in the hole and start pulling from there. I dug a hole for a valve box and anchored/pulled from there.
Baby Grand
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I think that piece works like a lever on the shear bolt, magnifying the force if an immovable object is struck and keeping the top link from bending.
OP
daugen
Epic Contributor
these pictures and diagrams are super, thank you. I know what to do, and since I don't know how to weld, yet..., I'll get out my biggest drill and put a hole in the subsoiler to attach the conduit pipe. not sure I'd leave it on all the time, looks like a rock might figure out how to rip it off, but boy this looks almost easy once the set up is done.
As an overall sanity check, if laying pipe/cable in rocky ground, this method inserts the the cable on top of/around any rocks. Over time that probably won't do the cable/pipe any good. I understand the ditchwitch method where you dig a big trench, and back fill it with diminishing size gravel/fill, so at least no big stones are initially pressing up against anything. This is much, much easier, but is there a long term compromise with this method? Compromise is ok, just want to know if anyone has had the pipe/cable break in what they thought was too short a time. Thanks. The benefit of experience here is wonderful. Drew
As an overall sanity check, if laying pipe/cable in rocky ground, this method inserts the the cable on top of/around any rocks. Over time that probably won't do the cable/pipe any good. I understand the ditchwitch method where you dig a big trench, and back fill it with diminishing size gravel/fill, so at least no big stones are initially pressing up against anything. This is much, much easier, but is there a long term compromise with this method? Compromise is ok, just want to know if anyone has had the pipe/cable break in what they thought was too short a time. Thanks. The benefit of experience here is wonderful. Drew
cttractor
Silver Member
My power cables have been underground for over 20 years with no problems. I haven't buried any pipes yet, so I can't comment of that.
OP
daugen
Epic Contributor
I think that piece works like a lever on the shear bolt, magnifying the force if an immovable object is struck and keeping the top link from bending.
I think so also. One of the bolts is smaller, not grade, and looks like it would provide shear protection if the main piece pivoted. btw, the other bolts don't have hash marks on them, but rather just numbers, which I don't remember.
The bolts are pretty heavy, no complaints, but just wondering why grade 5 or 8 bolts weren't used. Is there another way of designating grade bolts by a numbering system?
When I unpacked the box, out fluttered a one inch square Made in China, 10 pcs. piece of paper. So my Kentucky plow has Chinese bolts? Groan.
I think so also. One of the bolts is smaller, not grade, and looks like it would provide shear protection if the main piece pivoted. btw, the other bolts don't have hash marks on them, but rather just numbers, which I don't remember.
The bolts are pretty heavy, no complaints, but just wondering why grade 5 or 8 bolts weren't used. Is there another way of designating grade bolts by a numbering system?
When I unpacked the box, out fluttered a one inch square Made in China, 10 pcs. piece of paper. So my Kentucky plow has Chinese bolts? Groan.
jnjpream
Gold Member
As for rocks, the ploy pipe is fairly forgiving but not bomb proof. With this setup if you have to lay another pipe to replace a broken one it doesn't leave much of a mark on the lawn. Just drive over the slit to push it back down and in a week you won't know it was there.
I typically make one pass w/o the pipe to clear the path of big rocks etc and to ease the next pass when I actually put the pipe in the ground.
I typically make one pass w/o the pipe to clear the path of big rocks etc and to ease the next pass when I actually put the pipe in the ground.