Mock up of my splitter I'm building

[Scooby074]

On the wedge.

I was going to go with a euro style vertical knife, mostly for the "slicing" ability with a 4 way behind it. This 4 way would just look like a T and be hydraulic. Using the hydraulics you could pull the cross of the T right down to the top of the I beam allowing for a 2 way split.

However, when I built mine, I crossed the Euro knife with the North American wide, wing wedge. So the first 1.5-2" of my wedge is knife and the last bit is narrow wedge. Its only 2" wide at its widest part. My hydraulic 4 way rides over the main wedge. I can raise the cross blades high enough to allow 6" - 8" wood to go right under and get a 2 way split. If I have something particularly gnarly and large diameter, I can simply pull the pin and take the 4 way right off to get maximum splitting force. That hardly happens. Maybe once per day of splitting if that.

One other thing on the wedge is I made a stepped wedge design. 2-3" above the I beam I stepped the main wedge back a couple inches. This makes most of the splitting force concentrated right at the I beam (the strongest point). Once the wood is cracked down low, by the time it hits the remainder of the main wedge, the force required is extremely reduced. This saves twisting both the I beam and bending the main wedge in the direction of push.

 

[muddstopper]

Scooby, If you look at the pic of my splitter, I think you will see that we both went in a similar direction with wedge design. My blade is 3/4plate, 30in long, 12in wide. To this I added a 4way, except I welded instead of making it removeable. These wedges are about 3in behind the edge of the main vertical splitting wedge. Each side of the 4way is 7in long giving me a total of almost 15in of cross way splitting. On this, I choose to use the narrow width because I was afraid if I used a longer 4way wedge, I would always be bumping into it. Hind sight I should of made the 4way a couple inches wider on each side. I centered the 4way where on full extention I can 4way center split a 2ft dia log. At full retraction, I still have 12 in of straight blade for a single split. I can raise the blade to full extention and slide a 12in log under the 4way. Looking at the backbone support for my sliding wedge I had to add guide rails to support the wedge as it slides up and down. This does increase the wedge width to around 2 1/2 in in width, so I guess in a way I do have small wings on my wedge design. Really though, this is moot because by the time the split reaches this small area of the wedge, it hardly ever touches those guide plates.

I built my splitter to accept a 5in bore cylinder, thinking I might have problems splitting 4ways with the 4in cyl that is currently on the splitter. I found this to not be true. I have yet to find anything that causes my splitter to bog the least bit. I am considering building another wedge to change out the one I currently have. This wedge will be similar to the current one except I will be adding 2 more side wedges, making it a sixway wedge. At this point, I might have to go with the 5in cyl, but I aint buying until I try it with what I already have. I will keep the current 4way to swapout when splitting smaller wood. My blade just lifts out so its a easy swap.

Right now the biggest complaint I have with my splitter design is the fact I built it thinking I would go with the 5in cylinder. The 5in cylinder is 2 in longer in lenght the the 4in cyl I am currently using. Same length stroke, just longer overall. Because of this, my 4in cyl stops about 2 inches before it reaches the wedge. Occassionaly I will have a stringy piece of wood that wants to dangle from the wedge instead of falling all the way off. Not a big problem, I just throw on another stick and run it thru the wedge. Problem is the dangleing wood interfers with the raising and lower of the wedge. I am considering just adding a couple of 2in pieces of tubing to the pusher, just tack welded in place, to shove the wood all the way thru the wedge.

 

[davedj1]

Just a little update, I ordered some weld in bungs , pump and adapter from Surplus Supply so hopefully in the next few days I can start getting some things finalized. Stay tuned!

 

[Bday]

What do you guys figure you will have in cost of building your own splitter?

 

[davedj1]

I'm sure you could buy one for less money but for me it's the satisfaction of building what I want. If, and it's a big if, I were to buy one it would cost way more than I will have in the one I'm building. I will have a log lift, larger motor with a bigger pump and fast cycle times. For me, I will have far less in this one than if i were to buy one set up the way I want it.

To answer your question, to date I have about $650.00 in it, the beam was a freebie, I bought the cylinder's and tank used for 150. The motor from HF with a 20% off coupon was 219, pump, adapter and bungs are about 275. Axle and tires were left over from a previous project that got trashed.

 

[Maxwelshouse1]

I picked up this project a couple month ago for $300! I'm going to retrofit this to run a totally different way. I hope to make it a horizontal splitter, pushing out the back, with a 4 way adjustable wedge (capable of reverting to simple two-way wedge). I want the 4 way wedge adjustable, but not sure I want to spend the money and hastle of hoses for the simple lift/fall of the 4-way wings. Likely, I will simply put a pointed pin and drill (light) marks to "hold" the wedge up to I-beam. (For optimal height for log round). I will use my extra $/hoses/cyl for possible log lift. I hate to be out in the mountains and break a stupid hose for the wedge lift. Simple is good-in my book.

I will keep the axle and have purchased a heavy 4x12 beam to mount the 6" cylinder x20", valve, 22gpm pump, and a Honda engine I thought this was a great deal! The engine is 9hp Honda gx270, which should be a larger. I will likely purchase upgrade down the road. Additionally, I have found a 20 gallon drum to give susbstancial hydraulic fluid.

 

[Maxwelshouse1]

View attachment 295307
I glean from the ideas on this board, youtube, and google photos! Great ideas, and input! Thanks!

I picked up this project a couple month ago for $300! I'm going to retrofit this to run a totally different way than the previous owner who basically got it going, but shut it off because it "squeeled." I think it was simple combo of hydraulic tank too low and underpowered engine. But I think it has great "components" to start with! he had heart! Funny though-the chevrolet flywheel as the "butt" to the vertical Lol!

by both raising the tiny 5 gal tank, and raising the pump/motor I was able to build some presure. Several leaks, and the hydraulic cylinder attempts to lift. No good way of welding the rod to the "guide." The wood knocked my welds loose as I cut into rounds. Thus...Ibeam/ sled for cylinder is better (I think). Yes, larger tank is in the planning.

I'm going to take this splitter in a completely different direction: I hope to make it a horizontal splitter, pushing log rounds out the back, with a 4 way adjustable wedge (capable of reverting to simple two-way wedge). I want the 4 way wedge adjustable, but not sure I want to spend the money and hastle of hoses for the simple lift/fall of the 4-way wings 4". Likely, I will simply put a pointed pin and drill (light) marks to "pinch" the wedge up to I-beam. (For optimal height for log round). I will use my extra $/hoses/cyl for possible log lift. I want to get this up and going, and also worry about breaking a hose for such a simple function. Simple is usually good-in my book.

I will keep the axle and have purchased a heavy 1/2 thick 4x12 beam to mount the 6" cylinder x20", valve, 22gpm pump, and a Honda engine I thought $300 was a great deal! The engine is 9hp Honda gx270, which should be a larger. I will likely purchase via craigslist upgrade down the road. Additionally, I have found a 20 gallon drum to give susbstancial cooler hydraulic fluid.

 

[Bday]

I'm sure you could buy one for less money but for me it's the satisfaction of building what I want. If, and it's a big if, I were to buy one it would cost way more than I will have in the one I'm building. I will have a log lift, larger motor with a bigger pump and fast cycle times. For me, I will have far less in this one than if i were to buy one set up the way I want it.

To answer your question, to date I have about $650.00 in it, the beam was a freebie, I bought the cylinder's and tank used for 150. The motor from HF with a 20% off coupon was 219, pump, adapter and bungs are about 275. Axle and tires were left over from a previous project that got trashed.

I had a friend I was going to maybe build one for, if he could save some money. Didn't want to spend more of his money, if he could buy one cheaper. I know where your coming from as far as building your own equipment. Nice to say," I built that."

 

[muddstopper]

Its really hard to estimate a price for building your own. If you have to buy all new parts, its easy to come up with a parts/price list. If you are like most of us that like to scrounge the scrap yards, cost can vary greatly just according to what you can find and how good you can haggle.The splitter I built mostly with free stuff. Not exactly free, I did buy the parts at one time or the other, but most of it was laying around no longer being used for what it was purchased for. I have about $300 or so in hoses and can easily say that was my biggest out of pocket expense at the time of the build. My Hbeam was given to me. The cylinder I took off my old dump trailer. The splitter valve I had bought new over 20 years ago, just never had used it. The control valve for the 4way wedge I gave $10 for and took it off an old trencher. The engine I took off my old hydroseeder I had scraped. The engine I bought new only a couple of years earler and cost then was around $2000. It was just laying around and I could have never sold it for what I paid for it so, on the splitter it went. The pump, I picked up out of the dirt at the scrap yard and they gave it to me. The pump Mount I did buy from Surplus Center for about $90, The lovejoy coupling was another $75, simply because I had to buy the large size to fit my 1 7/16 shaft on the engine. The Axle is a old boat trailer I got for free. I just refabbed the trailer so I could mount the hbeam. Most of the steel I picked up here and there for free. Its easy to see that if I figured up all the cost to build using new materials and parts, I would have several thousand dollars in my machine. Since I had most of the expensive stuff already and got a lot of stuff for free, I am only out of pocket about $5-600 to do the build.

 

[davedj1]

Not much of an update but at least I made some forward progress. Got the bolt holes drilled for the engine, got my adapter and pump along with the bungs. I have my hydraulic tank ready to go now. I built a little receiver sideways at the front of the beam so the jack can be turned sideways when not needed. If I remember I will take some pics. I need to find the money to order my valve, that's about all that is holding me up right now.

 

[davedj1]

OK, time for an update. I don't know how to edit the title of the thread to add "new pics"
I started bolting it together this morning, still waiting on valve and hoses and half a love joy for pump.
I ended up going with a 22 gpm pump. If it doesn't work out I'll either get a bigger motor or a smaller pump.

 

[Scooby074]

Looking good.
:thumbsup:

 

[boxorox]

Looks good how thick I beam did you use my neighbor gave me 3 pieces of I beam ONe is 7feet long is that long enough. more pics please its awsome

 

[mangus580]

Posted this in Scooby's thread, but I will add it here too...

Here is what I just did to my wedge. It used to be a drop on wedge from Northern Tool. I hated it.

Here is what it looks like now....



It seems to work very good now. You will notice the cross part of the wedge is back a couple inches from the main point of the wedge. This allows the first split to happen before it hits the cross, thus making it not bog down as much.

Videos....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4NHS5C3wSI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-Dvn7aHsNM

 

[davedj1]

Thanks for the kind words.

Nice Mangus. How far off the beam are your horizontal wedges? I don't mine having some smaller splits mixed in, I'm too old to lift on the heavy stuff.

boxorox, I think 7' will be long enough if you go with a 24" stroke cylinder. Mine is 30" stroke.
The beam is 5" x 5" x 3/8" thick. Some people have warned me about it twisting. I ran it by my local fab shop and they seem to think it will be fine. If I notice it twisting or flexing too much I will address it ASAP. I'm hoping that with the knife for the wedge it will just slice right through most wood.

I almost forgot todays update. Decided to use the old valve that came with the stuff I bought originally, I picked up the other half of the Nova fitting for the pump, a 3/4" swivel 90 and a 1/2" swivel 90. I'm going to get it running without the log lift temporarily. Maybe tomorrow!

 

[mangus580]

Nice Mangus. How far off the beam are your horizontal wedges? I don't mine having some smaller splits mixed in, I'm too old to lift on the heavy stuff.

Centered top to bottom, which I think makes it 4"

I dont mind the smaller pieces either. I have kids to move the wood ;-) not to mention I am moving to a pallet system here this summer, which will minimize handling. I prefer to keep the wood manageable, so the wife is willing/able to feed the fire....

 

[davedj1]

Well I'm very dissapointed. Got her all up and running today and it extends at a snails pace but retracts like lightning! LOL Hs no power extending either.
I did have some fluid coming out of the end of the cylinder so I pulled it apart, now I need to find either someone to rebuild it or buy a new one.
I'm also wondering if the valve is the culprit, could it be bypassing in one direction? It seems to me if it was a bad cyl. it would bypass in both directions, not just extend.
the valve I have is an old cross, spring to center, no detents. I took it apart but didn't see any replaceable wear items so I put it back together.
Anyone know of a hydraulic shop in the Albany NY area? The only one I knew of went out of business.
thanks,
dave

 

[whitepine2]

Posted this in Scooby's thread, but I will add it here too...

Here is what I just did to my wedge. It used to be a drop on wedge from Northern Tool. I hated it.

Here is what it looks like now..

View attachment 303260

It seems to work very good now. You will notice the cross part of the wedge is back a couple inches from the main point of the wedge. This allows the first split to happen before it hits the cross, thus making it not bog down as much.

Videos....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4NHS5C3wSI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-Dvn7aHsNM

I watched your Video and I think if you were to add to your plunger on the outside two spacers so as not to touch the wedge itself but could by-pass it it would clear the splits better. I did this with two chenille laid flat for strength. I think a wider table at wedge would hold bigger splits and make it easier
to re-split you made a nice splitter but I think it could be better,not telling you what to do just saying
Whitepine2

 

[plumbstraight]

Here is my system for lifting the heavys. The T knife keeps the block in one piece just taking two off the bottom.

 

[mangus580]

Well I'm very dissapointed. Got her all up and running today and it extends at a snails pace but retracts like lightning! LOL Hs no power extending either.
I did have some fluid coming out of the end of the cylinder so I pulled it apart, now I need to find either someone to rebuild it or buy a new one.
I'm also wondering if the valve is the culprit, could it be bypassing in one direction? It seems to me if it was a bad cyl. it would bypass in both directions, not just extend.
the valve I have is an old cross, spring to center, no detents. I took it apart but didn't see any replaceable wear items so I put it back together.
Anyone know of a hydraulic shop in the Albany NY area? The only one I knew of went out of business.
thanks,
dave

Sorry to say I dont know any in Albany, but I do know of a great one in Rochester....

I watched your Video and I think if you were to add to your plunger on the outside two spacers so as not to touch the wedge itself but could by-pass it it would clear the splits better. I did this with two chenille laid flat for strength. I think a wider table at wedge would hold bigger splits and make it easier
to re-split you made a nice splitter but I think it could be better,not telling you what to do just saying
Whitepine2

I agree with what you are saying. Both have actually been discussed since I made the wedge change. I will say that the wood being split in the video was extremely stringy. I really need to learn to not fight it, and just drop another log on to push it through.

After seeing some of the other builds, I am considering an outbound table as well.