more power

   / more power #41  
They never told me what the rating was; all they said was they got as much HP as they could with what they were allowed to do. Maybe RickB can add to this as all diesals have some adjustment. All I asked was to get as much HP out of the engine; they said they could do it. I assume they put the dyno on it and adjust ( tune) it till it gets the highest HP. For all I know it could be 29.1 HP. They said I would notice a little more smoke; and it does smoke more than I remembered before doing it. Also; as for warranty; the dealer did the warranty work. Do you think he would do anything he was not allowed to do? Also; anything he did do, I think would not be told to CNH!
 
   / more power #42  
dqdave1 said:
They never told me what the rating was; all they said was they got as much HP as they could with what they were allowed to do. Maybe RickB can add to this as all diesals have some adjustment. All I asked was to get as much HP out of the engine; they said they could do it. I assume they put the dyno on it and adjust ( tune) it till it gets the highest HP. For all I know it could be 29.1 HP. They said I would notice a little more smoke; and it does smoke more than I remembered before doing it. Also; as for warranty; the dealer did the warranty work. Do you think he would do anything he was not allowed to do? Also; anything he did do, I think would not be told to CNH!

What great feedback a dyno test would be!

If it is as easy as my past JDs, it would take a couple of minutes to
loosen a couple nuts on the FI pump and rotate it a fractional degree or
two in either direction. Another neat thing about Diesels (vs. gas engines)
is you can optimize the power output for a particular engine RPM, the one
you usually use when operating the HST, or the RPM at which the PTO
runs at 540.

I would think that making such a fuel timing adjustment should not void
any warranty, unless it is way out of spec. And I doubt the factory sets
it at the optimum position and verifies it with a dyno test, but they
COULD.
 
   / more power #43  
dqdave1 said:
Do you think he would do anything he was not allowed to do? Also; anything he did do, I think would not be told to CNH!

Dunno, he might. I hang around some truck diesel forums, some dealers sell and install chips, and do warranty work on them(the truck). Some will not install the chips and one of their first checks is for a chip, if one found the engine and some drivetrain warranty is voided and it's noted in the national computer(that every dealer sees). I can't recall the name but there is a law that says they can't void the whole truck warranty. the power window motor has nothing to do with the engine.
 
   / more power #44  
dfkrug said:
What great feedback a dyno test would be!

If it is as easy as my past JDs, it would take a couple of minutes to
loosen a couple nuts on the FI pump and rotate it a fractional degree or
two in either direction. Another neat thing about Diesels (vs. gas engines)
is you can optimize the power output for a particular engine RPM, the one
you usually use when operating the HST, or the RPM at which the PTO
runs at 540.

I would think that making such a fuel timing adjustment should not void
any warranty, unless it is way out of spec. And I doubt the factory sets
it at the optimum position and verifies it with a dyno test, but they
COULD.

Yep, dyno is the only to tell for sure.

You can adjust diesels for a different RPM but there is a limit. We use to take continious duty diesels rated at 2300rpm+/- and put them on gen sets running at 1800rpm. This required a new pump setting and a governor weight change. Lighter weights if I recall. In this type of Bosch pumps the weights were small fist size (the pair). On the smaller 2 and 1 cylinder diesel, they use a piece of flex metal, sort of looks like 2 fingers(a piece sign).

I think my L has this type of governor, I'd have to refer to the manual.

On the engines I worked on they factory did set each pump with the capillary tube, same as they trained us. I'm not sure how they tested the FI pump like on our small tractors. The injection pump and the governor are separate pieces. The seals and fuel stops are actually on the front cover of my L, unlike the all in one Bosch pumps.

You can see the wire and lead seal.
 

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   / more power #45  
RobJ said:
Yep, dyno is the only to tell for sure.

You can adjust diesels for a different RPM but there is a limit. We use to take continious duty diesels rated at 2300rpm+/- and put them on gen sets running at 1800rpm. This required a new pump setting and a governor weight change. Lighter weights if I recall. In this type of Bosch pumps the weights were small fist size (the pair). On the smaller 2 and 1 cylinder diesel, they use a piece of flex metal, sort of looks like 2 fingers(a piece sign).

I think my L has this type of governor, I'd have to refer to the manual.

On the engines I worked on they factory did set each pump with the capillary tube, same as they trained us. I'm not sure how they tested the FI pump like on our small tractors. The injection pump and the governor are separate pieces. The seals and fuel stops are actually on the front cover of my L, unlike the all in one Bosch pumps.

You can see the wire and lead seal.

I see the lead seal in your photo. My Yanmar inj pump did not have that
kind of adjustment available externally, as I recall. I guess the lead seal
is so the dealer can tell if you have been changing settings?
 
   / more power #46  
dfkrug said:
I see the lead seal in your photo. My Yanmar inj pump did not have that
kind of adjustment available externally, as I recall. I guess the lead seal
is so the dealer can tell if you have been changing settings?

Correct, sort of like the seal on your power meter. Did you know you could remove them, flip them 180 and they'll run backwards? They use to. :D Remove the seal and they get nervous.

I promise I'm not making this stuff up!! :D

To add, the pump on my L is just an injection. the rack on the pump connects to the gov control. Sort of a dumb pump.
 
   / more power #47  
RobJ said:
Correct, sort of like the seal on your power meter. Did you know you could remove them, flip them 180 and they'll run backwards? They use to. :D Remove the seal and they get nervous.

I promise I'm not making this stuff up!! :D

I heard that about the power meters. Never tried it myself. Where is
MythBusters when you need them?

Odometers are often said to run backwards, too, but it never worked
for me!
 
   / more power #48  
dfkrug said:
I heard that about the power meters. Never tried it myself. Where is
MythBusters when you need them?

Odometers are often said to run backwards, too, but it never worked
for me!

Not the new ones anyway....not that I've ever tried. :D

Heck my 1990 F-150 you could just slip the cable out of the speedometer. On my 1999 Ford SD it's electronic, just the white/gray wire in the....well nevermind. :D :D

The power meters did work, I think the new electronic ones prevent it. I don't even think they "read" the meter anymore. The signal either goes up the power line or is a RF feed to a drive by car. Our water is RF and they drive by.
 
   / more power #49  
dynasim said:
It is more than the spring. The whole driveline is designed within the limits of the maximum torque available from the HST. If you change the spring, you change everything. I guess the NH engineers should have had some guts, and just set the spring higher, and then beared the brunt of the failed axles, gears, u-joints, and casings. Imagine the thanks they would have received for doing so!! I'll bet they are sorry for missing that opportunity!

What is funny is that I am in no way discouraging the fella from doing whatever.

I am sorry I could not help.

Have a warm evening, as it snowed here today(the first real one of the year). It was refreshing.

Chris
Well, what I meant was to design the HST for the higher HP and turn it down for the lower HP by lowering the relief setting. The only difference there would be the added cost of the larger HST - and that wouldbe moderated by the savings of not having to design and maintain stock of 2 totally different transmissions. Coupling the HST to the different sized final drives would be trivial if designed up front.
Also, marginally off subject, all driveline parts are pampered by an HST in comparison to gear. The use of a more powerful bigger heavier engine is much more of a down stream strength issue in a gear due to the huge transient torque loads that can be generated by inertia in stalling. This is a situation totally controlled in a HST to a limit set by the relief pressure. Uncontrolled torque spikes cant happen with HST unless the relief fails closed.
larry
 
   / more power #50  
The available HST gear ratio is infinite, except that limited by the pressure. I can travel 0.1 mph(or less) with the tractor at full power. The lowest speed on a gear tractor is typically 1 mph. I could pull a train with a chain with the my small HST. Most gear drives can't provide the torque to get the train started. In essence, the appliable torque(to the ground) is significantly higher for and HST than most gear systems.

Impulse loads are a different subject, and I agree that the HST is much better at handling them(that is why I ignored the simplicity=reliability argument when choosing my tractor). However, the clutch system provides impulse protection as well, and clutches are designed with that in mind.

As other have said, it would be interesting to get the chain, and have a pulling contest.

Chris
 

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