My Diesel Storage and Transfer Set-up

LBrown59 · Mar 5, 2008

Should the fuel filter be on the inlet side or the outlet side of the pump?
Or does it really make any difference which side you put it on?

== L B ==

patrick_g · Mar 5, 2008

bialecki said:
The caddy was $370, the nozzle and 14' grounded fuel hose were $35, the pump was $69 and the fittings were $25. I didn't expect to spend so much but before you knew it I was into it for $500. However I a recouped $30 because I filled the tank when diesel was $2.50. (LOL)

A few years ago I stood out in the heat and humidity at a farm auction and bought a 300 gal overhead diesel tank on a stand for $75. The tank is in good condition and has served me well. There were other tanks in even better condition that went for less but I was late and missed out. I had to replace the hose and nozzle and added a good filter to the output of the tank. So far I am over 5 years of trouble free service. and just had it filed for the third time (over $800.)

I wish I had an auto shutoff nozzle but those are not for a gravity system with low head. Doesn't take all that long to dispense less than 10 gal for my Kubota so until the law of gravity is repealed (never know about politicians) I will do OK.

Pat

LBrown59 · Mar 5, 2008

patrick_g said:
A few years ago I stood out in the heat and humidity at a farm auction and bought a 300 gal overhead diesel tank on a stand for $75. The tank is in good condition and has served me well. There were other tanks in even better condition that went for less but I was late and missed out. I had to replace the hose and nozzle and added a good filter to the output of the tank. So far I am over 5 years of trouble free service. and just had it filed for the third time (over $800.)

I wish I had an auto shutoff nozzle but those are not for a gravity system with low head. Doesn't take all that long to dispense less than 10 gal for my Kubota so until the law of gravity is repealed (never know about politicians) I will do OK.

Pat

Meaning between the pump and the tank not the pump and the nozzle~Correct?

lovemytoys · Mar 5, 2008

i would put it between the pump and the nozzle.so if there is any metal coming off the pump do to wear and tear it doesnt make it to the tractor

PitbullMidwest · Mar 5, 2008

LBrown59 said:
Meaning between the pump and the tank not the pump and the nozzle~Correct?

There is no pump, it's gravity fed. The filter is between the tank outlet and the nozzle.

lovemytoys · Mar 5, 2008

LBrown59 said:
Meaning between the pump and the tank not the pump and the nozzle~Correct?

he has a pump

patrick_g · Mar 6, 2008

If you have a pump to deliver the fuel then the filter should be down stream of the pump not upstream. It does make a difference. Some pumps can't forcefully inhale but can forcefully exhale so a restriction in the output side is preferred.

I have a gravity system and I installed my replaceable cartridge filter with clear plastic body at the output of the tank and connected the hose going to the nozzle to the output of the filter. I get several gal/min of flow from gravity but still would like an auto shutoff nozzle so I could be checking oil and such instead of standing there squeezing a lever and having to remain alert as there is a very short time window between seeing the level in the tank and overflowing.

Regarding welding on a tank that has had combustibles in it. I have done this several times with never an explosion.

One way if the tank is small enough is to fill the tank with water (except for a few ounces) and rotate it so that the part you are welding on is at the very highest location. The few (VERY FEW) ounces of air you allowed will rise to the top so the part of the tank being welded is not actually "underwater" and can be welded.

To have an explosion requires fuel and oxygen which in an empty tank is easily the whole tank volume as a bomb. With all the tank full of water except a few oz there is not enough fuel air mixture to be a problem.

Another way I have done it is a variation on another posters comment. I wouldn't "waste" a bunch of argon but CO2 is fairly cheap. Sources for CO2 include, dry ice from Wal*Mart or wherever, a CO2 extinguisher, or a CO2 bottle such as used for some welding. I personally used the dry ice approach. Dry ice (solid or frozen CO2) sublimates, changing directly from a solid to a liquid, skipping the liquid phase.

You put dry ice in the tank and seal off all the holes except one which you will position the tank to allow the hole to be at the highest position. Stick a little plastic hose into the hole and seal the hole up (masking and or duct or ?? tape) so the hose is the only exit for any air or CO2. Put the end of the hose in a container of water ( a used plastic cup from a fast food place or whatever.) As the CO2 goes from solid to gas, since it is heavier than air, will sink to the bottom of the tank and the air and any fuel fumes in the tank will be forced out the little plastic tube.

The dry ice turns into many many times its volume of CO2. When the little hose quits bubbling you can double the little hose back on itself to seal it and secure with a rubber band of spring clamp or ??? Now there is no available oxygen in the tank so there is no way to "ignite" the fuel vapors if any. Welding on the tank now can proceed with no risk of an explosion.

I'm not saying you can't do the same with argon but dry ice is way cheaper (as is bottled CO2 like for a soda fountain or beer dispenser) and does just as good. You don't have to wait for all the dry ice to become a gas but you need to be assured that enough CO2 gas was produced to more than fill the tank. You do not want to physically disturb the tank while the CO2 is purging the air from the tank. After the air is purged you can reposition the tank, bang on it, weld on it or whatever as with no air (O2) in the tank there can be no ignition of fuel fumes.

Pat

Pat

LBrown59 · Mar 7, 2008

MoyieMike said:
This is exactly what I have been looking for and have gone as far as to order the equipment from Northern to build. Can you tell me what lengths all of the 3/4" nipples are? Thanks. P.S. Brand new subscriber so if I didn't do this right - please help.

Did you get this built yet ?
What fitting did you get to go from the tank to the pump and the tank and the suction tube inside the tank?

I can't seem to find a fitting that will work for this anyway anywhere.

bialecki · Mar 7, 2008

LBrown59 said:
Did you get this built yet ?
What fitting did you get to go from the tank to the pump and the tank and the suction tube inside the tank?
I can't seem to find a fitting that will work for this anyway anywhere.

LBrown59, if you are referring to the setup that I have shown on the first page, the tube coming out of the tank is a welded tube that is a part of the Fuel Caddy. It has 3/4" NPT threads and I simply threaded the ball valve onto it. If you are using a tank there is a fitting that mounts through a hole that you created in the tank. The threaded fitting mounts through the hole and on the inside a flanged nut is threaded onto the male portion and it sandwiches the tank wall. I forgot the name of the fitting, but it is similar to what is called a weld spud. You can pick this type of item up at a commercial plumbing supply house. I never saw one at Home Depot or Lowes.

LBrown59 · Mar 8, 2008

bialecki said:
LBrown59, if you are referring to the setup that I have shown on the first page, the tube coming out of the tank is a welded tube that is a part of the Fuel Caddy. It has 3/4" NPT threads and I simply threaded the ball valve onto it. If you are using a tank there is a fitting that mounts through a hole that you created in the tank. The threaded fitting mounts through the hole and on the inside a flanged nut is threaded onto the male portion and it sandwiches the tank wall. I forgot the name of the fitting, but it is similar to what is called a weld spud. You can pick this type of item up at a commercial plumbing supply house. I never saw one at Home Depot or Lowes.

I noticed this after i went back and looked at your pictures.