RobJ
Elite Member
Very nice, and you can even dump your tractor out of it when unloading!!
My new equipment trailer...
- Thread starter Redbug
- Start date
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gemini5362
Veteran Member
patrick_g said:
This is a good idea. I dont know if it would work the same but when I was in the Navy we had to nonskid the decks. We would mix the agregate ( i dont remember what it was) in with paint then roll that on with a roller. After it dried we rolled on a couple more coats of deck gray and walked on that. I dont know if it would be easier to put the paint on and then sprinkle the agragate in it or if it was easier to put the agragate in that and roll on the mixture. I just know how we did it in the navy.
jarokoro
Bronze Member
I was looking at your trailer and I would have a concern about your axel placement. They are to far back. This is going to place too much weight on the tongue of the trailer transferring the load onto your bumper hitch or receiver hitch. Trailers with a tongue weight more than 500lbs should use a weight distribution hitch.
The rules are >>Trailer axels or equalizers should not be placed on the center mark of the trailer.
The formula for axel placement is: Trailers with a frame length less than 10’ or less the axel should be ½” per foot behind the center of the frame.
Trailers with a frame length of 10’ or more add 1” per foot of trailer length over 10’
Example: Single axel trailer frame 12’ long. (1/2”x10) + (1”x2) = 7”, so the axel should be centered 7” behind the frame center.
Example Tandem axel trailer 16’ long. (½” x10) + (1”x6) = 11” behind the frame center.
I bought some non-slip additive similar to this you mix directly into the paint at Home depot. It has worked fine and they will add it and mix it for you if you want. It was only a couple of dollars.
Paint Additives - O-Gee Paint Co.
The rules are >>Trailer axels or equalizers should not be placed on the center mark of the trailer.
The formula for axel placement is: Trailers with a frame length less than 10’ or less the axel should be ½” per foot behind the center of the frame.
Trailers with a frame length of 10’ or more add 1” per foot of trailer length over 10’
Example: Single axel trailer frame 12’ long. (1/2”x10) + (1”x2) = 7”, so the axel should be centered 7” behind the frame center.
Example Tandem axel trailer 16’ long. (½” x10) + (1”x6) = 11” behind the frame center.
I bought some non-slip additive similar to this you mix directly into the paint at Home depot. It has worked fine and they will add it and mix it for you if you want. It was only a couple of dollars.
Paint Additives - O-Gee Paint Co.
OP
Redbug
Veteran Member
Jarokoro, I agree with you. I did not know there was a formula. I was already planning on getting a weight distribution hitch before I load the trailer. I also took off the standard hitch that came with the GMC 2500 series trucks, (too puny), and installed a Putnam XDR class 5 hitch and a couple extra bolts. Most of the weight needs to be near the rear of the trailer.
RobJ
Elite Member
jarokoro said:
I'm trying to logically look at this formula (I am NOT a math dude). But should the 10 in the first one be 12 (you go from a 10' example to a 12') and the 10 in the second be a 16 (16'). And I don'tunderstand thex2 in the first one and the x6 in the second.
When I built mine I found and went with the standard axle placement for utility trailers. A simple 60/40 (not including the tongue). On the tandom, the split occurs at the equalizer. Mine looks a little funny because of the smaller tires, IE the larger space between the tires. But also in my case I probably could have moved the axle up some to take weight away from the tongue. But at 14' long I don't mine backing up and letting the BH hang over the back.
I also think the axle placement depends on the load. Small Jon boat trailers don't follow any "rule"...I'm sure that they are just calculated by the light load and that's why the axle is so far back.
I do agree on this trailer the axle placement "seems" to far back. Perhaps this is calculated because of the dump trailer. As you are dumping all the weight is moved to the back of the trailer....even for a short time.
Good Luck,
Rob
Attachments
jarokoro
Bronze Member
I'm trying to logically look at this formula (I am NOT a math dude). But should the 10 in the first one be 12 (you go from a 10' example to a 12') and the 10 in the second be a 16 (16'). And I don'tunderstand thex2 in the first one and the x6 in the second.
RobJ,
To answer your question, the two examples were for a single axel and a tandem axel placement.
RULE A Trailers with a frame length 10 feet or less>> is 1/2inch for each foot the frame is long. Therefore, to place an axel on a 10-foot trailer it would be ½ x 10 = 5 inches
RULE B Trailers with a frame length 10 feet or more >> is 1 inch for each foot the frame is longer than 10 feet..
So using the two rules A&B to place axels on a 16 foot trailer >> (½ inch x 10 feet) + (1 inch x 6 feet) = 11 inches
½ multiply 10= 5
1 multiply 6= 6
5+6= 11
See the attachment
RobJ,
To answer your question, the two examples were for a single axel and a tandem axel placement.
RULE A Trailers with a frame length 10 feet or less>> is 1/2inch for each foot the frame is long. Therefore, to place an axel on a 10-foot trailer it would be ½ x 10 = 5 inches
RULE B Trailers with a frame length 10 feet or more >> is 1 inch for each foot the frame is longer than 10 feet..
So using the two rules A&B to place axels on a 16 foot trailer >> (½ inch x 10 feet) + (1 inch x 6 feet) = 11 inches
½ multiply 10= 5
1 multiply 6= 6
5+6= 11
See the attachment
Attachments
RobJ
Elite Member
Ahh, I see where I was off.
I still must say there is no set rule for a trailer. It all depends on the main intended load. Like my boat example. You'd have a tail wagging trailer if you put the axle that far up. When I built my 3 trailers I went to the dealer where I bought my parts. They welcomed the DIYer to take all the measurements. The utilities were all 60/40. I didn't look at the speciality trailers because I had no need.
I still must say there is no set rule for a trailer. It all depends on the main intended load. Like my boat example. You'd have a tail wagging trailer if you put the axle that far up. When I built my 3 trailers I went to the dealer where I bought my parts. They welcomed the DIYer to take all the measurements. The utilities were all 60/40. I didn't look at the speciality trailers because I had no need.
jarokoro
Bronze Member
RobJ,
The formula I listed before was for general utility and car trailers. Where tongue weight and trailer load are calculated as know givens (or taken into consideration) in the formula without actually knowing the weight. The formula automatically determines positive tongue weight without ever knowing the actual load. Because of the style of that type trailer (utility and car), it would not be hard to overload the entire trailer but it is hard to overload the tongue.
However, if you look at this formula you can determine everything you need to build one (Boat Trailer). I do not know anyone who has made his or her own boat trailer but if you needed to, follow this formula and you will not go wrong. This formula can be used for other custom trailer applications where you would determine the weight of the load before building. Example would be a combine head, boat or other odd shape load. It is not recommended to center balance a trailer with axel(s) because you need tongue weight for the trailer to handle properly empty or loaded.
Depending on your load weight, your hitch and trailer design would be dependent on what percentage of the loads’ weight you would carry on the trailer tongue not to exceed the vehicle or hitches capacity. Example most bumpers are rated only at 500lbs tongue weight. So exceeding that capacity with 800lbs would cause failure of the bumper hitch and poor trailering.
Formula>>Determining Dimensional Requirements
1. Measure the distance from the center of the hitch to the center of gravity
2. Divide this value by the percentage of the load to be carried by the running gear.
3. The result will be the distance from the center of the hitch back to the center of the axle set
See Attached Diagram
The formula I listed before was for general utility and car trailers. Where tongue weight and trailer load are calculated as know givens (or taken into consideration) in the formula without actually knowing the weight. The formula automatically determines positive tongue weight without ever knowing the actual load. Because of the style of that type trailer (utility and car), it would not be hard to overload the entire trailer but it is hard to overload the tongue.
However, if you look at this formula you can determine everything you need to build one (Boat Trailer). I do not know anyone who has made his or her own boat trailer but if you needed to, follow this formula and you will not go wrong. This formula can be used for other custom trailer applications where you would determine the weight of the load before building. Example would be a combine head, boat or other odd shape load. It is not recommended to center balance a trailer with axel(s) because you need tongue weight for the trailer to handle properly empty or loaded.
Depending on your load weight, your hitch and trailer design would be dependent on what percentage of the loads’ weight you would carry on the trailer tongue not to exceed the vehicle or hitches capacity. Example most bumpers are rated only at 500lbs tongue weight. So exceeding that capacity with 800lbs would cause failure of the bumper hitch and poor trailering.
Formula>>Determining Dimensional Requirements
1. Measure the distance from the center of the hitch to the center of gravity
2. Divide this value by the percentage of the load to be carried by the running gear.
3. The result will be the distance from the center of the hitch back to the center of the axle set
See Attached Diagram
Attachments
patrick_g
Elite Member
When I taught Sailing Seamanship and Small boat handling, for the US Coast Guard, One of the sections was on trailerboating (which I have done with single and tandem axles.) The rule of thumb we promulgated (as per Coast Guard training literature) was 10-15% of the loaded trailer weight as tongue weight. Since in peace time the USCG is part ot the Dept of Transportation, I hoped they knew what they were talkinig about.
Load distributing hitch equipment can be a very good idea, oespecially when the standard hitch can't safely take the whole tongue weight but the vehicle can take it when distributed. Going heavy on the tongue and using load distributing hitch equipment to compensate in order to lighten the load on the trailer because ithe trailer is not good for the weight would be a bad idea if you put too high of a percentage of the trailer weight on the tongue.
Gemini, In the shipyards and drydocks I have observed mixing the granular material in the pait was sometimes done but never made as neat of a job. Ship chandlers sell containers of nonskid granules. Yachts tend to favor ground walnut shell. Most of the tuna clippers I have seen used rather course silica sand but they too added it on wet paint let it dry and repainted. Some of the silica sand was quite course and you definitely would not want to run around on it in bare feet or sprawl out on it to work on your tan. The really course stuff gives excellent traction but you don't want to contact it with any bare portion of your anatomy and you sure don't want to slide skin across it. Even kneeling down hurts your knees with the really course stuff.
Pat
Load distributing hitch equipment can be a very good idea, oespecially when the standard hitch can't safely take the whole tongue weight but the vehicle can take it when distributed. Going heavy on the tongue and using load distributing hitch equipment to compensate in order to lighten the load on the trailer because ithe trailer is not good for the weight would be a bad idea if you put too high of a percentage of the trailer weight on the tongue.
Gemini, In the shipyards and drydocks I have observed mixing the granular material in the pait was sometimes done but never made as neat of a job. Ship chandlers sell containers of nonskid granules. Yachts tend to favor ground walnut shell. Most of the tuna clippers I have seen used rather course silica sand but they too added it on wet paint let it dry and repainted. Some of the silica sand was quite course and you definitely would not want to run around on it in bare feet or sprawl out on it to work on your tan. The really course stuff gives excellent traction but you don't want to contact it with any bare portion of your anatomy and you sure don't want to slide skin across it. Even kneeling down hurts your knees with the really course stuff.
Pat
RobJ
Elite Member
the only thing bad about building a trailer for a set weight is if you want to haul something else. I carry tractors, atv, both, kids in a parade, etc. plus sometimes nothing. nothing I hate to see more is a homemade trailer wagging while going down the road. if can be unsafe to.
