My Stupidity kicked in at full throttle.

[BigBlue1]

Something like this could work:

View attachment 3025090

Amazon.com: OTC 1177 2 or 3-Jaw Slide Hammer Puller with 5 lb. Hammer and Reversible Jaws : Automotive

Buy OTC 1177 2 or 3-Jaw Slide Hammer Puller with 5 lb. Hammer and Reversible Jaws: Jaw Pullers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

A bit pricey but it might be a good one to have in the toolbox.

Having a slide hammer kit like this around is often worth its weight in gold, at least in preserving your sanity. Very useful. They can be had for under $100 and come with various attachment options.

 

[5030]

First off, I find it hard to believe that the OP put the shaft coupler on dry to begin with. You ALWAYS lubricate the stub shaft and coupler prior to installing it, ALWAYS and you NEVER beat it on. It should ALWAYS slide on easily.

Far as removing it off. I'd go with the slide hammer or ratchet strap but carefully as the stub shaft was never meant to absorb any pulling force and you can destroy the casting the shaft rides in easily and cracking the back cover casting, will cause your trans fluid to leak out and repairs won't be a cheap date either.

NEVER pound on anything on a tractor's output shaft. If it don't slide on easily, figure out why and correct it. Never beat anything on.

 

[5030]

Never figured out the advantage of using Kriol as a penetrant with PBlaster works better and is much cheaper. If you are really a cheapskate, use a 50-50 mixture of Acetone and red ATF in a spray bottle.

Kroil reminds me of Marvel Mystery Oil. Basically worthless stuff that is expensive.

 

[airbiscuit]

What type of PTO release does your mower have?
Are you 100% certain it isn't engaged/locked?

 

[bdhsfz6]

Never figured out the advantage of using Kriol as a penetrant with PBlaster works better and is much cheaper. If you are really a cheapskate, use a 50-50 mixture of Acetone and red ATF in a spray bottle.

Kroil reminds me of Marvel Mystery Oil. Basically worthless stuff that is expensive.

It's cheaper if you buy it in quantity.

 

[airbiscuit]

One benefit to chaining to a tree and driving forward with a jerk, is that is much easier to see the gears inside the tractor

 

[LouNY]

After making sure the release is released, constant tension and tapping will be the best way.
As far as lubricating the pto stub shaft or coupling joint I wouldn't recommend doing so all it will do is attract dirt and grit.

 

[jonsstihl]

the guy already admitted it was a stupid move in the title you don't need to rub it in. I vote for a ratchet strap with light tension and tapping with a hammer on the side of the yoke. like people have mentioned make sure the locking feature is not engaged.

 

[zzvyb6]

You are all asssssuming that he released the lock retainer (either a pin or a twist). If not, then it's gauled onto the pto stub shaft. If you yank it with a strap, you risk bending the tractor pto stub shaft. You need TWO symmetric pry bars. Otherwise, I'd slice it off and fit a new yoke onto the drive shaft. The cost of experience.

 

[BigBlue1]

You are all asssssuming that he released the lock retainer (either a pin or a twist). If not, then it's gauled onto the pto stub shaft. If you yank it with a strap, you risk bending the tractor pto stub shaft. You need TWO symmetric pry bars. Otherwise, I'd slice it off and fit a new yoke onto the drive shaft. The cost of experience.

Well, he did say in the initial post that "it went up about 1/4" from the locking groove". So apparently it was never locked on. Which is why, I believe, he was hesitant to even turn the PTO on.

 

[al3]

Another way would be to use an H type puller like illustrated. Advantage of this would be pulling forces would all be on the stuck component vs any support bearing/seal/cases/etc. The kit shown also comes with a bearing splitter that can be helpful to gain purchase on something with rounded edges. Have to make sure the “H” component has enough span for a given pull/application and the extension bars are long enough.



Even used something similar to unload torsion bars on an old Blazer…...

Propane torch on the knuckle while pulling .....

 

[MinnesotaEric]

It's fascinating how many ways there are to do something.... just how much work people will gamble against how much risk they are willing to take.

Chaining it to a tree and driving forward will probably accomplish something, but you don't have any control over what that might be. It might even be the PTO Housing or even the rear end casting that comes loose..

I would try that idea with the ratchet strap first. It's pretty safe. It appeals to my own bias towards solving problems with more work and less risk to expensive parts.

If that didn't work, my next move would be even more conservative. I'd take the PTO shaft apart until it was possible to put a standard gear puller onto the coupllng. That might involve some hacksawing and a new PTO shaft, but it insures that pulling the coupling off won't do any farther damage to the PTO. And there is zero chance of damaging the PTO housing

rScotty

I presumed our OP doesn't have tools. FWIW, getting stuck PTO shaft off is its own subcategory of videos on YouTube.

If the "black" is paint, then there is an interference-fit problem that will require force. If the "black" is anodizing, then it is just new PTO shaft issues, and "rattling" (literally, shaking the yoke while holding back the detent and pulling back on the driveshaft ) in the reverse version of the video below I made years ago will likely work.

 

[5030]

It's cheaper if you buy it in quantity.

View attachment 3025282

You buy it and send me a gallon, how's that. I can buy a lot of ATF and Acetone for 4600 bucks.

 

[5030]

After making sure the release is released, constant tension and tapping will be the best way.
As far as lubricating the pto stub shaft or coupling joint I wouldn't recommend doing so all it will do is attract dirt and grit.

I do all the time but...When not in use, it's covered with the plastic tube which I also put grease in... My PTO stubs are NEVER naked.

 

[scootr]

I do all the time but...When not in use, it's covered with the plastic tube which I also put grease in... My PTO stubs are NEVER naked.

Grease is your friend

 

[mllud]

You already beat yourself up in the title of your Thread. So, it's not my intention to beat on you with a hammer.
One thing that I have learned in my experience with shafts, bearings, gears and sprockets.
If you need a hammer to get it to slide on.
You will need a hammer to remove it. Every time!! Sometimes its harder to remove due to damage caused by hammering it on.
For the inexperienced. The OP now has experience about the hammer.


Your PTO stub shouldn't be damaged. Its hardened
Earlier a member posted that the outer sleeve has to slide toward the tractor to release the detent ball.

Tap that outer sleeve toward the tractor!! Then slide/hold it forward and pull back on the shaft.

Unless you have the pin that slides sideways. Newer tractors usually have the sliding sleeve.
My. Apology's if you already tried this.

 

[Jstpssng]

I use 000 gear oil on my PTO shaft. It's never uncovered though. When using something without a PTO shaft I have a sleeve to slide over it.
Of course, I also don't spend the time in fields and hay that some do.

My sleeve type PTO shafts pull toward the implement to release them.

 

[airbiscuit]

A picture of the stuck PTO connection would help.

 

[mllud]

I think my new pto shaft pushes forward to release. It is backwards to the norm.
I struggled with it the first time.

I could have it backward in my mind.
Let me know if no such shaft exists.
Thqnks

 

[confederatemule]

After making sure the release is released, constant tension and tapping will be the best way.
As far as lubricating the pto stub shaft or coupling joint I wouldn't recommend doing so all it will do is attract dirt and grit.

I agree.