Need advice/recommendation on repair/rebuild/replace Kohler KT735

[tomplum]

I don't do a lot of engine swaps from one brand to the next. I have run into the need to switch out the exhaust pipes when I have though. If Ariens had offered like machines with a Briggs, those pipes may fit or maybe the muffler can be swapped. Oh joy, more expense.

 

[oldnslo]

Recall this started with my wife hitting something, mostly likely a large rock. She probably hit the crankshaft itself. We had fiber installed on our street early this year, and discovered the trenchwork unearthed a lot of rocks, which can be hidden in the grass. We've already agreed the bush hog will be used to mow at the street from now on.

We started the mower, which will now only idle roughly for a few seconds, puffing blue smoke. The crank was clearly wobbling. The guy pointed it out, and I saw it with my own eyes. He's opinion was it was able to run normally for a few minutes before the imbalance tore something up inside, which is why it's now consuming large quantities of oil.

The guy doesn't sell mowers. He could have easily talked me into a rebuild and hundreds of dollars in labor for him. Instead, he told me to sell it and buy a new mower (which he doesn't sell). He's just a small-engine side-hustle guy, by all accounts, an honest one.

Two votes for Briggs. Thanks.

My apologies for questioning crank being bent since on most zero turns I have seen it is up inside the frame rails and pretty well protected.

On engine change.
Where is oil filter and oil drain located on current engine vs replacement?
Where is carb and related linkage new vs old

Electrical. Do you wiring schematic for current vs replacement?

Engine changes can be full of the unthought of Surprises

 

[rbstern]

My apologies for questioning crank being bent since on most zero turns I have seen it is up inside the frame rails and pretty well protected.

On engine change.
Where is oil filter and oil drain located on current engine vs replacement?
Where is carb and related linkage new vs old

Electrical. Do you wiring schematic for current vs replacement?

Engine changes can be full of the unthought of Surprises

No apology necessary.

I have a 24hp B&S with matching muffler on the way. Expecting some minor wiring challenges. Will be eliminating the choke cable (new motor is single cable integrated throttle/choke), and I'll probably have to modify the rear frame to make clearance for the exhaust pipes. Verified with the seller's support staff (Small Engine Warehouse) the motor puts out enough amps to operate the electric PTO.

I'll spend some time this weekend removing the old motor and prepping the mower for the new powerplant. Will take some pics and post here.

 

[Richard001]

While removing the engine, take detailed photos of the wiring. Will come in handy later.

Richard

 

[rbstern]

Have all plugs and cables detached from the motor, the PTO clutch removed from the crankshaft, and the motor unbolted from the frame. Only thing keeping me from taking the bad motor off the frame is getting the pulley that drives the transmissions belt off. Not quite sure how to do it. The pulley is flush against the bottom of the motor, and their is a sleeve on the crankshaft below it, presumably holding it in place; I think the sleeve also acts a spacer between that pulley and the PTO clutch assembly. The sleeve has holes on opposite sides. Not sure if their is a fastener in the holes or some sort of thru pin.

Thoughts?

 

[tomplum]

I doubt that there is a fastener for this. Some manufactures are great about protecting the drive pulley w/ anti seize, others not. I assume that you've checked the IPL. Do you have a way to cut the crank above the whole mess so you can work at extracting the pulley?

 

[rbstern]

I doubt that there is a fastener for this. Some manufactures are great about protecting the drive pulley w/ anti seize, others not. I assume that you've checked the IPL. Do you have a way to cut the crank above the whole mess so you can work at extracting the pulley?

Yes, thanks for pointing it out. Just realized it's probably just stuck on the shaft. Will hit it with some penetrating lube in the AM, and then try to tap it off.

 

[mikester]

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Looks like $3,800 for a new disposable mower.

Toilet paper is also made to be used once and throw away. I think your first repair guy gave you good advise.

You got what you paid for...a throw away mower that will shake itself apart every 5 years. Manufacturers make this junk because people keep buying it. If you buy it at homedepot then its junk.

 

[rbstern]

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Looks like $3,800 for a new disposable mower.

Toilet paper is also made to be used once and throw away. I think your first repair guy gave you good advise.

You got what you paid for...a throw away mower that will shake itself apart every 5 years. Manufacturers make this junk because people keep buying it. If you buy it at homedepot then its junk.

Your comment is ignorant.

I'm in the process of taking this thing down for the motor swap. It's extremely well made. Everything about the machine is heavy duty. The paint is damn near perfect after seven years. None of the hardware is rusted. Haven't found any rust on the frame, either. Every electrical connector, spring, switch, and moving part I've put my hands on so far has been in 100% serviceable shape.

I can't defend the quality of the Kohler; the reputation is marginal and the perpetually leaky head gaskets never gave me confidence in the motor. But it's not the motor's fault it got whacked on the crankshaft with a large rock. It might well have given many more years of service without that event.

 

[rbstern]

I doubt that there is a fastener for this. Some manufactures are great about protecting the drive pulley w/ anti seize, others not. I assume that you've checked the IPL. Do you have a way to cut the crank above the whole mess so you can work at extracting the pulley?

That small hole turned out to be a place to tap on the key in the keyway. After some WD40 this morning, a few taps with a punch in that hole and the spacer and pulley fell right off the crank.

Thanks again!