new barn design help

[Macinnis]

my recommendation is cheap…tyvek or the like.

my Morton building will NOT warranty the steel (from rust) if I spray foam against the steel. With the tyvek, they will. Apparentl, the spray foam sticks to the metal so well, it will cause Rust on the outside of the steel.

eddie is correct on the doors, I went back and forth between 10 and 12. I got 10. Only a matter of time before one gets damaged.

 

[zzvyb6]

Mine's 40x60 2 story, center aisle, concrete block with 2 offset flat roof slabs. Windows where the slabs come together. I have added a 2-post car lift for occasional use mostly with the mowers and farm machinery. A special concrete floor is needed for it. But, here is my real suggestion: Take into account that you will want LOTS of storage in there, tools, welders, saws, compressors, tire changer, etc, and the shelving and contents that also comes along with this stuff eats up your floor-space quickly. so add an extra 3 feet of building per wall just to maintain the original functionality. As you get older, that storage space gets eaten up very quickly.

 

[ChuckT]

You're working on the shop building that I want (also) tho on a smaller scale. Mine would have two of the aisles, middle and left, drive thru with front and rear roll ups for wife's horse trailer and the truck and definitely I would add a john room with a toilet, sink and shower. Right aisle would be lawn equipment and storage. You can have too much storage, encourages clutter, but the upside is somewhere to put stuff.

 

[LD1]

I think a barn with a raised center like
View attachment 719583
(ignore the windows below the upper roof) is much less imposing than one with a single roof surface, even with a taller center portion.
I think the style you have drawn is aesthetically monolithic and so it says "big".
My neighbor has a similar barn as this and is says "barn" instead of "big generic building" to me.

I would build it like this

Metal trusses are expensive.

And if I understand correctly....you are wanting to build a wall between the bays? So each of the three bays are separate (so you dont get a bunch of wood working dust on your collector cars)

If that is the case.....you are gonna pay BIG $$$$ for 60' clearspan trusses....when in fact you only need 20' trusses for the middle and 20' mono trusses for each side bay.

And it will look alot better aesthetically.

 

[herm0016]

I would build it like this

Metal trusses are expensive.

And if I understand correctly....you are wanting to build a wall between the bays? So each of the three bays are separate (so you dont get a bunch of wood working dust on your collector cars)

If that is the case.....you are gonna pay BIG $$$$ for 60' clearspan trusses....when in fact you only need 20' trusses for the middle and 20' mono trusses for each side bay.

And it will look alot better aesthetically.

i was thinking back corner for wood shop. maybe 20x20. that would really be plenty for me. its actually more money to do the center posts vs clear span the 60 feet. 60 feet is nothing to these guys.
no trusses, clear span steel. 40 depth only requires 3 frames.

 

[LD1]

i was thinking back corner for wood shop. maybe 20x20. that would really be plenty for me. its actually more money to do the center posts vs clear span the 60 feet. 60 feet is nothing to these guys.
no trusses, clear span steel. 40 depth only requires 3 frames.

I wasnt figuring on center posts.

I was figuring that if you were planning on sectioning it off anyway....that the center walls would just be stick built.

If you were wanting it all open, then by all means do as you have planned.

Thats why I said "if I understand you correctly....."

 

[WM75Guy]

Like the others have said go with 12' wide doors as a minimum. We did a 10'X10' door on each end. With the trim around the opening it is less than 10'. It is fine for a lawn mower but the trailer is a tight fit, about 6"-8" on a side.

We did a 4:12 pitch on our 30'X40' shop with a 12' 1:12 pitch lean-to on each side. It is nice have some covered storage with easy access. I keep poles, t-posts, and the tractor on one side. The far side which faces east was a fenced dog kennel but with the dog gone it will become tractor parking. We added skylights, a ridge vent, and insulation on the ceiling and walls. We built the shop in 2008 but didn't electricity till last year. During the day there was plenty of light to work with the skylights.

We recently built a 14'X20' room inside for my wife's stained glass workshop. The HVAC outside unit sits out of the weather on the east side. Now that we have electricity the next project is lights on the outside, so I don't have to work on a tractor in the dark.

 

[AGreenFarmer]

my recommendation is cheap…tyvek or the like.

my Morton building will NOT warranty the steel (from rust) if I spray foam against the steel. With the tyvek, they will. Apparentl, the spray foam sticks to the metal so well, it will cause Rust on the outside of the steel.

eddie is correct on the doors, I went back and forth between 10 and 12. I got 10. Only a matter of time before one gets damaged.

Wait What? Small cell foam shouldn't allow moisture... yes? No moisture... no rust.

 

[herm0016]

changes: 12 ft doors, drive through.

@AGreenFarmer yea, the guy I have been talking to said they recommend closed cell foam and it does not change the warranty.

 

[AGreenFarmer]

Thank you @herm0016. I am building a 40x60 workshop and a 3600 sq ft Metal house, sealing it all with small cell foam. You almost ruined my day