New here w/ Ford 861

   / New here w/ Ford 861
  • Thread Starter
#61  
Check out the pictures. The parallel one can't contact the threads except right at the end, and then the only real contact is that one corner on the end that's off parallel by the tilt off the file; and in the perpendicular one, the file teeth don't cut that way (if I run it around the rim).
 

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   / New here w/ Ford 861 #62  
i'm not sure what your issue is.. I've used your pic #2 before.. though i go from the backside with the pan off. generally all tooth damage is at the tip, not base anyway..


soundguy
 
   / New here w/ Ford 861
  • Thread Starter
#63  
You must have the better file that works both ways---mine just files if you run it lengthwise along the threads:confused2: no matter though, the new/old pan is on a truck somewhere making its way to me. On further examination of the existing pan I notice identations on both sides of the plug opening lip---like someone jacked up the engine from that spot. This deformed the threads enough to mess up the plug action IMO...
 
   / New here w/ Ford 861 #64  
very common to see a crushed up oil pan at the base. either someone fgot it high centered.. or jacked on it.

I repalced the pan on my 660 due to that same issue.

my file works when you run it lengthwise along the thread. OD or ID makes no difference.
 
   / New here w/ Ford 861 #65  
Soundguy -
Where are you in Central Florida?
 
   / New here w/ Ford 861 #66  
2 closest major cities are ocal and orlando.. I'm between them. bunch of lil popcorn cities scattered all around.. wildwood, belleview, summerfield, lady lake, leesburg, weirsdale, eustis, pedro, umatilla, altoona, crystal river..e tc. all them are within 1hr drive, with ovcala at about 30-40m and orlando 45m-1hr if i hit the turnpike...
 
   / New here w/ Ford 861
  • Thread Starter
#67  
Hi Soundguy,

Got the new/old pan today! Threads are good, was pushed in a bit around the plug opening---hammered it out, looks ok. Lip is different---with the indentations (see picture). Previously you said to put a light smear of gasket goop on the gasket to hold it in place when installing. Should I fill those indentations with the stuff, or just put it on the raised surface? Just one side or both? I'm using the orange hi-temp stuff.

This is working out to be the longest oil change in history.
Thank you for all the advice.
 

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   / New here w/ Ford 861 #68  
i never use rtv.. permatex #2 non hardening is what I would use, and I would apply a smear to the gasket and use that to stick it to the pan.. leave the other side dry.. that will keep the gasket in place while you attach it.

rtv will actually PROMOTE leaking in these situations.

don't overtorque the pan bolts either.. that supple cork gsket should just compress a bit and then go. once youve ran and warmed it.. check the bolts.. might need a lil 1/4 twist.. etc.. then you should be good.
 
   / New here w/ Ford 861
  • Thread Starter
#69  
Okay. I'll get some #2. Packed the pump with vasoline. I'll post back when I get it going---hopefully tomorrow. Still need to time the distributor...
 
   / New here w/ Ford 861 #70  
yep.. save that rtv for something else.. you won't regret the #2. the rtv will actually lift from the metal from oil residuals, and make the gasket want to push out the side under compression, kinda like extruding out.. also makes a capilary surface to make a weeping oil leak, unlike the #2 non hardening, or the cork top..
 

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