New Holland Boomer 37 in DPF Shutdown Mode

[Craigercj]

You could replace the solenoid with a simple shut off solenoid, I may do this. This is the new holland part number for the pre-tier 4 ISM engine: SBA185206083

Amazon.com

I bought the fuel shut off solenoid, but I can't figure out how to remove the pigtails from the mount so I can unscrew the stock solenoid without twisting up the wires. Also found out that unplugging the 3 wire for the rack position sensor will prevent cranking if you don't crank as soon as turning the key on, and will alarm, but that may have been explained already in this thread. Don't know if that's typical for boomer 47 since I have a messed up ecu.

 

[mp40oli]

Hi im new here and read through all of this thread. So i already took off the DPF and remove all the insides today on my 2016 Workmaster 37, just ordered the new cable. Have not done the wiring yet but know what to do. My question is what all alarm lights will be on after doing this and is the only solution to just unplug the bulbs on the cluster or is there something else to be done? Also instead of cutting the wires I found the plug on amazon and figured i can just tape up the stock plug and run the new one with the wire going to the ignition and other to ground. I thought a while back I had read there is a way to make it so every time you turn on the key it resets the regen clock but I'm not finding that now, if someone knows how to do this please direct me on where to read. Thank you

My lights are still on. Engine and DPF. I'm leaving it as is. I havnt heard about resetting the regen clock . I did cut my wires to the solenoid on the solenoid side of the plug not to damage the engine harness side. I did lengthen them by re routing them after cutting. That was suggested earlier on in the thread. This made it easier to attach the butt connectors I used. I'm still running 12v to the solenoid. I bought a 5 amp online fuse but havnt bothered yet to install it. I'm on my 3rd tank of fuel since the delete. No regrets.

 

[smitty2590]

My lights are still on. Engine and DPF. I'm leaving it as is. I havnt heard about resetting the regen clock . I did cut my wires to the solenoid on the solenoid side of the plug not to damage the engine harness side. I did lengthen them by re routing them after cutting. That was suggested earlier on in the thread. This made it easier to attach the butt connectors I used. I'm still running 12v to the solenoid. I bought a 5 amp online fuse but havnt bothered yet to install it. I'm on my 3rd tank of fuel since the delete. No regrets.

Thanks for the info. I went ahead and pulled the cluster apart and just lifted the black part up and placed black electrical tape over the led lights for those two and put it back in. Can’t see the lights at all. I personally didn’t care but my dad wanted it done so I did it. He’s older and couldn’t get over the lights . Thanks everyone on this post for all the helpful information.

 

[Doug J]

My Boomer 47 is stuck in constant regen state and I will be deleting as soon as it goes into limp mode or when I get the cable and the time, using tractor on fencing right now. I want to thank all that posted here, the information on this thread has been very helpful determining that this would work on the Boomer 47. I will update post with results.

 

[thclimer]

My Boomer 47 is stuck in constant regen state and I will be deleting as soon as it goes into limp mode or when I get the cable and the time, using tractor on fencing right now. I want to thank all that posted here, the information on this thread has been very helpful determining that this would work on the Boomer 47. I will update post with results.

Welcome to TBN

Good luck on your project and post back your results.

 

[smitty2590]

Ran my tractor for the first time since the delete today. Ran great for about 2 hours but now the glow plug light and oil pressure light stay on and it’s picks when it wants to start or not. Sometimes it starts right up other times you turn the key and nothing. Yes I’ve turning the key all the way right away. Anyone have any suggestions or anywhere to start looking? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[alexpops]

For the intermittent starts. Check the battery & load test it. Chec voltage readings at the fuse panel & key switch. If less than at battery, check ground at both ends for clean/tight connections. Check the Main fuse (100 amp) at the + post for corrosion/resistance.

For the glow plug/oil pressure lights ... check the wire runs to make sure you didn't pinch/break (or melt through) insulation while doing the delete and that any connectors you unplugged are clean/tight/solid. Finally, there is a wire loom on some of these LS's than chafes through at the radiator bracket. see if that might be the issue.

 

[Craigercj]

Ran my tractor for the first time since the delete today. Ran great for about 2 hours but now the glow plug light and oil pressure light stay on and it’s picks when it wants to start or not. Sometimes it starts right up other times you turn the key and nothing. Yes I’ve turning the key all the way right away. Anyone have any suggestions or anywhere to start looking? Any help would be appreciated.

It seems like maybe a bad connection at the ignition switch, and since it was fiddled with to jump the solenoid, its where i'd start.

 

[Craigercj]

For the intermittent starts. Check the battery & load test it. Chec voltage readings at the fuse panel & key switch. If less than at battery, check ground at both ends for clean/tight connections. Check the Main fuse (100 amp) at the + post for corrosion/resistance.

This too, I had intermittent start problems (before the delete) and the battery ground bolt was all chewed up and corroded from loosening and sparking.

 

[mp40oli]

I've had issues on my 33 with ground wires and the fuse block infront of the rad. All fuse spade connections where corroded. Maybe from the wet environment since it's directly behind the front grille. I'd like to point out for all that maybe an eye should be kept on the temp gauge. During summer months my Polen plugged rad caused overheating and engine limp modes multiple times . Now possibly this safety system removed preventing engine damage the engine might run till it's seized. Not sure but I don't wanna find out . Just saying to keep an eye on that gauge.