New Holland Boomer 37 in DPF Shutdown Mode

[EvolvingHuman617]

Thankful for everyone in this thread. Recently acquired a 2014 boomer 37 that is now doing what recent poster legacy man stated with a max of 1800 rpm. I bought it from an auction probably 6 weeks ago (changed the oil and Hydraulic fluids and associated filters and replaced leaking quick connects).

BIG question before I do the DPF delete in the very near future - mine is an HST so the foot pedals make it go forward or backward. Do they retain that functionality still but lose the ability vary the speed?

 

[Eagle1]

HST speed is controlled by how hard you press the go pedal up to what the engine speed can deliver. More RPM more hydraulic flow to drive the HST unit giving more top speed.
I guess I'm saying the HST is a function of hydraulic flow and pressure not engine speed like a manual gear. The engine powers the pump and HST applies that flow from ground motion. You can inch along at full engine speed or go a fast as possible at the same RPM

 

[EvolvingHuman617]

That makes perfect sense, thank you.

Now that several of you have 6-18 months on your tractors since doing the DPF delete, how are they running? Any regrets or notable things to do differently?

 

[sennai]

It's been a year, and no problems since. I am glad I did it.

 

[Jrasband]

no regrets here.

 

[EvolvingHuman617]

Did the delete today but unfortunately it won't even attempt to crank when turning the key in the ignition. Planning to check fuses in the morning but not sure where else the problem might be stemming from. Anyone else have that issue when first doing the delete? I'm hoping it's something simple I'm missing - did everything that was shown in the youtube video.

 

[alexpops]

All your safeties in the right position?

 

[EvolvingHuman617]

Read through the service manual and checked the safety switches. Unable to find a blown fuse or faulty relay but it would start and run fine when circumventing the factory harness on the starter. Just elected to run my own wire from the start position on the starter to the start lug on the ignition switch. Used a couple zip ties to run it up and over right in front of the firewall and in through the same hole that the new fuel solenoid wire and mechanical throttle cable went through.

So if anyone else runs into the issue where it simply doesn't crank, there's your fix.

 

[mp40oli]

Quick question guys. I been following this thread and am about to gut the can. Is the constant 12v going to the newly hotwired/bypassed solenoid from my ignition switch going to cause problems? I'm seeing in posts a 5v source is required . So I'm confused. I don't want it getting fried and suddenly getting stuck open or closed. Thank you

 

[Jrasband]

Quick question guys. I been following this thread and am about to gut the can. Is the constant 12v going to the newly hotwired/bypassed solenoid from my ignition switch going to cause problems? I'm seeing in posts a 5v source is required . So I'm confused. I don't want it getting fried and suddenly getting stuck open or closed. Thank you

I did not have any problems doing that.