New Home Begins

tkappeler · Feb 23, 2013

Here are the instructions for vycor instructions and also in a recent JLC article.

MarkV · Feb 24, 2013

Always a nice feeling when you finally get dried in. Great build, thanks for posting.

MarkV

dstig1 · Feb 24, 2013

If you have used Vycor before, you will recall how awful it is to work with. If you haven't you will find out...

Hard to handle, and it likes to lift and curl. One local builder I know says how he ends up taping over the edges of it with the regular Tyvek tape to keep the edges down (not very efficient). It also tends to creep and sag a lot as it is gooey - hot weather is a big problem. Now I first saw this stuff in JLC a couple years back and have since seen it demoed in person. It is incredible flashing tape. Thin, crazy tough, sticks like grim death to everything and will not lift. I haven't compared prices, but I'm sure it is more expensive (probably a lot), and I don't know how easy it is to find.

You can get it direct, if you can navigate through the nearly hopeless 3M website. This is probably a very expensive way to buy it too...
3M All Weather Flashing Tape 8067-Shop 3M

-Dave

tkappeler · Feb 24, 2013

dstig1 said:
If you have used Vycor before, you will recall how awful it is to work with. If you haven't you will find out... Hard to handle, and it likes to lift and curl. One local builder I know says how he ends up taping over the edges of it with the regular Tyvek tape to keep the edges down (not very efficient). It also tends to creep and sag a lot as it is gooey - hot weather is a big problem. Now I first saw this stuff in JLC a couple years back and have since seen it demoed in person. It is incredible flashing tape. Thin, crazy tough, sticks like grim death to everything and will not lift. I haven't compared prices, but I'm sure it is more expensive (probably a lot), and I don't know how easy it is to find.

You can get it direct, if you can navigate through the nearly hopeless 3M website. This is probably a very expensive way to buy it too...
3M All Weather Flashing Tape 8067-Shop 3M

-Dave

Very cool. I use a well placed staple in the corners to ease the curling. I will look up the 3M stuff for future reference. I also saw a different brand ... Protecto. The name invokes something made in someone garage and sold to the coyote in some scheme to get the roadrunner. I am not sure I can trust it on name alone.

tkappeler · Feb 24, 2013

dstig1 said:
If you have used Vycor before, you will recall how awful it is to work with. If you haven't you will find out... Hard to handle, and it likes to lift and curl. One local builder I know says how he ends up taping over the edges of it with the regular Tyvek tape to keep the edges down (not very efficient). It also tends to creep and sag a lot as it is gooey - hot weather is a big problem. Now I first saw this stuff in JLC a couple years back and have since seen it demoed in person. It is incredible flashing tape. Thin, crazy tough, sticks like grim death to everything and will not lift. I haven't compared prices, but I'm sure it is more expensive (probably a lot), and I don't know how easy it is to find.

You can get it direct, if you can navigate through the nearly hopeless 3M website. This is probably a very expensive way to buy it too...
3M All Weather Flashing Tape 8067-Shop 3M

-Dave

I see the 3M flashing tape online for about just few dollars more than the vycor. 3M for $47 for 6"x75'. I would have tried it if I saw it

dstig1 · Feb 24, 2013

I've used Protecto too. Basically the same as Vycor. Same bitumin/butyl gook. You won't believe the difference between the 3M stuff and the others. My friend and I took to calling the Protecto/Vycor "goop strip" when we used it a few years back (before the 3M stuff existed).

mjncad · Feb 25, 2013

That 3M stuff is amazing, especially when one factors in the temperature that the guy in the video applied it at.

Better living through chemistry.

955Lincoln · Feb 25, 2013

mjncad said:
Better living through chemistry.

Wow! DuPont exibit 1964 New York Worlds Fair . Now......why can't I remember what I did yesterday.:drool:

tkappeler · Feb 26, 2013

More pictures as the house is now weather tight. Roofers are wrapping up as we speak with rain and wind on the way in a few hours. Next up ...

Housewrap and siding. Plumbing rough in. Electrical rough in.

MasseyWV · Feb 26, 2013

Looks great. I really like the cathedral ceiling and the doors at either end of the fireplace... nice touch. :thumbsup:

TnWV · Feb 26, 2013

Looks fantastic!!! Being dried in has to be a good feeling.

s219 · Feb 26, 2013

Looking great. It's a big milestone to get the roof on.

srs · Feb 26, 2013

Tom, everything looks great! A suggestion when it warms up. You should caulk inside where the exterior walls meet the subfloor. Use only a HIGH quality caulk that stays flexible. Don't be cheap here and only put a small amount in. You really want to seal this area tight! Not only can cold air enter here but tiny tiny tiny bugs can also get into the house from these areas. Sealing any hole, crack, openings will keep the house much more air tight and bug free. Some areas where pipes, wires, etc. come through an opening can be sealed with products like Great Stuff or equivalent. I know I'm getting ahead of your project but this is something to think about. Thanks for the great pictures too! Stanley

sld · Feb 26, 2013

I'm curious about the choice of double hung windows. Most homes I am familiar with use casements.

One of the previous houses I owned had double hung windows and I thought they were pretty good but I don't seem to see them anymore.

Great thread and thanks for taking the time to post everything.

s219 · Feb 26, 2013

sld said:
I'm curious about the choice of double hung windows. Most homes I am familiar with use casements.

One of the previous houses I owned had double hung windows and I thought they were pretty good but I don't seem to see them anymore.

Great thread and thanks for taking the time to post everything.

That's interesting, because around here casements are rare and double-hungs are the standard. We went with casements in our new house to get the right look (mountain/craftsman), but I can tell you they carried quite a cost penalty over double hung. In fact, our off-brand Certainteed casements still cost more than double-hung Andersens we were comparing to. Andersen casements were totally out of sight.

mjncad · Feb 27, 2013

I think single and double-hung, and sliding windows are evil because of the way they operate and seal, and that casement and awning windows seal out the elements and operate better; but I was glad to see Tom bought quality windows, which will make a big difference in how his single-hung windows perform.

Around here most homes have single-hung windows because the builders are so blasted cheap. We have vinyl single hung windows in our house and I absolutely hate them. They are bottom of the barrel no-name brand, don't seal for crap, are drafty and let in fine talcum powder dirt that has stained our Hunter-Douglas Duette blinds.

mjncad · Feb 27, 2013

I think single and double-hung, and sliding windows are evil because of the way they operate and seal, and that casement and awning windows seal out the elements and operate better; but I was glad to see Tom bought quality windows, which will make a big difference in how his single-hung windows perform.

Around here most homes have single-hung windows because the builders are so blasted cheap. We have vinyl single hung windows in our house and I absolutely hate them. They are bottom of the barrel no-name brand, don't seal for crap, are drafty and let in fine talcum powder dirt that has stained our Hunter-Douglas Duette blinds.

tkappeler · Feb 27, 2013

srs said:
Tom, everything looks great! A suggestion when it warms up. You should caulk inside where the exterior walls meet the subfloor. Use only a HIGH quality caulk that stays flexible. Don't be cheap here and only put a small amount in. You really want to seal this area tight! Not only can cold air enter here but tiny tiny tiny bugs can also get into the house from these areas. Sealing any hole, crack, openings will keep the house much more air tight and bug free. Some areas where pipes, wires, etc. come through an opening can be sealed with products like Great Stuff or equivalent. I know I'm getting ahead of your project but this is something to think about. Thanks for the great pictures too! Stanley

Thanks. I have a list of things to do that can be done over time and get everyone involved. This is on the list. Also sealing along the ceiling line too after the ceiling sheet rock is in.

mjncad said:
... but I was glad to see Tom bought quality windows, which will make a big difference in how his single-hung windows perform. ...

Thanks. We went with Andersen 200s not the 400 series for two reasons. My wife does not like the tilt mechanism in the 400. It is a wide plastic jamb liner that you press out to the frames to release the window to tilt. We wanted a more wood look and the big hunk of plastic was not the look we wanted. Second was price.

Thanks for the feedback all.

dhagood · Feb 27, 2013

mjncad said:
I think single and double-hung, and sliding windows are evil because of the way they operate and seal, and that casement and awning windows seal out the elements and operate better; but I was glad to see Tom bought quality windows, which will make a big difference in how his single-hung windows perform.

Around here most homes have single-hung windows because the builders are so blasted cheap. We have vinyl single hung windows in our house and I absolutely hate them. They are bottom of the barrel no-name brand, don't seal for crap, are drafty and let in fine talcum powder dirt that has stained our Hunter-Douglas Duette blinds.

we have vinyl single hung windows in our house as well, and i don't like them very much either. we had casement windows in our first house and i absolutely hated those things. they were the original windows and both the window frame and the casement gears were aluminum. the aluminum window frames warped and would no longer seal; about half the aluminum gears were totally stripped out and the other half would just barely work. i will never have aluminum casement windows in anything i own and i hated them so badly that i doubt i can force myself to look at casement windows as a viable option.

have i mentioned that i don't like casement windows?

mjncad · Feb 28, 2013

Cheap casement and awning windows are crap too. My Mom's old place (1956) had steel framed casements made of angle iron. Although they are single paned energy pigs that had no seals whatsoever; the biggest hassle with them were the die-cast aluminum crank mechanisms crapping out. The local Ace hardware store kept a good supply of replacement mechanisms in stock.

When we remodeled Mom's kitchen, we put in aluminum clad wood framed Kolbe & Kolbe casement windows. Much, much better and she could easily open and close them unlike the original 1956 casements. There was no way my Mom could operate a single hung window, especially the one over the sink. She was 5'-2" in her 30's; but probably 5'-0" or less when she died at 90.

I'm not a big fan of vinyl windows because they flex too much in my opinion; but I do like that they don't need painting. If we replace the windows in Casa Lemon as I call our house, they will be casements. If I design a place, it will have casement and/or awning windows.