OP
justinramani
Gold Member
Eddie,
You convinced me. I went ahead and bought enough wire to do two runs of 12/2. It should work well for road lighting. The wire was pricey!!! It's been an expensive day
.New House Build in the Country!!!
- Thread starter justinramani
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You convinced me. I went ahead and bought enough wire to do two runs of 12/2. It should work well for road lighting. The wire was pricey!!! It's been an expensive day
.truckdiagnostics
Platinum Member
You need to throw something in there to get your camera image back. Don't know what that would be, wish I would have done it. Did the power.Eddie,
You convinced me. I went ahead and bought enough wire to do two runs of 12/2. It should work well for road lighting. The wire was pricey!!! It's been an expensive day.
aczlan
Good Morning
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2008
- Messages
- 16,985
- Tractor
- Kubota L3830GST, B7500HST, BX2660. Formerly: Case 480F LL, David Brown 880UE
At that distance (if its a network camera) it would need to be fiber or something like one of those DSL network extenders.
Aaron Z
Aaron Z
OP
justinramani
Gold Member
Question for everyone.... On Friday they came and trenched in the water line to the house. They did a good job, but i'm concerned about where they crossed the creek. On Friday the pipe was covered, but today you can now see the pipe on the surface of the water. I figured that they had not gone deep enough originally, but I didn't realize just how shallow it actually was. What do y'all think the best option is? They could do a 90 degree on each side of the creek and get the pipe deeper that way. Are there any other/better options?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Terry1040
Silver Member
Don't know, but can you add dirt above the pipe or a small reroute in the creek ? Keep it well marked for future concerns also. Good luck.
orezok
Elite Member
Looking at your secondary garage, I note that you show 9' (width?) doors. While it probably varies by manufacturer, my 10' door only has a throat width of 9'-10".
My Ford 150 with mirrors in the inner position is 8'-9 1/2"" and when extended to the towing position it is 9'-4".
A 9' door may only have a 8'-10" throat. Gonna be tight to get a pickup in there.
My cost of a 10' over 9' door (insulated with interior metal panels) was less than $100.
My Ford 150 with mirrors in the inner position is 8'-9 1/2"" and when extended to the towing position it is 9'-4".
A 9' door may only have a 8'-10" throat. Gonna be tight to get a pickup in there.
My cost of a 10' over 9' door (insulated with interior metal panels) was less than $100.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Who is "they?" Was it a plumber or the utility company?
When crossing a creek, my water utility company has some requirements. I forget how deep you have to go, I'm thinking 2 feet, but the water pipe has to be encased in a steel pipe and then the trench has to be filled with concrete.
This is unacceptable and will lead to failure.
OP
justinramani
Gold Member
It was put in by the same guys who are doing the grading/driveway work. Should I ask them to dig it down two feet and case it in another pipe? I'm not sure that I want that pipe cased in concrete.
OP
justinramani
Gold Member
I agree that the current placement is not acceptable.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
All soil moves. Some soil moves more then other soil. Pipes in the ground break because they cannot handle all the movement of the soil.
Putting the water line inside another pipe allows the water line pipe to move, which reduces that chance of failure. Pouring concrete onto the water line would increase it's likelihood of failure because the concrete will move with the soil and stress the pipe.
If for some reason the water line ever failed, you could replace it because it is inside another pipe.
The only other option that might work is to bury the pipe at the bottom of the ditch going through the creek with a layer of sand, then pouring the concrete on top of the sand. I know that some cities do something similar to this.
When burying a line under a creek, the few times I've seen it done, they dig the trench and use the dirt to dam up the creek. You can only do this when it's flowing slowly, or not at all. Then after the trench is dug, they lay the pipe with the sleeve in the trench and then back up the cement truck and dump a couple of yards of concrete into the trench. I have never seen them take down the temporary dam. I was told it will wash away on it's own and it's better to let the concrete set without the water over it as long as possible.
This is here in my area of Texas.
I would either try to look up what code is there, or go talk to somebody at the Water Utility to see how they do it. I would consider what the Water Utility does to be gospel and I would do it exactly how they say to do it. I would not pay your plumber until it's done correctly. He might charge you more, but whatever it takes, I would not leave it like that.
