New L2501 advice needed

[needmoredirt]

Have about 5ac, some is rather slopey, if that's a word, too downright dangerous on old feet.

Username should give an idea of first task that has been started, erosion has taken its toll in a few short months, too much to fix by hand, need more dirt.

My approach to WHAT tractor to buy, was more of what NOT to buy, "that leaves two".

New L2501 hst/r4's and L526 loader/SSQA was (I hope) the correct answer for me, wife, not so much, "you just want a tractor".

That's it, clean slate to work with (not that I'm exactly sure what a 525, 526 or 527 is besides metric, or how to run it without killing myself).

No mowing, have ZT and 21 for the green stuff - or what will be green.

Safety is #1. Thinking 3" spacers and ballast. Pallet forks on the short list. Looking at quick hitch, ballast box, no idea about forks.

This machine will probably live with me in the shop, with tools, once I'm not forgiven by the wife

Information overload has been the game, load me up!

 

[aesanders]

Congratulations on the new Bota. My number 1 recommendation for any new tractor owner, is go slow at first and read, read, read the owner manual. It has tons of information.

 

[jeff9366]

1) New L2501 hst/r4's and L526 loader/SSQA was (I hope) the correct answer for me, wife, not so much, "you just want a tractor".

1) That's it, clean slate to work with (not that I'm exactly sure what a 525, 526 or 527 is besides metric, or how to run it without killing myself).



2) Safety is #1. Thinking 3" spacers and ballast. Pallet forks on the short list. Looking at quick hitch, ballast box, no idea about forks.

1) The Loader numbers are the approximate lift capacity in kilograms. The last digit is a Kubota Loader series indicator mostly important for ordering Loader parts.

2) Counterbalance weight on the TPH is the most effective factor in improving tractor stability when using a Loader. Wider rear tire stance is number two improvement for tractor stability, not far behind counterbalance. Third is 50% to 75% liquid filled rear tires are to lower center-of-gravity. Tire ballast trails counterbalance and increasing rear tire width in increasing tractor stability when using a Loader. Tire ballast does improve tire traction.

Add a SSQA (Skid Steer Quick Attach) Loader option to your wish list.

 

[RjCorazza]

The L2501 is a workhorse, and enjoys a very good reputation. I'm sure you will like your new machine.
Some people swear by heavy ballast boxes, but my preference is loaded tires for daily stability, and a heavy implement for loader work. Rear ballast is important when using the loader, particularly when on slopes. When possible I avoid slopes altogether when using the loader. Be certain to be in 4wd while going down a slope, or you may go for a ride.
For a lot of dirt pile work you may want to add a tooth bar to your bucket. Enjoy!

 

[Carl_NH]

Congrats on your new tractor - it's a great unit as others have stated. Also without your location its hard to suggest implements - but if you have snow get a rear blade it's also a good counter weight - get at least a 6' and if you want to grade dirt or scrape/trench a ditch, get a hydraulic top link on it.

You can reverse the blade too, which can be used to level dirt. If you don't have snow to be concerned about maybe landscape rake instead to level and spread dirt.

 

[jyoutz]

Congrats on your new tractor - it's a great unit as others have stated. Also without your location its hard to suggest implements - but if you have snow get a rear blade it's also a good counter weight - get at least a 6' and if you want to grade dirt or scrape/trench a ditch, get a hydraulic top link on it.

You can reverse the blade too, which can be used to level dirt. If you don't have snow to be concerned about maybe landscape rake instead to level and spread dirt.

I would add that even if you don’t have snow, a good rear blade is a versatile implement and great for dirt or gravel road maintenance. It’s a far more versatile implement than a landscape rake.

 

[needmoredirt]

Wow, didn't expect so much response and the thumbs up. Thanks!

SSQA was on the list of must haves, I've got it, need forks and SSQA thingie removed forks too, seems like 2 decisions there?

Will read and go slow, avoid tippy areas until I make them not so tippy (even the ZT is scary at times when I don't slow down).

First thing I was tasked with after buying this place was 100 yards of asphalt driveway. In TX - don't have snow, just failed electric

One thing I wanted was R14's, having loaded R4's gives me pause. Flats don't sound like fun. More "what NOT", given I can't reduce weight when it's not needed being delicate???

Tooth bar sounds good, gotta go shopping.

How can I load (a good!) rear/box blade (they are the same, no? Reverse it???) on a quick attach to avoid ballast box? I like versatility for a couple bucks more (not to mention the real estate these things take when idle).

Sorry, have more questions than answers ATM.

Great stuff, keep'em coming!!!

 

[jyoutz]

Wow, didn't expect so much response and the thumbs up. Thanks!

SSQA was on the list of must haves, I've got it, need forks and SSQA thingie removed forks too, seems like 2 decisions there?

Will read and go slow, avoid tippy areas until I make them not so tippy (even the ZT is scary at times when I don't slow down).

First thing I was tasked with after buying this place was 100 yards of asphalt driveway. In TX - don't have snow, just failed electric

One thing I wanted was R14's, having loaded R4's gives me pause. Flats don't sound like fun. More "what NOT", given I can't reduce weight when it's not needed being delicate???

Tooth bar sounds good, gotta go shopping.

How can I load (a good!) rear/box blade (they are the same, no? Reverse it???) on a quick attach to avoid ballast box? I like versatility for a couple bucks more (not to mention the real estate these things take when idle).

Sorry, have more questions than answers ATM.

Great stuff, keep'em coming!!!

I have a rear blade that is heavy (1025#) and a rotary cutter. Both of these offer good ballast but actually have a purpose, unlike a ballast box. But I can see a ballast box if someone needs to use the loader in tight spots.

 

[RjCorazza]

Since you mentioned erosion and adding dirt, a landscape rake or rear blade with gauge wheels is a great implement. The gauge wheels make a huge difference.
Everyone loves spending your money!

 

[2manyrocks]

Have you measured your slope? A simple digital level will do it. Most humans have difficulty accurately estimating a slope by eye. Wouldn't advise getting on much of a slope without knowing what you are actually dealing with first.

 

[4570Man]

Have you measured your slope? A simple digital level will do it. Most humans have difficulty accurately estimating a slope by eye. Wouldn't advise getting on much of a slope without knowing what you are actually dealing with first.

The slope doesn’t mean much. You could drive the tractor across a 30 degree hill or realistically probably more if the ground was perfectly smooth and the loader was on the ground and you had a rear weight that’s low. You could also roll the tractor on a 15 degree hill with the loader in the air and hitting a small hole. You could roll the tractor on almost flat ground with careless loader use and no ballast.

 

[2manyrocks]

I wouldn't drive my L2501 on a 30 degree hill.

 

[RjCorazza]

While true that conditions are an important (and unforgiving) variable, I would not operate any standard scut, cut , or full size tractor sideways on a 30 degree slope. Ever.
As far as flat ground... I have witnessed a tractor almost roll over on flat ground with the variable of one medium sized rock and careless loader operation.

 

[Carl_NH]

Since youre in TX I would suggest you invest in a rear scraper blade with "top and tilt" which you will need 1 or 2 sets of remote hydraulic connections in the back, Here's a video

If you don't have the $ now, just get a regular "used" scraper blade 6 or 7' for now, then add the top and tilt later, and yes most of them are easily reversed to use as a "leveling" blade too. A basic rear blade you can find for $500 "used" and $2K new, then top/tilt is additional - rear remotes are $$.

The other tool depends on your needs for brush clearing is a grapple in place of your front bucket for brush and stuff - this also needs a third function hydraulic valve and is ~ $2-3K range.

 

[5030]

Kubota is still offering 0 percent interest or 84 month financing on select models. I get to play with new ones all the time when I'm delivering them for my dealer. He's selling a pile of them. Amazing.

I have an F20 front mount 70" mower coming in on trade, always wanted one so I'm getting one. The owner of the shop and a good friend calls them 'backward tractors'.... Done with zero turns.

 

[Fallon]

Wow, didn't expect so much response and the thumbs up. Thanks!

SSQA was on the list of must haves, I've got it, need forks and SSQA thingie removed forks too, seems like 2 decisions there?

Will read and go slow, avoid tippy areas until I make them not so tippy (even the ZT is scary at times when I don't slow down).

First thing I was tasked with after buying this place was 100 yards of asphalt driveway. In TX - don't have snow, just failed electric

One thing I wanted was R14's, having loaded R4's gives me pause. Flats don't sound like fun. More "what NOT", given I can't reduce weight when it's not needed being delicate???

Tooth bar sounds good, gotta go shopping.

How can I load (a good!) rear/box blade (they are the same, no? Reverse it???) on a quick attach to avoid ballast box? I like versatility for a couple bucks more (not to mention the real estate these things take when idle).

Sorry, have more questions than answers ATM.

Great stuff, keep'em coming!!!

A ballast box is just a heavy thing on your 3pt hitch. A box blade is heavy. Generally they will ge around the same weight. A ballast box is thin steel you fill with dirt, a box blade is heavy steel with no way to fill it with anything. Some people do strap logs or heavy steel bars ontop of a box blade for more weight, but that often puts the box blade beyond its strength capacity.

I built a ballast box & used it maybe twice in 8+ years. It's more compact than other impliments, which is its only value. Handy if you operate in tight areas, but not worth putting on if you are operating the open & have any other impliment on. I just leave my box blade, mower, LPGS, or snowblower on the rear & it ballasts as well if not better than a ballast box.

Always make sure you have proper ballast on the rear & are in 4wd when using the loader. I had a 150lbs gate on the pallet forks, no ballast, no loaded rears & was in 2wd on my old L3200 (Same machine as your L2501). Going down a slight hill the rears lost traction & I put a pair of pallet fork sized holes in the back of the barn. No brakes on the front unless you are in 4wd & no traction on the rears without ballast.

If you lift omething to heavy on the loader with ballast, it won't lift. If you lift something to heavy without enough rear or tire ballast the rear axle comes off the ground, the front axle flops to one side (its just a single pin, nothing else) and the machine rolled over. If in doubt always have excessive ballast. It will save your life & your machine.

SSQA is the quick attach on the loader. AQuick Hitch is something for the 3pt. You'd put pallet forks or a bucket on a SSQA on the loader. A box blade would connect to a 3pt or Quick Hitch. A Quick Hitch makes changing impliments faster, but doesn't fundamentally change anything. If something fits on a QH, it will fit on a standard 3pt. A SSQA impliment will not interchange with a pin on bucket or pallet forks though. If you didn't get a SSQA loader it will be very expensive to convert things or take half an hour & a sledge hammer to change impliments. To go from a 3pt to a quick hitch takes $200 & 15 minutes, trivial to add on later.

A box blade has plates on the side of the blade & moves dirt forward & back. A back blade has no end plates & can be angled to either side. A box blade is a heavier impliment for moving dirt & rocks. A back blade is a light duty impliment that weighs less. It's for moving snow, unpacked gravel or dirt.

 

[jyoutz]

A ballast box is just a heavy thing on your 3pt hitch. A box blade is heavy. Generally they will ge around the same weight. A ballast box is thin steel you fill with dirt, a box blade is heavy steel with no way to fill it with anything. Some people do strap logs or heavy steel bars ontop of a box blade for more weight, but that often puts the box blade beyond its strength capacity.

I built a ballast box & used it maybe twice in 8+ years. It's more compact than other impliments, which is its only value. Handy if you operate in tight areas, but not worth putting on if you are operating the open & have any other impliment on. I just leave my box blade, mower, LPGS, or snowblower on the rear & it ballasts as well if not better than a ballast box.

Always make sure you have proper ballast on the rear & are in 4wd when using the loader. I had a 150lbs gate on the pallet forks, no ballast, no loaded rears & was in 2wd on my old L3200 (Same machine as your L2501). Going down a slight hill the rears lost traction & I put a pair of pallet fork sized holes in the back of the barn. No brakes on the front unless you are in 4wd & no traction on the rears without ballast.

If you lift omething to heavy on the loader with ballast, it won't lift. If you lift something to heavy without enough rear or tire ballast the rear axle comes off the ground, the front axle flops to one side (its just a single pin, nothing else) and the machine rolled over. If in doubt always have excessive ballast. It will save your life & your machine.

SSQA is the quick attach on the loader. AQuick Hitch is something for the 3pt. You'd put pallet forks or a bucket on a SSQA on the loader. A box blade would connect to a 3pt or Quick Hitch. A Quick Hitch makes changing impliments faster, but doesn't fundamentally change anything. If something fits on a QH, it will fit on a standard 3pt. A SSQA impliment will not interchange with a pin on bucket or pallet forks though. If you didn't get a SSQA loader it will be very expensive to convert things or take half an hour & a sledge hammer to change impliments. To go from a 3pt to a quick hitch takes $200 & 15 minutes, trivial to add on later.

A box blade has plates on the side of the blade & moves dirt forward & back. A back blade has no end plates & can be angled to either side. A box blade is a heavier impliment for moving dirt & rocks. A back blade is a light duty impliment that weighs less. It's for moving snow, unpacked gravel or dirt.

It depends on the back blade. Mine weighs 1025# and is certainly not light duty.

 

[5030]

Never run loaded tires or a ballast box. No need, I run cast centers on all 3 of my big Kubota's. When I run big round bales, I have a rear mount spear I hang one on. 2 in the front and one out back.

 

[Fallon]

It depends on the back blade. Mine weighs 1025# and is certainly not light duty.

True. But a 72" wide box blade that weighs 1,000lbs will be stronger than a 72" wide back blade that weighs 1,000lbs. You also really aren't going to find a back blade small enough for a L2501 that is really heavy duty, unlike bigger ones for bigger tractors. They probably exist, but aren't something you can find normally or makes financial sense.

I have both, a 74" old heavy Gannon box blade & new 84" Land Pride back blade. I use the box blade way more. I really only use the back blade for putting a crown on a road or some super light ditching.

 

[jyoutz]

True. But a 72" wide box blade that weighs 1,000lbs will be stronger than a 72" wide back blade that weighs 1,000lbs. You also really aren't going to find a back blade small enough for a L2501 that is really heavy duty, unlike bigger ones for bigger tractors. They probably exist, but aren't something you can find normally or makes financial sense.

I have both, a 74" old heavy Gannon box blade & new 84" Land Pride back blade. I use the box blade way more. I really only use the back blade for putting a crown on a road or some super light ditching.

True about the weight of back blades available for cat 1 tractors. But the longer length does make a superior fulcrum for ballasting the loader and relieving front axle weight. My uses are opposite than yours. I have both and always use the rear blade for road work and seldom use the box blade.