New L6060, what's wrong with my rear remote?

[friendlywithbears]

Hey all,

I just took delivery on a shiny new L6060 (woo!). While most of my implements are back ordered into oblivion, I at least got my hydraulic rear blade to play with. When I started using it I noticed something really funky with my rear remotes. I'm hoping someone could give some feedback on what might be up.

For context, I ordered 3 rear remotes, 2 detent and 1 float. My understanding is that a single float is always installed in position 2. In this video I explain and show what's going on with the three, but in summary, remote 1 and 2 don't have float detents but work fine otherwise, while remote 3 is nearly impossible to move in the back position, as if it's fighting something. If I REALLY put my strength in to it I can make it go but the hydraulics are whining and fighting me.

My engineering mind thinks that they installed the float in remote 3 and maybe backwards, so that pulling back on the remote lever is fighting the float detent in the wrong place.

The dealer rep so far has said that that's just the float valve and that's how it's supposed to be. I am of course pushing back but am hunting for more understanding to help with the diagnosis from-a-distance since I'm so far from the dealer.

Here's the video, and of course a glamor pic

 

[seville009]

Best action to take is just give that tractor to me and go buy a different one.........(ha ha).

nice tractor

I have no answers, but am sure someone will be along soon with some advice.

 

[Bearsixty7]

Reconnect the hoses for remote 3 and retest, one may not be seated or connected fully.

If no change, swap the hoses between remote 3 and 1 or 2 and see if any difference.

 

[Rustyiron]

This is a WAG but try reversing the 2 lines on the 3rd valve that's kinda complaining.
From there you can play with all the positions.
Before you get used to the controls, I'd figure out what function that you'll use the most - to the least and use the level closest to you to the oddball back singular position in that order. I have 3 remotes and.... that's just the way I think.

 

[newbury]

Brand new??
Get the dealer out there, IF you change ANYTHING they can blame it on you.

 

[5030]

If it's squealing, you are deadheading the pump. Not good and will eventually either destroy the pump or pop a hose. Both My M's have triple remotes and the float remote is on the top of the stack with a flow control just under it.

 

[friendlywithbears]

Reconnect the hoses for remote 3 and retest, one may not be seated or connected fully.

If no change, swap the hoses between remote 3 and 1 or 2 and see if any difference.

I'll definitely give both of those a try, thanks.

 

[friendlywithbears]

If it's squealing, you are deadheading the pump. Not good and will eventually either destroy the pump or pop a hose. Both My M's have triple remotes and the float remote is on the top of the stack with a flow control just under it.

That was my worry. I'll fiddle with the hoses to see if there's any issue there.

When you say "top of stack with a flow control just under it", can you clarify what you mean by that?

 

[Rustyiron]

On the rear of the tractor the "stack" of valves and couplers that your levers are connected to.

 

[LouNY]

For your float position it may take a push past the operate position to get to the float mode.
Number three check the hoses if that doesn't fix it get the dealers rep out to check it out.

 

[jonsstihl]

they are paired side to side not up and down so one function would get plugged in to the top right and top left outlet easy to mix up if you only have two remotes

for what it is worth mine has three remotes. One float the others regular (no detent), with the float detent valve installed in the middle but I was not aware that there was a requirement to install the float in the middle. Bought mine used so it was like that when I bought it.

 

[ovrszd]

A couple thoughts.

The single valve that comes standard on the tractor is a self canceling valve. It requires significant force to set the lever in the self canceling mode. It feels similar to a detent. It's on both ends of the lever movement. If the lever isn't set into the self canceling detent hydraulic movement is minimal and seemingly powerless. The single standard equipment valve should be in the lower position of the stack.

The 2nd optional valve is normally a float valve. Detent/float on the lower/forward position of the lever.

The 3rd optional valve is normally a float valve. Detent/float on the lower/forward position of the lever.

Another option is a "flow control valve". It would be in the stack, in your case, between the 2nd and 3rd valves. It has a knob adjuster and does just what the name implies. It restricts the flow in the 3rd valve. If it is partially closed it will considerably slow flow. If almost completely closed will cause relief valve squealing. Will all have a dramatic affect on the function of the lever because you're pushing against an almost dead system.

I'm attaching a pic that might/might not be helpful.

Notice the difference in valve design between the bottom one which is self canceling and the next two up which are detent valves. This might help you confirm that yours are assembled in the right order. I added mine myself. In the instructions it was adamant about order of the stack.

Also notice I do not have a "flow control valve" between the top two valves.

 

[ovrszd]

When you say "top of stack with a flow control just under it", can you clarify what you mean by that?

Hopefully I clarified that? If not, here's an operator's manual pic of the flow control valve.

 

[5030]

On the rear of the tractor the "stack" of valves and couplers that your levers are connected to.

Exactly, however, I also have a flow control valve under the top remote because I use the top remote to drive my grain leg (hydraulic motor) and my post pounder too. The flow control valve allows me to regulate the fluid flow and change the speed of the hydraulic motor on the gran leg and the cycle time of the post pounder. Kubota has a flow control valve but I believe it's a dealer installed item.

Always spec my units with the max amount of remotes available. One never knows when you need than plus they increase the resale value as well, just like my 2 speed PTO's do I run both a 540 6 spline and a 1000 21 spline stub.

One of my buddies has a JD late model track machine with 12 sets of remotes.

 

[5030]

Pretty easy to add (or remove valves) on a Kubota because of the design. The valve aren't cheap but all the required block off plates are already there, even if you don't have any remotes (which I consider foolish savings) anyway.

 

[RickB]

The OP has a Grand L. Posting info that relates to M series tractors will have limited value and may lead to misunderstandings and confusion on the part of a Grand L owner.
It is a new tractor, the dealer should be consulted immediately.

 

[5030]

The OP has a Grand L. Posting info that relates to M series tractors will have limited value and may lead to misunderstandings and confusion on the part of a Grand L owner.
It is a new tractor, the dealer should be consulted immediately.

All Kubota remotes feed the same way (far as I'm aware of at least) , off the top of the rockshaft casting. Grand L included. The remote receptacles may side mount on some but the fluid feed is the same.

 

[ovrszd]

The OP has a Grand L. Posting info that relates to M series tractors will have limited value and may lead to misunderstandings and confusion on the part of a Grand L owner.
It is a new tractor, the dealer should be consulted immediately.

Dang it, I did not know that. And didn't intend to confuse the situation.

I agree, visit the dealer. Just hoping it is an "operator error" situation and could be resolved on his own.

Sorry for the confusion OP.

 

[IH3444]

Now that's a properly sized tractor to house ratio!

 

[Smily0]

I have an L6060 (3.5 years old now) with 3/all float valves. All three valves have the float detent when pushing the lever forward. Each moves easily forward and reverse, and don't take much force to go into float mode either, but enough you don't accidentally float when you don't mean to (maybe once or twice ever for me).

Depending on how the tractor was acquired, valves could have been factory or dealer installed. In my example, I ordered with 3 floats. The dealer was able to transfer it from another dealer still in the shipping crate so I didn't have to wait on factory build. I tested it after getting home and found only remotes 2/3 were float and 1 was not. Dealer tech told me that's how it is and that you couldn't have a float in #1. I argued, and they took it back and replaced it. Kind of frustrating they didn't actually replace what was there, even though I paid extra for the floats, until I raised a stink about it.

Also, all three remotes leak down over time. I see it in my top and tilt kit, especially with heavy attachments. I can't leave the tilt cylinder connected with my 8' 3 point brushhog. It will drop down in 15-20 minutes or less. I can set the angle I want and disconnect (As you see in the picture below) and it holds fine. The dealer took it back, replaced a couple remotes and had the same issue. They tested another L6060 and saw the same thing. I never did get a fix other than disconnect.

The remotes on the Grand L are different than the M. The outlets are remote from the valves. Check and be sure hoses are connected correctly. You can fairly easily remove the plastic cover over the levers to see linkages and check those as well. (I put in a new radio, speakers, and powered subwoofer under the air ride seat, so i've taken those apart a few times, haha). Let me know if you need any other pictures or info, and I'll do my best to get what I can.