Oil & Fuel New to me YM2500

[Brokeodie]

So tonight I did pour clean diesel just to flush the system but did not run the tractor. Couple of gallons then drain and did this till it was coming relatively clear of milkshake. I am leaving the plugs open so that it finishes draining overnight. I will fill with proper fluid in the morning and then let it run with fresh fluid. Hopefully this will continue cleaning out the system and I can then drain and clean filter etc. The filter when I took it out was filthy and slimy so I'm sure it will be the same. So does anyone have an idea of how many gallons is required for the minimum amount of fluid with a fel as i don't want to use all 5 gal. Just for the run and flush. Also if i do this is there any caveats in doing this or should I just put the right amount an run it for a few hours?

Thank you all in advance

 

[California]

Seems to me that just enough fluid so the pump can pick it up reliably while exercising the loader and 3-point, is sufficient. Maybe a couple of gallons. Listen for pump cavitation. I think the larger reservoir capacity is just to shed heat, so not relevant for this.

Particularly for a Powershift model, circulating (engine running) enough changes of clean fluid until what you drain is clean, is the goal.

You mentioned hours but I think at least the initial flush can be shorter than that since it's just to push out the ugliest stuff.

 

[ponytug]

Rinsing it out with diesel should have helped get any grunge out.

Yes, I don't think that you don't need to run it for hours, and I don't think you should. First pass, the goals is to get cleaner fluid out to all of your circuits (your cylinders, FEL & 3PT), which do need to be cycled a few times for that to happen. Any amount of grunge that gets suspended is a bonus. Drain, clean the filter, and check for milkshake/grunge. If you still have grunge or milkshake, then repeat, but I doubt that you will. If you don't, fill it up, use it for a few hours, drain while hot, clean the filter, refill it and call it good.

FWIW: I don't think that you have to fill it all the way the first time, but I don't think it hurts either.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Brokeodie]

So this morning I closed every thing up put the filter in etc after letting it drain all night. put fluid in and started it up. So now the 3point works, and the loader with no noises and working smooth. I am going to post a video with it running shortly and hopefully it sounds normal for a 3cyl. the next thing to sort out is throttle control because if I press the accelerator it is sluggish to respond and when I let it go the idle drops down and will shut off the tractor if I don't press it back in full throttle. I've never owned a tractor and this might be normal. I did check the linkage and it looked all intact.

Back to figuring it out with your help which is much appreciated.

 

[Brokeodie]

Here is a video of it running.

New video · Monday, Sep 13, 2021 ð¬

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photos.app.goo.gl

 

[bmaverick]

So this morning I closed every thing up put the filter in etc after letting it drain all night. put fluid in and started it up. So now the 3point works, and the loader with no noises and working smooth. I am going to post a video with it running shortly and hopefully it sounds normal for a 3cyl. the next thing to sort out is throttle control because if I press the accelerator it is sluggish to respond and when I let it go the idle drops down and will shut off the tractor if I don't press it back in full throttle. I've never owned a tractor and this might be normal. I did check the linkage and it looked all intact.

Back to figuring it out with your help which is much appreciated.

Per Winston's posted diagram, friction washers or a spring keeps the throttle lever from slipping back below idle. Mine slips from 1400rpms to just the idle detent. I know, I got to check mine out too. BUT, mine doesn't slipp past the detent to turn off. Thus, you have 2 issues to contend with.

OK, I'll next listen to the engine vid as we both have the SAME engine.

 

[bmaverick]

Here is a video of it running.

New video · Monday, Sep 13, 2021 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

Hmmm. What RPM speed was it set to? Sounds more like 2200RPMs. A bit high for idle. Per the manuals for the YM2500 and the JD850, the idle is to be in the range of 800 to 1,200 RPMs.

Your exhaust has a tin can sound, and looking at the exhaust muffler, it tells the reason why. My 3T80 has the closest aftermarket exhaust muffler and sounds more in tune to the engine. The vid didn't show the top of the exhaust pipe. Is it a bent over pipe or does it have the clapper hinged lid cover? It sounds 'alright', but I never run my machine at high RPMs just sitting there. There is a vibration noise from a panel or something hearing it run that high.

You are right, under the seat has no spring shield over the spring.

Ah really nice! You have the right lift arm EZ crank adjuster like the John Deere machines.

I would strongly recommend a PTO shield knowing you have a mower attachment. AND - - - at the present time, DO NOT hook up that mower to the tractor until you have one of these on the PTO spindle shaft out the back end.

Over-running coupler - OR-660 - Fredricks Equipment Parts

Description: Over-running coupler - QD, quick disconnect 1-3/8” 6 spline X 1-3/8” 6 spline Applications: All Yanmars Part Number N/A

fredricksequipment.com

These Gray Market machines have no overrun protection. Running the PTO without one can cause serious injury or tractor total failure in the gearbox costing a few thousand to repair.

 

[Brokeodie]

It did have the idle pretty high, I will get a video of the sound when the idle is lower and what it sounds like when the pedal is pressed. Also yes the exhaust is a bent over no flapper. I do have a PTO Shield and the overrun clutch that need to be installed but thank you for the information as safety for me is number #1. As soon as I get the tractor working fully I am also getting the ROPS when it comes back in stock.

 

[bmaverick]

It did have the idle pretty high, I will get a video of the sound when the idle is lower and what it sounds like when the pedal is pressed. Also yes the exhaust is a bent over no flapper. I do have a PTO Shield and the overrun clutch that need to be installed but thank you for the information as safety for me is number #1. As soon as I get the tractor working fully I am also getting the ROPS when it comes back in stock.

Oh, I'm not a fan of that bent over pipe because water can still get into the engine and make it rust and then seize if it sat too long. The flapper works really well. Otherwise, like many farmers do, they put a soup can over the top when it's parked and not running.

Good to hear on the other safety items. Your are already ahead. For the OverRun clutch, It's on the machine 24/7. no need to take it off. IT works on all my PTO driven attachments.

As for ROPs, you have a slew of options. Both Yanmar domestic, Yanmar aftermarket via Custom Products with Fredricks and with John Deere 50 Series compacts. (not the 50 Series huge machines LOL) Some are foldable, some are goal posts and some are just a looped bar pipe. When I had my JD850, looking for a ROPs provided a few nice options.

 

[Brokeodie]

So I had a bit of time to go out and see if i could get the idle sorted. But can't find the reason. If i drive the tractor around it runs fine but there is not pedal response and or you will hear it surge then drop in rpms. I took a video of me pressing the accelerator and then you can hear it fumble. I then save it by pulling the lever. I then slowly move the lever forward to try and get to a lower idle but you can hear it lower and surge till it eventually dies when the rps are around 1200. My next step is to put a clear hose and make sure there are no bubbles in the lines etc but i find it hard to believe as it runs awesome when at 2200 rpms or pto speed.

Here is the link to the video.

New video · Thursday, Sep 16, 2021 ð¬

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photos.app.goo.gl

 

[ponytug]

Speaking from experience, a pin hole air leak can cause very weird behavior in a diesel; stumbles at lower speed, stumbles under load, excessive fuel usage, and overheating exhaust. All caused by poor injection behavior of the fuel being too compressible with the trace of air in it.

Good luck!

All the best,

Peter

 

[bmaverick]

When the engine is running, I keep hearing that 'tinned' sound. Our machines have the same engine and at the very low idle it sounds like my engine, but increasing the RPMs it sounds so strange.

There is a governor rod inside the engine at the very bottom and to the governor at the back of the engine. Pulling off the bottom oil pan you can examine this. The trouble is, you will then need a replacement gasket for that pan cover.

If that rod is bent or not correct, it would explain why the engine drops to idle.

With the throttle linkages, are there and weak springs?

Check out the attachments.

The YM2500 came in 3 variations. YM2500, YM2500L and YM2500R.

And take a look at item-13 on pg-11.

 

[Brokeodie]

Thank you both.. i am going to make sure there is no air in fuel problems. I have a fuel pump I'm thinking of throwing in to see if that corrects the issue. I'm also wondering if the pinging sound could be an injection pump timing issue so even though it's not smoking i should check that. Trying to rule out the external stuff before I start tearing into it or paying to have someone tear into it.

 

[ponytug]

I don't hear the "tinny" sounds, but I do see/hear the collapse as the throttle drifts down.

Continuing @bmaverick's thoughts on sticky governors, I wondered if there might be gunk elsewhere. These machines were design for high lubricity (aka high sulfur) diesel. As the tractor is new to you, have you run a double dose of injector clear through the system yet, and are you adding something to boost the lubricity of the fuel? (E.g. 2% Biodiesel, opti-lube, Standyne, Powerkleen)

After it making a big difference to an old engine, I am a fan of Tuffoil for when things are sticky and just "ADR" ("ain't doin' right"). I'm not generally a fan of additives, but that one is always in my personal toolbox for getting things to run more smoothly. A little goes a long way.

All the best,

Peter

 

[CoyPatton]

I agree about additives, typically I am not a fan. That said there are times they area must! Some that come to mind with fuel are 1) older diesels that were designed around high sulfur fuel and today’s ultra low sulfur fuels—sulfur was a great lubricate in fuel, terrible for the air as an exhaust. Use an additive for extra lube 2) anti-gelling—summer fuel will have very little if any, it is a pain to need your tractor in a winter day and fuel gelled in the lines. 3) I have rebuilt a few older engines designed around high lead content in fuels of the day. The non lead fuels of today are hard on these old engines. If you have one, get the additive!
I running a lube additive in my early 80’s model diesel tractor with every tank full. Plenty of brands out there for you to pick from.

 

[Brokeodie]

Hi Peter,

I am already using 20% biodiesel and will put in some Opti-Lube. The fuel pump is a fresh rebuild and the injectors are new. Because it runs fine at high rpms I don't think its a fuel starvations issue. So I am left with, governor, throttle linkage, or lines causing minute air bubbles. When I took the inspection plate off and fuel pump to send it off I was surprised how clean the interior was. There is some slop on the linkage going into the motor and even that could be the cause but am trying to rule out all of the outside things before I go inside.

But as always appreciate the comments as they always help keep me going.

 

[ponytug]

Having the inspection area and fuel pump look clean is certainly a good sign, whatever the issue is.

I am assuming that you don't have any existing fuel wet spots.

When you go over the fuel system looking for leaks, I would suggest loosening and then tightening each fitting sequentially from the fuel tank onward and listen if the engine has a problem. I would also disassemble and double check the fuel filter gasket and gasket surfaces for any crease, scratch, grit, or hair. It is a common place to get an air leak because of the vacuum. The same on the pressure side, loosen each nut, let diesel weep out and tighten it. Sometimes, it is a little grit on the fitting surface and cracking the fitting open flushes diesel out under high pressure and dislodges the offender. At the same time, if you loosen a fitting and it doesn't get worse, but the corresponding ones do, that suggests that that particular fuel line/fitting is your problem child.

Wear gloves when working on the high pressure side for protection against any high pressure streams of fuel.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Pearlsnaps]

Mine was air in the fuel. After replacing all of the lines, emptying the tank to clean it, and starting over with new diesel and new lines.... I also made this contraption based on some other threads i read with "ghost" air in the lines. Basically, I couldn't locate where the air was coming from prior to the injector pump. New fuel filter after this photo as well.
Just ran for over an hour for the 1st time in 9 months... The top line is Teed into the fuel return line going back to the tank. Hope this helps ya.

 

[Brokeodie]

So quick update:
I may have figured out the problem. The fuel filter assembly was missing o-rings on the bleeder screws and the fuel shut off lever's o-ring had some flat spots. Going to harbor freight to pick up an o-ring kit and hope there are some that will fit as i can't seem to find the proper size in the parts catalog.

 

[bmaverick]

So quick update:
I may have figured out the problem. The fuel filter assembly was missing o-rings on the bleeder screws and the fuel shut off lever's o-ring had some flat spots. Going to harbor freight to pick up an o-ring kit and hope there are some that will fit as i can't seem to find the proper size in the parts catalog.

Whoa, make sure you buy o-rings that are rated for diesel fuel. You don't want them to turn mushy and chemically melt away in the fuel. You'll have a gummy up mess.

You must understand o-ring compatibility before just running down to H-F.

Buna-N or Nitrile is highly resistant to hydrocarbons. The greater the nitrile content in the material, the greater the resistance to decay in a hydrocarbon environment. It's one of the most highly used seal materials in the oil and gas industry. Long as your o-ring is the correct size, buna-n should hold up just fine to diesel fuel.