New Tractor Break-in procedure

[buickanddeere]

Take it out,use it and make it work. If you baby it, idle it or use it in short duty operation without warming up. It's not good for any engine new or old.
Break in is much less of a concern now than it was in the bad old days decades ago.

 

[RalphVa]

Don't think many manufacturers are still using break-in oil. Our VW Jetta TDI didn't. First oil change was 10k miles, same as following ones.

Think my 1025 manual says 50 hrs for the engine oil and now up to 200 hours for the hydraulic oil. I changed it at 13 hours on the 4010 but wished I'd waited the 50 hrs. It always had a tad of blue smoke on real cold startup. Figured the rings didn't get set in really good by my changing it too quickly. I'm not changing this one's oil until the 50 hrs. is up. Same thing on my diesel generator. Its oil dipstick still shows completely water-color-clear oil at 15 hrs.

Ralph

 

[RedEye2013]

Changing the oil more frequently than manufacturer's recommendations is just a total waste of money and our natural resources. FOLLOW THE OWNERS MANUAL, they give the changes needed for heavy duty work and you should not do any extra oil changes between the specified times. The only thing you need to do is keep the oil level checked, tighten up wheel bolts after 20 to 50 hours of use. If you have an FEL, check all of the bolts after 10 hours of use and again about every 50 hours of use. Grease the joints every 10 hours of FEL or backhoe use (if you are just using the tractor for mowing and not using the FEL, then no need to grease.

I'm another new tractor owner (new machine + first tractor). My JD 5065E arrived in November 2013, but I finally got an owner's manual this week. I've been using her to plow snow, and getting ready to move hay bales. So far I've also "enjoyed" an electrical fire in the battery box (due to improperly installed negative cable becoming pinched by the FEL), and a coolant leak (apparently common according to threads on here). Around 25 hours today.
Reading my manual I see that I have few things to catch up on: greasing, tightening, checking fluid levels, etc.

Question: the torque specs for MFWD and rear axle wheel bolts range from 180 to 408 lb-ft. Where did y'all get a decent torque wrench for these values, and how accurate are you really?
I have a couple of good lower end torque wrenches from motorcycle and sports car days, but nothing with ranges as high as that. (And the highest accuracy is achieved by wrenches where your target torque is in the middle of the tool's range.)

Thanks!

== Redeye2013

 

[sixdogs]

Redeye--408 ft lbs for wheel bolts is an impact gun and a little experience.

 

[JimRB]

Or a 2 foot breaker bar that a 200 pound person stands on. When I would break free those high torque fasteners I would support the socket end with a floor jack or blocks of wood so I could stand on the breaker bar.

 

[TripleR]

I recently ordered a torque wrench from TheToolWarehouse.net upon recommendation of a professional mechanic, I am getting a K-D, OTC also is a good reasonably priced tool. I really didn't want to spring for a Snap-on.

 

[Gary Fowler]

My torque wrench is a 3/4" drive 650 pound feet of torque from an impact gun. I just watch the socket turn about an 1/8 round after it gets snug and then I know it is tight. For bolts that I cant use the impact gun on, it is all the muscle I can put on a standard wrench for the big stuff which for my 64 year old muscles isn't over torqueing but it is all it gets so it has to be good. I rarely use a cheater bar except when needed to remove a bolt or nut. So far this has worked for me. For small stuff, I find that my muscle memory from years of tightening bolts gets the job done quite well without a torque wrench. I haven't twisted off a bolt since I was a teen ager and just learning about how much pressure a bolt can take.
I try to use power wrenches, i.e. impact guns 3/8" for small stuff and 3/4" for the large bolts , 3/8" air ratchets, battery powered drills with socket or nut driver, as much as possible.

Tractors and implement bolts aren't going to the moon on a rocket ship and not much need in treating them as such. I suppose if one cant tell when a bolt is tight enough, then an implement/machine to do that for him would be ok, but I have never needed them for tractor and farm implement repair.

 

[ff1221]

My 4320 arrived a month ago and it's used for snow removal so the break in was basically wide open. Had it's first oil change at 70 hrs as per the dealers recommendations (actually they recommend 50hrs) and now it has around 150hrs and runs like a top. I've always been a firm believer in break it in how you are going to use it.

 

[BlackRaptor]

I changed my engine oil at 50 hour. I was going change the hydro fluid too but thanks to the people in this forum they said it would be a total waste. I plan to change my hydro fluid in the spring at 150 hours. With engine oil I seem to only put on about 100 hours a year so I change the engine oil yearly vs by hours.

 

[DarkBlack]

If you have the itch to do some good early, change your filters. The oil is still good.