New tractor purchase

[Randy52]

I bought a TYM 394 cab and loader a year ago. Love the tractor plenty of power good heater and ac. Paid $24,800 and $280 more for rim guard in back tires.

 

[JWR]

Regarding tires. I am quite **** about my lawn but not sure I just want turf tires. Will R4's in two wheel drive while on the lawn do damage? Sorry if this is a really dumb question, I'm only familiar with the turf tires on my BX2200.

That is a VERY pertinent question. If your 5 acres is not steep and you do not plan to do snow removal or a lot of front end loader work or pulling and tugging you are probably best off with turf tires. If you do much loader work and ANY snow removal get at least R4's if not R-1 AG tires. The R-1s would be very rough on your lawn. The R-4s also but not as bad and the the R-3 turf tires are obviously protective of your lawn.

The new machine being heavier would do some noticeable marking anywhere you make turns using using R-4 and very noticeable using R-1s. Very bad.

Are you not keeping the BX2200? Do you plan to get a belly mower for the new machine?

Tires can be a rather expensive topic on these tractors and even a good sized dealer may balk at doing a lot for you on swapping tire types. Best to find a machine that already has what you want on it, if you can, other things being equal.

By the way, in what part of the country are located? Many folks commenting form picture of what you re dealing with somewhat based on your locale.

 

[Duds13]

I bought a TYM 394 cab and loader a year ago. Love the tractor plenty of power good heater and ac. Paid $24,800 and $280 more for rim guard in back tires.

Nice looking rig!

 

[Duds13]

That is a VERY pertinent question. If your 5 acres is not steep and you do not plan to do snow removal or a lot of front end loader work or pulling and tugging you are probably best off with turf tires. If you do much loader work and ANY snow removal get at least R4's if not R-1 AG tires. The R-1s would be very rough on your lawn. The R-4s also but not as bad and the the R-3 turf tires are obviously protective of your lawn.

The new machine being heavier would do some noticeable marking anywhere you make turns using using R-4 and very noticeable using R-1s. Very bad.

Are you not keeping the BX2200? Do you plan to get a belly mower for the new machine?

Tires can be a rather expensive topic on these tractors and even a good sized dealer may balk at doing a lot for you on swapping tire types. Best to find a machine that already has what you want on it, if you can, other things being equal.

By the way, in what part of the country are located? Many folks commenting form picture of what you re dealing with somewhat based on your locale.

90% of my property is relatively flat and has a stone path around the entire perimeter. (I make maple syrup so the path was put in place by the original owners for sap collection). The property does sit on top of a ridge and a section of that is far too steep for any sort of tractor. I have a Honda Foreman 4 wheeler that can navigate that slope easily though. One task I had in mind for the bucket other than firewood chores was picking up branches that constantly come down in storms and when we mulch the various flower gardens on the property and then in the fall when we cut everything down. I do plan on keeping the BX2200 so I could always use that and tow the dump cart behind it which is what we do now. I have a belly mower and bagger system for the BX so no plans on getting a belly mower for the new rig. I should add that I mow with a Ferris ztr, the BX will only be used in the fall for some leaf pick up and then for snow blowing in the winter.

I am in Charlton, NY which is close to the Saratoga region.

 

[TractorTYMe]

I bought a TYM 394 cab and loader a year ago. Love the tractor plenty of power good heater and ac. Paid $24,800 and $280 more for rim guard in back tires.

Nice unit for a good price indeed.

 

[JWR]

90% of my property is relatively flat and has a stone path around the entire perimeter. (I make maple syrup so the path was put in place by the original owners for sap collection). The property does sit on top of a ridge and a section of that is far too steep for any sort of tractor. I have a Honda Foreman 4 wheeler that can navigate that slope easily though. One task I had in mind for the bucket other than firewood chores was picking up branches that constantly come down in storms and when we mulch the various flower gardens on the property and then in the fall when we cut everything down. I do plan on keeping the BX2200 so I could always use that and tow the dump cart behind it which is what we do now. I have a belly mower and bagger system for the BX so no plans on getting a belly mower for the new rig. I should add that I mow with a Ferris ztr, the BX will only be used in the fall for some leaf pick up and then for snow blowing in the winter.

I am in Charlton, NY which is close to the Saratoga region.

Very interesting. Nice environs! Given that circumstance (basically not needing to operate the new machine on the lawn much) I'd recommend the R-4 tires or R-1. Not turf tires. You know the pros and cons there. I hope the new machine will have at least one hydraulic remote (?) Those are not cheap but well worthwhile in the long run. Cleaning up fallen branches and general debris works with a front end loader bucket BUT you will want a grapple attachment for the loader if you do much of that ! I'm hoping the tractor you buy has the skid-steer-quick-attach (SSQA) interface for attaching the bucket and other future things into the loader. There are SO MANY attachments and goodies that can go on there if you have the SSQA. The grapple attachments are real common and available in a wide range of sizes/brands/features.

You have a snow blower for the BX2200? Might it fit the new machine? You probably know all too well the snow turns to ice quickly under those turf tires on the BX2200. All the more reason to go to R-1 on the new one if that fits your plans. I switched my (limited, in the mountains only) snow blowing to one of my B2150 Kubotas that has R-1 AG tires and away from using one that had turf tires. HUGE difference. I used it last week in 16" of lightly packed snow with great pleasure...

 

[Duds13]

Very interesting. Nice environs! Given that circumstance (basically not needing to operate the new machine on the lawn much) I'd recommend the R-4 tires or R-1. Not turf tires. You know the pros and cons there. I hope the new machine will have at least one hydraulic remote (?) Those are not cheap but well worthwhile in the long run. Cleaning up fallen branches and general debris works with a front end loader bucket BUT you will want a grapple attachment for the loader if you do much of that ! I'm hoping the tractor you buy has the skid-steer-quick-attach (SSQA) interface for attaching the bucket and other future things into the loader. There are SO MANY attachments and goodies that can go on there if you have the SSQA. The grapple attachments are real common and available in a wide range of sizes/brands/features.

You have a snow blower for the BX2200? Might it fit the new machine? You probably know all too well the snow turns to ice quickly under those turf tires on the BX2200. All the more reason to go to R-1 on the new one if that fits your plans. I switched my (limited, in the mountains only) snow blowing to one of my B2150 Kubotas that has R-1 AG tires and away from using one that had turf tires. HUGE difference. I used it last week in 16" of lightly packed snow with great pleasure...

I was seriously thinking about the grapple attachment, they look awesome and would be perfect for holding logs at a height for easy cutting into 16 inch lengths for splitting. I plan on visiting the store on Saturday so I will definitely inquire about the SSQA interface.

Yeah the snow blower for the BX2200 is the BX2750D I believe. I could be wrong though trying to go off memory. I am VERY well aware of how quickly snow turns to ice on the BX, lol. My driveway is stone, so the snow blower has slides on it which always leaves about 1/2" of snow to prevent the stones from being thrown around. The driveway circles around a barn and has two hills, so there are times I think I could hold the Olympic luge and bobsled, lol. The BX in 4WD does quite well though and really only slips on the one side of the driveway going uphill.

 

[Duds13]

Wanted to provide an update. Put down a deposit on a the Kioti CK2610 today. Got the FEL and 60" rotary cutter, and had a few other options added as well. Going to order a 54" grapple from MTL attachments too. Should hopefully take delivery of the tractor in April! Many to thanks to everyone here for providing advice and knowledge. I'll post pics when I have it!

 

[Jstpssng]

Going to order a 54" grapple from MTL attachments too.

That's what I have. If I were to do it again I would go with a 48" instead. All that extra 6 inches does is cost a bit more and add to the weight; it really isn't necessary.

That 2610 is a nice sized tractor. If I'd had more time to look around a few years ago when I realized I needed to upgrade I would have looked at a geared version of it... Kubotas of that size don't have a live PTO. I don't worry about emissions the way that some here do, but the specs are very similar to my old Kubota L275, which I really liked. I've only had my 3301 about three years and still haven't gotten used to the hydro. I still sometimes find myself clutching to stop, but at least I don't stall it as much as I used to.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Congrats! Post some pics when it arrives!

 

[cathy liebchen]

Disagree. Yes, shear pins are common on smaller 4 and 5 ft rotary cutters. The idea that they are "less maintenance" is the opposite of my experience. Slip clutches are reliable, once set correctly protect your driveline forever with no dicking around with them. They are standard on ALL larger cutters for a reason. Simply cutting corners and holding down price when shear bolts are used on the smaller cutters. Shear bolts if they ever get the slightest bit loose WILL shear. They are a PITA to replace. Often metric versus English confusion. Get the wrong one and have to replace it again. Unless they fit real snug they keep on shearing and = blasted nuisances. Any normal slip clutch adjusted to the instructions ONCE will squeak instantly when you suddenly engage the cutter and that becomes your familiar audible sign that all is well. I have had hours of wasted nuisance time with shear bolts. Never ever any maintenance waste of time with a slip clutch.

Nothing wrong with Woods. Basic cutters. If you are going to use the cutter a huge amount as your main tool then it is worth it to shop more. I recommend you shop around and find a cutter that is a little stronger and you really like. Many good brands. Bush Hog, Landpride, Deere, Kodiak, etc. all good. You pretty much get what you pay for too. Depends a lot on your intended use (light brush, weeds, heavier brush, saplings, grass, etc.) as well as how much of your time.

Brown makes the heaviest duty cutter. It’s a lifetime purchase

 

[hornett22]

That's what I have. If I were to do it again I would go with a 48" instead. All that extra 6 inches does is cost a bit more and add to the weight; it really isn't necessary.

That 2610 is a nice sized tractor. If I'd had more time to look around a few years ago when I realized I needed to upgrade I would have looked at a geared version of it... Kubotas of that size don't have a live PTO. I don't worry about emissions the way that some here do, but the specs are very similar to my old Kubota L275, which I really liked. I've only had my 3301 about three years and still haven't gotten used to the hydro. I still sometimes find myself clutching to stop, but at least I don't stall it as much as I used to.

The weight difference isn't that much and it's nice to have the ability to see it. I have the 60" because at the time, it was all they had in stock. I'm glad I got the 60".

 

[Duds13]

That's what I have. If I were to do it again I would go with a 48" instead. All that extra 6 inches does is cost a bit more and add to the weight; it really isn't necessary.

That 2610 is a nice sized tractor. If I'd had more time to look around a few years ago when I realized I needed to upgrade I would have looked at a geared version of it... Kubotas of that size don't have a live PTO. I don't worry about emissions the way that some here do, but the specs are very similar to my old Kubota L275, which I really liked. I've only had my 3301 about three years and still haven't gotten used to the hydro. I still sometimes find myself clutching to stop, but at least I don't stall it as much as I used to.

The 54" is only $50 more than the 48". I can't imagine it weighs much more either.

 

[hornett22]

I'm not completely opposed to a slip clutch but they have been known to seize if not used regularly. Could be catastrophic damage if it doesn't slip.

Shear pins will ALWAYS shear.

 

[ptsg]

I'm not completely opposed to a slip clutch but they have been known to seize if not used regularly. Could be catastrophic damage if it doesn't slip.

Shear pins will ALWAYS shear.

I 100% agree with this. Specially if it's an implement that sits for long periods of time in between use. For something used regularly, a slip clutch will work just fine.

On the other hand, I would probably get fed up really quickly with that style of shear pin you guys use there, where the broken piece gets stuck in the input shaft of the gearbox.

This is the style we use here and it's just a breeze to use. Easy, fast and simple to change the shear bolt. Just two wrenches needed and a set of pliers to take the nut off the broken stub if you're cheap as me that reuse the nut a couple times before swapping to a new one.

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[Hoodoo]

Wanted to provide an update. Put down a deposit on a the Kioti CK2610 today. Got the FEL and 60" rotary cutter, and had a few other options added as well. Going to order a 54" grapple from MTL attachments too. Should hopefully take delivery of the tractor in April! Many to thanks to everyone here for providing advice and knowledge. I'll post pics when I have it!

Congrats! I just received my 2610 a week ago and have been sleeping in it ever since..... I got the FEL, Operator Canopy and Box Scraper. Will pick up a rotary cutter used when I see one (my neighbor got a used one from a rental place for $150). So far, other than basic property maintenance, I've even cleared a rear acre to use as a riding arena. That would have taken me months to do by hand! I love tractors.....

 

[Tx Jim]

I'm not completely opposed to a slip clutch but they have been known to seize if not used regularly. Could be catastrophic damage if it doesn't slip.

Shear pins will ALWAYS shear.

PTO slip clutches need periodic service to be sure the plates haven't seized. These preventive services are very similar to changing engine & trans oils.

 

[hornett22]

PTO slip clutches need periodic service to be sure the plates haven't seized. These preventive services are very similar to changing engine & trans oils.

I'm completely aware of that. If you forget or don't use your rotary cutter often, it could be bad news.

Shear bolts ALWAYS work. Always.

 

[hornett22]

I 100% agree with this. Specially if it's an implement that sits for long periods of time in between use. For something used regularly, a slip clutch will work just fine.

On the other hand, I would probably get fed up really quickly with that style of shear pin you guys use there, where the broken piece gets stuck in the input shaft of the gearbox.

This is the style we use here and it's just a breeze to use. Easy, fast and simple to change the shear bolt. Just two wrenches needed and a set of pliers to take the nut off the broken stub if you're cheap as me that reuse the nut a couple times before swapping to a new one.

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I keep a big punch and hammer on hand. Only time I've had difficulty is when someone uses a higher grade bolt than a shear bolt. Then they tend to bend as well as shear. Can require quite a bit more persuasion.

 

[Duds13]

You guys are making me wish i got a cutter without a slip clutch! lol