New Trailer For My BX

surfran · Apr 23, 2005

John,

I used 3x3 1/2"x 1/4" steel plates. Also with the exception of the very front 2 I made sure that one lip of the backer plates overlapped the c-channel underneath so that it had additional strength. I didn't do the front ones that way because they didn't use c-channel up front. I may end up changing them to drill down through the aluminum tube but I don't intend to use them for the tractor so I am not sure.

Here is a picture of the backing plates I used. If you would like I can snap a picture of them under the trailer. I also used some foam between the steel and aluminum to try and prevent corrosion.

johnday · Apr 23, 2005

Randy; Hey if you get a chance I'd like to see that angle too. How thick is the aluminum tube you may windup drilling? I never noticed before, but it seems like a lot of guys lay their buckets on the deck the same way you do. I usually curl mine all the way forward thinking it might help with fuel usage. Then I use the tiedowns in front by dragging my chains around the axle and over the bucket. Think I'll try when the weather get better like you and others. Since my flatbed is open, I'll just try to use the stake pockets, but I'm not above welding something on. Thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

surfran · Apr 27, 2005

John,

Sorry for the delay in posting, weather hasn't been nice enough to go get a picture. Heres one of the plate from under the trailer. You can see I was able to get a portion over the c-channel. As for the bucket, I hadn't given it much thought as I have only trailered it on my old one and it was resting on the gate so gas mileage wasn't considered.

If I end changing the front two the tube I will need to drill is a 1 1/2 "x 1"rectangular tube.

johnday · Apr 27, 2005

Hi Randy; No problem on the timing. This is only a suggestion, and probably overkill with the weight you're hauling, But would it be possible to straddle the crossmember with your tiedown? Even youself or have someone weld in a piece to box in the crossmember at the point you straddle it with the tiedown? I'm no injunear, but that might give you alot of strength on your tiedown. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

surfran · Apr 27, 2005

It would definately give more strength and I thought about all the different way to do it, but decided that for my BX this would should be fine. The direction of pull would be such that the C-Channel would have to rip apart and the entire deck would have to pull up.

With 4 of these holding the BX as well as a 5th to hold the loader I think I feel pretty confident now that I will be ok. I gave it a lot of thought before hand and I will keep an eye on them to see if I see any signs of wear that would indicate it might not hold so in the future if needed I would then pursue welding in a aluminum plate to the side member and the cross member.

70boss1 · May 2, 2005

You wont need to drill into the trailer. Your plates and bolts will hold just fine. You would be suprised at just how little the tractors need to be locked down on a good running trailer. The car hauler I use is very smooth. I found out by mistake. I left my set of house/work keys laying on the deck, 3 inches from the edge. I drove 100 miles from Chicago to Madison in rainstorms and found my keys laying on the deck when I got home.

Keep the tractor in gear, and set the brake. Then cinch it down snug and you will be fine. I also use axle straps and nylon ratchet binders....doesn't mess with the paint that way.

Your trailer looks great..gotta love the aluminum.

Av8r3400 · May 2, 2005

In the post where you describe your binders (top shelf for sure!) the way you are binding is setting up the grab hook to come off. Maybe grab the other leg with the binder? I would think that you would want to bind outside the "grab loop" with the binder to be completely safe.

What brand binder binder are these? Who/what was the name of the company you bought them from on E-Bay?

70boss1: Fill out your profile, then use the search feature to see why nylon ratchet straps are NOT safe for hauling a tractor. Finally welcome to TBN. Allot of great info here. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

skyraiderad5 · May 2, 2005

There was a nice article in "Grading and Excavation" this month in a nut shell it said to figure total weight and add 25%, I would add to that, and say figure total length and add 2 feet to give yourself some play in ballencing the load

surfran · May 3, 2005

av8r,

I set the binders up that way based on some discussion in another thread about if the binder were to fail, then the chain would still be holding although not tight. With this thinking I didn't think it was a good idea to bind between the looped side of the leg as that would slack that leg and leave the potential for the grab hook to fall off.

The way I did it, the pressure is still on the grab hook and the slack is taken up in between.

Is this incorrect? I have primarily used straps in the past so this wasn't an issue.

The binders are Quikbinders by SCC.

I bought mine on EBAY from the seller Cargosupply out of Oregon. I bought 4 for $96+ shipping.

surfran · May 3, 2005

70boss1,

Thanks for the compliment and reassurance. I will be trailering it with the tractor this coming weekend it looks like (finally gonna be nice enough to go mow at the lake /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif).

That will give me a good idea of how well it runs with the tractor on.

I hope the Aluminum turns out to be a good decision long term. My last 3 trailers were all steel.