News on RTV shaft rattle?
- Thread starter Slippy
- Start date
- Views: 22215
DelfinoTX
Bronze Member
Tact, please check with the rep. That arrangment (with the clamp on one side and pins on the other) does not allow any axial movment. What if you run into something and the chassis gets tweaked. This would put extreme loads on the tranny output shaft bearings. There has to be some point in the drive shaft assembly that will give (allow the shaft to lengthen or compress).
I think the engineers should clamp both sides of all u-joints and then use long greasable slip yokes in between (similar to the drive shaft that powers the deck on my ZD28). The longer the slip yoke, the less prone to vibration induced rattling it is.
Using long greasable slip yokes will also increase the mass of the drive shaft which will also help to decrease rattles.
Kubota, are you reading this?
I think the engineers should clamp both sides of all u-joints and then use long greasable slip yokes in between (similar to the drive shaft that powers the deck on my ZD28). The longer the slip yoke, the less prone to vibration induced rattling it is.
Using long greasable slip yokes will also increase the mass of the drive shaft which will also help to decrease rattles.
Kubota, are you reading this?
Just got a reply from the rep and you are correct, the dealer has the brass collar and plastic bushing on the wrong end of the yoke. From he explaination in his email the brass collar slides on the driveshaft first, then the plastic bushing, and finally the yoke. I'm glad you pointed that out, otherwise I probaly never would have inquired. I'll do the swap myself because when I told the dealer of their mistake they said I'll have to bring it back in. What a pain in the ****. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
I'll post another pic when I do the correction.
Fred
I'll post another pic when I do the correction.
Fred
DelfinoTX
Bronze Member
Just as I suspected. You might also want to ask if the u-joint/yoke will still require the keeper pin on the non-clamped side. If it does, then assembling the shaft correctly will require that you compress the green plastic/silicone "cushion" between the brass collar and the u-joint/yoke in order to line up the holes to insert the keeper pin. That preload should keep that side of the yoke from rattling. But reusing the keeper pin in this solution prevents the shaft from giving to axial forces. I think it would be interesting to try it without the keeper pin and preload it by pushing the u-joint/yoke towards the front of the vehicle to preload the cushion ring and tightening the spline clamp.
Yea, what a pain in the butt!! I just got completed with the reinstall and you have to take the complete driveshaft out and work from the rear to the front to reassymble. It was kind of difficult to get the front yoke on because it is loaded onto the middle bearing which is bolted to the crossmember support. I guess there is a trick to do this much easier, I just don't know of it. The last thing I tightened was the clamp to the rear yoke(new part), and I used all the pins. Look at the attachment and let me know what you think.
Well, I can't figure out why my camera is not saving the pic on my hardrive in smaller bytes as I did yesterday. So until I can figure this small problem out I'll try to email it to someone who can post it for me. Let me know. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Well, I can't figure out why my camera is not saving the pic on my hardrive in smaller bytes as I did yesterday. So until I can figure this small problem out I'll try to email it to someone who can post it for me. Let me know. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
DelfinoTX
Bronze Member
Tact, e-mail it to me.. I'll send my email in a Personal Message to you.
DelfinoTX
Bronze Member
Delfino,
You're correct again. The rep just emailed back stating the pin in the new yoke needs to be removed. It is there only for assembly. I think my dealer's mechanics need to go back to a refreasher class in new yoke assembly. My machine is being worked on by me , trial and error. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Do I now need to loosen the clamped yoke and push it back tight on the plastic bushing and then retighten, or just leave it as it is and let it ride on the shaft?
BTW- My fuel gauge still fogs but my temp hasn't fogged as of now. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif I give up.
You're correct again. The rep just emailed back stating the pin in the new yoke needs to be removed. It is there only for assembly. I think my dealer's mechanics need to go back to a refreasher class in new yoke assembly. My machine is being worked on by me , trial and error. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Do I now need to loosen the clamped yoke and push it back tight on the plastic bushing and then retighten, or just leave it as it is and let it ride on the shaft?
BTW- My fuel gauge still fogs but my temp hasn't fogged as of now. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif I give up.
