One more idea of a brush guard
- Thread starter 2515R Dude
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Gordon Gould
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2007
- Messages
- 6,724
- Location
- NorthEastern, VT
- Tractor
- Kubota L3010DT, Kubota M5640SUD, Dresser TD7G Dozer
Nice job - I especially like the filter protection and the steel line cover on the torque tube.
gg
OP
2515R Dude
Platinum Member
It is original, isn't it?
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
I think so, looks like maybe a couple holes drilled to mount stuff but mostly all original.
Gordon Gould
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2007
- Messages
- 6,724
- Location
- NorthEastern, VT
- Tractor
- Kubota L3010DT, Kubota M5640SUD, Dresser TD7G Dozer
Last edited:
2manyrocks
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2007
- Messages
- 9,520
My L2501 is good in so many ways, but it puzzles me why the filters and lines are so exposed when they could have easily incorporated a belly pan from the factory. As an owner, it look me a considerable amount of time to source, measure and fabricate guards.
GeneV
Elite Member
Well that thing looks bulletproof, like literally.
tacticalturnip
Super Member
OP
2515R Dude
Platinum Member
Exactly, it was made on purpose:
1. To keep you busy and out of trouble.
2. To let you brag about on tractor forum
I build the gray expanded metal part. I welded the expanded metal to the flat metal frame. If you look closely you can see the 4 nuts that hold it on. It can be removed easily for service. Any other protection you see is OEM.
OP
2515R Dude
Platinum Member
I know, I was commenting on the comment about loader hydraulic line cover.
Finished the belly protection for the LX3310 a couple of weeks ago. Consists of 4 sections. First section is a front bumper that is bolted to the lower front frame using the same bolts that the factory bolts the front guard. It’s 4 in in front of the tires and 2 in above the front wheel center, approximately the same as the rear clearance.
Next section is a 2 in square tube. Bolts to the center of the bumper and is bolted to the center frame, that is attached to existing bolt holes in the FEL mounting frame and aft to existing threaded holes in the tractor frame. The front frame hour glasses out and back in, allowing unfettered steering movement for the front wheels. Aft frame bolts to the center frame and runs aft to be secured to the same lower bolt positions for the inner three point arm ends. Expanded metal welded to 1.5 X 1/8th in flats proportion to match the outlines of the aforementioned frames, front, center, and aft section. Thes are secured by slots and bold to the respective frames. Slots are made from 1X1 X 1/8th angle welded to front of frames, so brush can’t wedge between frame and barrier.
Un do a few bolts slide barrier shield aft an in. And you can change oil, replace filters, adjust control rods etc.
Worked well cleaning up overgrown field for the last week. 36 hrs on the tractor and brush hog. Lot of work but seems to do the job.
Next section is a 2 in square tube. Bolts to the center of the bumper and is bolted to the center frame, that is attached to existing bolt holes in the FEL mounting frame and aft to existing threaded holes in the tractor frame. The front frame hour glasses out and back in, allowing unfettered steering movement for the front wheels. Aft frame bolts to the center frame and runs aft to be secured to the same lower bolt positions for the inner three point arm ends. Expanded metal welded to 1.5 X 1/8th in flats proportion to match the outlines of the aforementioned frames, front, center, and aft section. Thes are secured by slots and bold to the respective frames. Slots are made from 1X1 X 1/8th angle welded to front of frames, so brush can’t wedge between frame and barrier.
Un do a few bolts slide barrier shield aft an in. And you can change oil, replace filters, adjust control rods etc.
Worked well cleaning up overgrown field for the last week. 36 hrs on the tractor and brush hog. Lot of work but seems to do the job.
Rustyiron
Super Member
There's tons of interest in belly pans here. I'm sure everyone would love to see your project.
I did one for my kubota m9540 that iirc, I "piggybacked" it on another members project. (Ovrszd)
It stayed active for a long time a quite a few members built there own using bits and pieces of the information or ideas from this thread.
Rustyiron
Super Member
My grill guard. Built around 8 years ago.
It's also the basis of my frame mounted snowplow, it serves as the structure for the lift cylinder and arm. It failed on me last month after all these years.
Metal fatigue in the bottom of the "bumper" portion. The reciever was added for the plow mounting project. That tube is 5x7x1/4" wall but takes a pounding when supporting the plow during transport over the frost have riddled roads around here.
Put 1/2" back in it, and I like gussets for the additional 36" of weld just for overkill.
Then the original reciever got bolted back on.
It's also the basis of my frame mounted snowplow, it serves as the structure for the lift cylinder and arm. It failed on me last month after all these years.
Metal fatigue in the bottom of the "bumper" portion. The reciever was added for the plow mounting project. That tube is 5x7x1/4" wall but takes a pounding when supporting the plow during transport over the frost have riddled roads around here.
Put 1/2" back in it, and I like gussets for the additional 36" of weld just for overkill.
Then the original reciever got bolted back on.
CADplans
Elite Member
I do not have a loader to worry about,,
so, rather than add a screen, I substituted distance.
This brush guard is off an 85HP JD tractor.
The dealer was replacing the bent guard the day I bought the 4105,,
I asked for the bent guard, they gave it to me.
The guard will flip down, but, I mounted it out far enough that I can open the hood without flipping the guard.
I drive through the woods all the time, nothing of concern has made it past the guard.
so, rather than add a screen, I substituted distance.
This brush guard is off an 85HP JD tractor.
The dealer was replacing the bent guard the day I bought the 4105,,
I asked for the bent guard, they gave it to me.
The guard will flip down, but, I mounted it out far enough that I can open the hood without flipping the guard.
I drive through the woods all the time, nothing of concern has made it past the guard.
oosik
Epic Contributor
Well - everybody has their own idea. 2515R Dude - that is a thing of beauty AND a whole lot to tedious welding. I took my OEM brush guard to the local welding shop. The young fellow used expanded metal. Came up with good coverage and still easy to fold the guard down - to open the hood.
I like the orange one that Dennis - post 22 - made. Good coverage - robust design. This is mine on my M6040.
I like the orange one that Dennis - post 22 - made. Good coverage - robust design. This is mine on my M6040.
