Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.

   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #21  
To me the cost of the Pex is a no brainer but I used regular 2” EPS for the under-slab. I did decide to pay for extra gravel for a sub base and went with regular EPS.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #22  
Just in case to clarify, I have 2”-3” of pea gravel below my 2” EPS then 2” of pea gravel above before the blocks to hold the wire mesh up. The pex is zip tied to the wire mesh and the slab was poured over
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #23  
Ok,

I need to make a decision on my basement slab insulation. I know I want to insulate it, but whether to use Nudura panels (I was quoted about $1.53/sq.ft for these), or just go with regular EPS? I'm still torn as to whether I'm going to run lines for future hydronic since the consensus on GBA seems to say it's a waste in a high efficiency home. But part of me thinks that if I'm going through the trouble of lying panels down either way, the extra $1000 in pex can future proof and give me the hydronic option in the future if I want.

Looking at about $7000 for the Nudura and Pex.

I take it your'e doing a ICF foundation, are you doing a conventional footer below frost to start your ICF's on? If so I might skip the slab insulation although a compromise would be a 4' perimeter of foam at any "at grade" condition. Not much sense in insulating any wall where your slab is below frost (partial or full backfill). I don't remember if your doing radiant in the rest of the house, if you are I would prep the bsmt.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I take it your'e doing a ICF foundation, are you doing a conventional footer below frost to start your ICF's on? If so I might skip the slab insulation although a compromise would be a 4' perimeter of foam at any "at grade" condition. Not much sense in insulating any wall where your slab is below frost (partial or full backfill). I don't remember if your doing radiant in the rest of the house, if you are I would prep the bsmt.

Yep. Footer below frost with the ICF on top, but the entire back of the house will be at grade (full walkout).
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #25  
Is that walkout south facing? With your views, that walkout bsmt. will be a nice place to be, I'd do a 4' perimeter at the walkout and put the pex in the slab. It really makes concrete very comfortable to "live" on, and if you don't insulate the 1st floor deck you should have some heating gains from the bsmt. to the 1st floor although minor. Shifting insulation money (1st floor - floor) to the bsmt. slab (pex) will be a good trade off imho. :thumbsup:
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #26  
Is that walkout south facing? With your views, that walkout bsmt. will be a nice place to be, I'd do a 4' perimeter at the walkout and put the pex in the slab. It really makes concrete very comfortable to "live" on, and if you don't insulate the 1st floor deck you should have some heating gains from the bsmt. to the 1st floor although minor. Shifting insulation money (1st floor - floor) to the bsmt. slab (pex) will be a good trade off imho. :thumbsup:

Hi, do you have any updated pics of your build. I love the modifications you have made and I plan on building the same plan this fall. Thank you in advance. -Jim
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Hi, do you have any updated pics of your build. I love the modifications you have made and I plan on building the same plan this fall. Thank you in advance. -Jim

I've been pretty swamped with this build which is why I haven't posted on here, so I apologize.

Right now we're wrapping up plumbing and electrical. windows and doors are going in now.

Here's two quick shots from the front and back.

Ea0WTg8.jpg


BDfNeue.jpg
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #28  
Thanks for the update and pictures. That's going to be a really nice looking home. Like the upgrade to Zip System. That's the best by far!!!

Two things jump out at me on your back porch. How will they keep the roof over your porch from spreading out over time?

Where are the beams under your deck to support your joists?
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Thanks for the update and pictures. That's going to be a really nice looking home. Like the upgrade to Zip System. That's the best by far!!!

Two things jump out at me on your back porch. How will they keep the roof over your porch from spreading out over time?

Where are the beams under your deck to support your joists?

No idea on the roof, it's still not finished, but it definitely has me concerned. The builder didn't seem phased when I asked him what would control the truss system from racking on the beams. I just had him frame the roof structure and deck, and I'm finishing it. My dad and I toyed with the idea of adding lateral bracing or a horizontal beam. Thoughts?

The beams for the deck three 2x12's sistered and sitting on the top plate. Joists run parallel to the house. Just can't see it. There's a 3 ply beam at every post location running perpendicular to the house.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #30  
Deck sounds great.

I don't know your area or what snow is like, but at the very least, I would insist on something that looks like the letter A to hold it together. Or a simple beam across the top of the posts would accomplish everything, but might not be the look you are wanting. Maybe a metal rod like they use in Timber Frame homes?
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #31  
If properly designed, the porch is fine. Those are parallel chord trusses. They are very ridged. The sides would only push out if the trusses deflected enough. I used these trusses for my build in Dushore, Pa. No braces or collar ties. Building has been hit with 30+" snow storms and no cracks in the drywall.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #32  
Brant, I don't see any trusses on the back porch?

You drywalled your open porch?
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #33  
Great room. Will assume you're "sincere." Only mentioned drywall because *any* outward movement of the walls would have cracked it. If you don't see trusses, please look harder or google "parallel chord truss."
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Brant, I don't see any trusses on the back porch?

You drywalled your open porch?

Yeah, the porch roof is trussed and tied into the main roof. See attached.
 

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   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #35  
Yep, see it now. Thanks for the clarity.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #38  
Wow, what a beautiful house!

I would consider a horizontal brace, mainly because I've had bad luck with modern lumber twisting and warping (talking about the 2 posts supporting the roof over the patio).
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt. #39  
If properly designed, the porch is fine. Those are parallel chord trusses. They are very ridged. The sides would only push out if the trusses deflected enough. I used these trusses for my build in Dushore, Pa. No braces or collar ties. Building has been hit with 30+" snow storms and no cracks in the drywall.

On a building with four walls, I would agree with you. On a porch with one wall and two posts, I disagree with you.
 
   / Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Quick question for you all. We've started siding, and we're incorporating a 6" banding board wrapped in aluminum at the foundation/sill/wall transition. See below:

gvol4Q0.jpg


When I went to check out their progress, I see they didn't seal/zip tap this transition. Yes, there is significant air sealing on the interior side, but I'm still concerned about water infiltration. The contractor did a good job bending the aluminim around the banding board, and even Z flashed up onto the wall which would have negated the need for the zip tape at the sill joint IF he had zipped the top of the flashing to the wall. However, they did not, so in theory, can't water that gets behind the siding end up behind the flashing and effectively behind both the banding board and the foundation joint?

Here's a picture of the underside of the banding board. You can see the sill plate exposed.

VVYZFkX.jpg


They ran a starter strip against the top of the flashing to start the siding which would have been effective, but like I said, I feel like the top of the flashing should have been taped.

Here's a shot looking in at the starter above the banding board. You can make out the flashing going BEHIND the starter which is good, but that isn't taped to the wall.

LSErK8P.jpg


He already has a 1/4 of the house completed before I caught it, so I have no idea what to do now.

Thoughts?
 

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