Pine Root Cutter

[Renze]

I agree with the subsoiler/ripper idea... A frontloader is too expensive to risk bending or twisting while busting stumps...

Here in Holland they also sell a root cutting knife for excavators... it is basically a subsoiler with teeth. I think its a New Zealand product.

 

[johnrex62]

I have been exploring options to remove trees a bit smaller than what you describe, but are tough to simply pull out, and from what I have been told by folks that have tried the options we are discussing; you will not have much luck with either a bucket or subsoiler on pine tree tap roots.

A fellow with a Gator stump bucket tells me it works great on a CUT for hardwood and trenching, but will not cut the tap root of a pine tree. Likewise, a subsoiler will not be able to do much to the root since it is directly beneath the tree trunk and the tractor has to pull the subsoiler beside the tree where few if any roots extend.

I have to grudgingly pass on the advice I keep getting and recommend a backhoe or excavator for this job. Like you, I would rather do it on the cheap, but for your trees cheap might get real expensive.

 

[srs]

I use a CountyLine subsoiler to cut roots and remove small (< 8") hardwood stumps. The 3pt allows a lot of grunt to be concentrated in a very small area.

What concerns me with using the 3pt subsoiler, especially with the newer tractors is ripping/cracking the part of the tractor where the top link attaches. I know this has been mentioned before in other threads but should you hook a root that won't sheer and you suddenly come to an abrupt stop hopefully nothing on the tractor will get damaged. Just my 2 cents worth. I prefer what JJ recommends, but then again you have to worry about damaging the front end loader part.

 

[Renze]

What concerns me with using the 3pt subsoiler, especially with the newer tractors is ripping/cracking the part of the tractor where the top link attaches.

I dont see that going to happen soon, because this will only put compressive force on the top link bracket, not tear it off. the tooth and the toplink bracket hace a fulcrum over the lower link arms. I ripped some pretty big oak roots with a subsoiler around the fencerow, using the 3pt lift to saw the root instead of just pulling. Never any damage.

 

[Baby Grand]

I dont see that going to happen soon, because this will only put compressive force on the top link bracket, not tear it off. the tooth and the toplink bracket hace a fulcrum over the lower link arms. I ripped some pretty big oak roots with a subsoiler around the fencerow, using the 3pt lift to saw the root instead of just pulling. Never any damage.

I don't move very fast when I'm doing this - it's more a slow tug & lift with the TPH that pulls the roots up & out of the ground. Soil conditions seem to play a big part in how stubbornly the roots "hold their ground". Moist soil seems best for pulling stuff out, even if it's not ideal for traction. Traction usually limits what I can do - I'm not real well ballasted with the subsoiler and my rears aren't filled. I've had good luck doing this with oak, maple and wild cherry < 8" diameter. It really helps if you can get access all around the stump.

 

[otis whitehead]

so yall know the ripper i built is designed to cut the roots about a half width away from the stump. if you cut the stump to darn near level to the ground you can section the roots all the way around. cutting all the support out from around the stump. Then you back up over the low stump and sink the ripper as deep as you can set the hook and then inch forward and pull up on the stump. the Long Agri.. i am running is a 45 horse with the draft system so i can set that and it will pull as you apply load. to this day the most it has done is raise the front tires about a foot at full load with water in the tires.

 

[PapaPerk]

I designed mine. It would rip your roots right out.

 

[Bdavis]

I have 16 acres of pines. Largest are maybe 8 inches. The area burned about 20 years ago so most of them are small. The ones less than 4 inches I can just pull out whole with little problem. The larger ones are more than my tractor can handle (LS 3040 about 2 tons with loader and hitch weights and filled tires)

Can't afford a ready made root bucket so I'm thinking of a homemade root cutter.

I'm thinking of a plate of 1/2 inch steel. Maybe 12"-18" wide that will bolt to the bottom of the loader bucket and extend maybe 18" past the lip.

Use a grinder to put a sharp bevel on the edge then use the bucket to push it into the soil a foot or two from the truck/stump (my soil is almost pure sand, only 2 miles from the shore) to cut the roots making it possible to pull the stumps.

Comments? Suggestion?

I have a similar situation but on a smaller scale than you. I have only about 5 acres. (the other 9 acres where already cleared when I bought the property a year ago)
Last fall I cleared all the big stuff 3 inches and larger cut close to ground and pulled to burn pile. Then used my rotary cutter to cut the rest. I plan on on clearing the stumps this fall. I have did a little testing on different methods. (In my spare time) I have a quick spade and was not overly impressed on trying to remove about a 6 inch stump. ( it works well for digging a trench and ditches and breaking up hard ground)
I am not to concerned about the pine stumps even though they have a heck of a tap root . (it usually breaks)
The gum trees are a real problem roots run every where and are larger than the trees. I think I am going to try and clean up the area this fall with rachet rake and my box blade. Then I am going to do a some good burns on all the stumble. I should then be able to locate the larger stumps. I am going to
burn them before trying to remove them. (they have some really good ideas on burning small stumps in some other threads)
Good Luck !