PJ Trailers

[Reb954]

A while back I was looking for a bigger and heavier trailer than I had. I wanted a 20' 10k trailer for hauling my tractor. While on a trip I saw a trailer dealer that handled PJ trailers so I stopped. All the PJ trailers in the size and style I wanted had the flip up ramps which I knew I didn't want but off to the side he had an Ironbull 20' 14k trailer. After doing some comparisons I ended up buying the Ironbull even though it is heavier than I needed. There was nothing wrong with the PJ trailers but the Ironbull was just a bit better in my mind.

Someone mentioned to not get the dovetail type trailer but you have to look at your situation. Having the dovetail makes it so I don't need to use ramps with my size tractor. I can just back the trailer up to a little hump in my yard and the tractor will just walk up on the trailer with no ramps. For me there is no down side to the dovetail but I realize each persons needs may be different. I am really glad I got the extra weight capacity though.

 

[ruffdog]

I agree with pretty much all of this, but will add some points....
- It seldom is beneficial to spec something too close to capacity, so if you have a wholesale way to get your trailer, go for bigger. Eventual resale will be better for the larger capacity trailer, so it won't be lost money.
- You said "A 7k GVWR trailer at 20' (referenced in OP) is around 2700#", but was that the weight for a tilt deck? Tilt decks are heavier because you basically have to duplicate the frame for the deck area, and that extra iron will reduce your gross carrying capacity.
- 10K also sounds more realistic to me. Dry weight numbers are seldom accurate for tractors or trailers when it comes to real world hauling. Add in a full tank of diesel, a couple gas cans, some tools, straps and chains/binders, planks, a toolbox on the front of the trailer to store your extra chains and straps, tire blocks, a spare tire, the tongue jack, pry bars, picks and shovels, whatever other crap you will eventually toss on there to get the job done, and you have eaten up enough extra that you are always sweating it because you are always running near capacity. If you are able to weigh it ahead of time, make sure you throw on a buttload of extra crap when you do it to account for all the extras that come with trailering a load and doing a job.
- Tilts decks are not for everyone. Some folks like them, but if you have a long/front heavy load and a short/light trailer, or you have to load some implements/gear up front it may tilt back before the back tires are on and then you are jamming wooden blocks under the tilt and sledgehammering them out once the tractor is on. Unless you get a power tilt, which means an even more significant increase in weight for this trailer and reduction in carrying capacity. It is good for loading clearance though, like you say you are looking for. I use my friend's 14K gravity tilt for my tractor and my own utility trailer+planks for my side-by-side, and both have pros and cons. Give some careful thought to what will actually work best for you.

^^^Thank you for taking the time to explain these things!

 

[downsizingnow48]

I had a 20 ft 14k PJ equipment trailer, it was very nice.

I also would recommend a 10k rated trailer over the 7k. You don't want to be at or near the max every time you use the trailer.

 

[ruffdog]

What are the liabilities pulling a trailer that has a higher "capacity" than what the truck is rated for?

 

[LD1]

None, not if you arent actually hauling higher than what the truck is rated for.

 

[downsizingnow48]

The OP said his Ram is rated to tow slightly over 10k.

 

[Rock Crawler]

The OP said his Ram is rated to tow slightly over 10k.

It technically could be, depends. If it is a regular cab 2WD 8' bed, V8 with the Max Tow group than the truck would be up at the top of the max advertised towing capacity. But most truck owners look at the color ads and see the max 1/2 ton towing of ???? and assume that that is what they can do. There is an satiric beside that number. A note says based on configuration, in other words if you want a crew cab you reduce that number accordingly. Want a fully loaded truck with crew cab, glass roof and leather... reduce it more.

There is a Mopar/Ram site that you plug YOUR own VIN in and get the actual tow rating of your truck.

OP, Click this link and open the page, on the right near the top you will see "LOOK UP MY VEHICLE". Click that and enter your own truck VIN and you will get the solid truth.

Entering my own VIN of 1C6RR7YT6HS659423 (Just did it now, I was off by 100 lbs when I claimed earlier that I remembered it) gives me the payload of 1,200 LBS and the max trailer weight of 9,350 LBS.

I see that the current 2018 year 1/2 ton Ram has a range from a low of 7,200 lbs to a high of 10,600 lbs depending on the configuration. Payloads are from a low of 1,420 to a high of 1,880 in this current year model. So as you see, there are many mix and match configurations that can have a great effect on the actual trailer towing capability.

So go ahead and double check yourself. It is fast, free and easy to do.

Ram Trucks - Towing & Payload Capacity Guide

 

[BLSXJ]

I have considered a beaver tail with slide-in ramps as well. I would like to be able to haul cars (including my very low Porsche). In fact I've been looking at a "car hauler" type trailer. Why are you suggesting No Beaver Tail? .

I currently have a 16' car hauler, the back 3' is a beaver tail dropping down about 4" ish. Whenever I'm hauling anything expect a vehicle....which is more then 1/2 the time i use the trailer... the beaver tail makes securing the load a PITA. I effectively only have a 13' flat deck... so picking up 16' lumber or roofing gets silly quick.

if you have a "low" sports car, and you think you can live with a 78" wide deck... I'd be looking at 20'+2' low boy float, with removable ramps and fenders. 10k rating.

if you want to side load pallets or need a 96" deck width your most likely best off with a tilt trailer, since the car wont climb up onto a deck over.

can you swing the deal for two at cost? I'll come and get it!

 

[joeu235]

go for the 10K

 

[coobie]

I recently sold a job to a guy who is a PJ Trailer rep. He told me he'd give me wholesale pricing on a trailer, so that seems attractive. Their promo material sounds great (as expected!). Any real world feedback out there?

FWIW, I would be looking for a trailer that could handle my Kubota B3030-Cab with FEL and Woods BH. I'm thinking a tilt-bed (for clearance issues with BH attached) at 7000 Gross would be a good option. Any comments?

I have had my bumper pull PJ 20 ft trailer (14,000 lbs)for about 5 years with no issues.If I were offered wholesale I would jump on the biggest PJ trailer my truck could handle.I wish i would have went 22ft instead of 20ft with my 6ft brush hog and front end loader it gets a little tight.

 

[hawkeye08]

Perhaps the dealer would let you demo the one you think you want? I have never heard of someone doing that, but maybe he would. See if your tractor fits on it and how easy to load..

 

[WVH1977]

I looked really hard at the 10K PJ Car Hauler. It was a drive over fender style. The only thing that I did not like was the slide out ramps. They were very narrow and if you do not have the tractor lined up just right going up, those ramps can kick-up on you because they have nothing holding them in place. I prefer to have the bigger fold-up ramps that are attached. All the PJ fold-up ramps I saw had the spring-assist on them. That was real nice and made the ramps super light to pick up.

I also agree with others that are suggesting the 10K as long as your truck can handle it. The PJ 10K Equipment trailers I looked at were really nice. I would also get one with a toolbox if you can since you are able to get a good deal.

 

[Jstpssng]

it sounds like this is a one time offer. If i were in your shoes.... I'd buy the "most" trailer i could afford.

I have a collection of trailers, and have rebuilt most of them. I'd recommend a 10K trailer over the 7k because generally its a small price difference and with it you get bigger rims and tires. bigger tires means a stronger tire (more capacity) and lower bearing rpm's. oh and the wheel bearings are bigger too.

If your the type of guy that takes care of stuff and keeps it a long time, consider galvanized or aluminum wheels. the white spoke steel wheels rust.

I'd love a power tilt trailer, but a gravity tilt doesn't seem worth the cost increase.

flat deck no beaver tail is the way to go, unless you want/need to transport cars.

it sounds like you have the length figured out.

maybe look into a adjustable coupler in case you change tow vehicles

if you get ramps, I highly suggest removable ramps, that slide in the back ( not the side )

His first line was also my first thought. With proper care, the trailer will last you a long time. There really isn't a big price difference between a 7k and 10K trailer, especially if you are getting a good deal to begin with.

 

[Rock Crawler]

His first line was also my first thought. With proper care, the trailer will last you a long time. There really isn't a big price difference between a 7k and 10K trailer, especially if you are getting a good deal to begin with.

True that too the long life. Mine is a Circle K made in 1999. It's been across the country and back twice, we did competition sled pulling for 12 years using it, and it's done a thousand other jobs over the last 19 years.

I've replaced the wood deck once. I've completely rewired it once, I've replaced all 4 brake braking plates with complete new brakes one time in 2011 and it's been through countless sets of tires... about a set per year. But I paid $2,800 for it new in 1999 and I bet I could sell it today for $2,200 or so.

 

[Jstpssng]

I will add though, that before buying you price other comparable trailers to ensure that you really are getting a good deal.

 

[dnw64]

Ram Trucks - Towing & Payload Capacity Guide

VIN: 1C6RR7HT4FS567126
MAX TOWING: 10170.0LBS

 

[dnw64]

I will add though, that before buying you price other comparable trailers to ensure that you really are getting a good deal.

Good idea. Will do.

And I probably will go with the 10k gross rating just 'cause.

 

[Fallon]

I will add though, that before buying you price other comparable trailers to ensure that you really are getting a good deal.

Definitely a good idea. Could be a deal or sales tactics.

As is getting as long of a trailer as possible. My former 16' tilting deck only worked because it had a 8' tongue. My new 22' deckover is barely long enough some of the time. It's not just about fitting on the deck either, you need enough extra space to properly balance your load. I'd get a 10k trailer over something lighter. Heavier duty & gives you more options long run.

 

[4570Man]

I’ve hauled my L3800 with a bush hog and loader on a 16’ trailer but the bush hog sticks off the end. Trade the bush hog for a box blade and the whole thing fits. I think a 18’ trailer would be fine unless you plan on hauling multiple implements. Although a 7k would work I’d get a 10k.

 

[IowaFord]

I purchased a 16' PJ T1, which is their Single Axle HD Tilt model. I've put about 4,000 miles on it in the 4 months that I have owned it and it tows very well behind my F150. I'm a big fan. It has a 7k GVWR which sounds like it would be enough for your application. I know many people prefer tandem axles over a single, but I've actually found single axle trailers tend to pull better for me. I like that it comes with 2 10 ply tires rather than 4 smaller, lower-rated tires. It gives me some peace of mind driving at interstate speeds knowing my tires are actually rated for the speed I am traveling.