CADplans
Elite Member
AND it is WAY less weight than your original plan of 1,600 pounds.
These tractors have an aluminum rear end.,,, it looks fragile compared to my IH with cast iron.
Planning a custom ballast box
- Thread starter Musdalen
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AND it is WAY less weight than your original plan of 1,600 pounds.
These tractors have an aluminum rear end.,,, it looks fragile compared to my IH with cast iron.
After listening to you guys, doing some materials estimations, getting some info from Sakrete, and a few other details, I am thinking I'll reduce the size a bunch and end up with a concrete block that weighs around 733# plus the weight of the carrier frame and 4x6 treated timbers that will hold it up. All told, it will probably be around 850#. I'll make it a bit shorter which will keep the weight a bit lower too, and leave room on top for a tool box or crate.
FWIW, Sakrete Cement Mix is about 128# a cubic foot. That is a bit less than the industry standard 150# cf that I was working with originally. But that number comes from Sakrete so I suspect it is right.
I found that Theisen's Farm Supply had 2" hitch receivers for about $20 that will work perfectly for what I have in mind. I just need to see what I have in 4 x 6 timbers and plywood and then buy some hardware and I'm good to go. Mixing up the cement will be a PITA though. It is 5.7 cf of cement and I'll have to mix it a bag at a time in something, not sure what.
FWIW, Sakrete Cement Mix is about 128# a cubic foot. That is a bit less than the industry standard 150# cf that I was working with originally. But that number comes from Sakrete so I suspect it is right.
I found that Theisen's Farm Supply had 2" hitch receivers for about $20 that will work perfectly for what I have in mind. I just need to see what I have in 4 x 6 timbers and plywood and then buy some hardware and I'm good to go. Mixing up the cement will be a PITA though. It is 5.7 cf of cement and I'll have to mix it a bag at a time in something, not sure what.
CADplans
Elite Member
Dump the Sakrete in dry,, sprinkle with water,,,
I guarantee it will set up. no mixing necessary.
The state builds retaining walls with bags of Sakrete.
Stack them, and forget them. Rain hardens the wall.
That idea has occurred to me. It is exactly how I set fence posts when I need concrete. However, in this case, I intend to remove the plywood from 3 of the sides so I would like it to be a little more "solid" on the surface and I think mixing with water prior to pouring and then using a stick to get the air out as I go, will work best, though I'm sure I'll get a few voids.
s219
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Where did you find that number from Sakrete? Seems odd to me that they would be so different. I wonder what they are doing different -- maybe they call for more water?
When I looked into this, I found most concrete mix runs 160-165 #/cu.ft dry. It gets to 145-150 after being mixed with water and curing.
Now I suppose you could get the final density back up by using less water. If you have a 60# sack of concrete mix, that's 60# no matter what. Find the recipe from some other concrete mix (which supposedly gets to a proper 145-150 #/cu.ft) and use that instead.
What about Quickcrete, what density do they spec?
When I looked into this, I found most concrete mix runs 160-165 #/cu.ft dry. It gets to 145-150 after being mixed with water and curing.
Now I suppose you could get the final density back up by using less water. If you have a 60# sack of concrete mix, that's 60# no matter what. Find the recipe from some other concrete mix (which supposedly gets to a proper 145-150 #/cu.ft) and use that instead.
What about Quickcrete, what density do they spec?
olPete
Gold Member
I made a couple of weights for my aerator from "readicrete" and they turned out a fair bit heavier than I calculated, unsure if that's relevant or not 
I sprayed some detergent on the inside of the mold before pouring, and put some in each barrow I mixed, they turned out smooth enough.
They are about 600 pounds each
Half of a plastic drum plus a 2" raised piece to locate the weight in the frame
I sprayed some detergent on the inside of the mold before pouring, and put some in each barrow I mixed, they turned out smooth enough.
They are about 600 pounds each
Half of a plastic drum plus a 2" raised piece to locate the weight in the frame
CADplans
Elite Member
Do you have a air chisel? this video SHOCKED me,,,,
Look how dry the mix looks, then watch the chisel do it's magic,,, at 1:09 minutes in the video.
s219
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Wow that is cool!
olPete
Gold Member
Bit of conduit pipe.
Electric drill.
Wobbly steel rod that is loose in the conduit.. put the 3 together..
Concrete vibrator
Electric drill.
Wobbly steel rod that is loose in the conduit.. put the 3 together..
Concrete vibrator
I'm building the box for what will be my concrete ballast box, and I'm interested in some opinions - everyone has one of those, right?
Anyway, this is where we are at right now. The box is, in round numbers, 17" deep, 21" tall, and 30" wide. It will weigh 900-1000# depending on which density one uses for the concrete. The floor of the box is 4x6" treated lumber, fastened to the frame with all-thread that extends up into the box to anchor the concrete. The back piece of plywood will remain with the box but the sides and the front (not shown) will be removed in the end (if the concrete will let them go
)
anyway, what I am wondering is if I should run a pair of diagonal steel braces from the receiver hitch up through the back of the box and connect through the top-link attachment point (with a hitch pin). I would have to cut some slots in the back of the box which would be a real PITA, but I could do it. I don't weld, so I would have to bolt it to the receiver hitch down below and I could add more bolts along the length to act as anchors to the concrete.
Is that worth it? I'm at odds about it.
Anyway, this is where we are at right now. The box is, in round numbers, 17" deep, 21" tall, and 30" wide. It will weigh 900-1000# depending on which density one uses for the concrete. The floor of the box is 4x6" treated lumber, fastened to the frame with all-thread that extends up into the box to anchor the concrete. The back piece of plywood will remain with the box but the sides and the front (not shown) will be removed in the end (if the concrete will let them go
) anyway, what I am wondering is if I should run a pair of diagonal steel braces from the receiver hitch up through the back of the box and connect through the top-link attachment point (with a hitch pin). I would have to cut some slots in the back of the box which would be a real PITA, but I could do it. I don't weld, so I would have to bolt it to the receiver hitch down below and I could add more bolts along the length to act as anchors to the concrete.
Is that worth it? I'm at odds about it.
Fallon
Super Member
I'd think the concrete itself would be enough of a brace. Especially given the hooks going up the side. Toss some wire in there to reinforce the concrete a bit, it's denser than concrete anyway. Even just a loop of cable from the hitch to the top back would help a bit, no welding required on that. Who cares if you do an ugly job making a guy wire there too... it's about to get buried in concrete.
Personally I filled the bottom of mine with old brake disks & drums, then burried em in concrete. Denser than concrete & added reinforcement to some degree. Not that I needed strength as I was filling an old compressor tank, which is beefy enough.
Personally I filled the bottom of mine with old brake disks & drums, then burried em in concrete. Denser than concrete & added reinforcement to some degree. Not that I needed strength as I was filling an old compressor tank, which is beefy enough.
Fallon, Thanks, I think you are right - or maybe I'm just being lazy, but I'm going go without a diagonal. I have some woven wire fencing I can add. I was going to add some lead, but I would much rather shoot it than use it in this and this will be plenty heavy in the end.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Xfaxman
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How are you planning to keep the concrete out of the receiver hitch?
Xfaxman
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:thumbsup:
Fallon
Super Member
I welded scrap to the back of the hole I cut for my QH top hook & stuck aluminum tape on the gaps. Worked fine for me, but it was at the top of my pour, so not much pressure.
