Portable Chainsaw Mill

widefat · Oct 31, 2017

Do you have one? Which models are good, which are junk?

This type: Carmyra Portable Chainsaw mill 36" Inch Planking Milling Bar Size 14" to 36" - - Amazon.com

Cheers~

TnAndy · Oct 31, 2017

Had an Alaskan mill at one time....the one you referenced seems to be a close copy of the Alaskan. I doubt the mill matters near as much as the saw needed to run it. You need a honking BIG saw to run anything out in the 20"+ range.

For milling small amounts, or making really long beams ( I put a 36' 8x10 main girder in my barn), and given the fact you can basically mill the log where it fell, these types of mills are the trick for the minimal cost.

Downside is they are VERY labor intense, slow, lose a lot to kerf (5/16-3/8 each cut).

I got rid of mine and bought a Woodmizer bandmill nearly 30 year ago and have cut near a million board feet with it.

newbury · Oct 31, 2017

I've got two Alaskans (plus a Woodmizer band mill).

I get by with my Stihl 660's (90CC) running a 42" bar milling up to 36" wood. Have not had to use my

honking BIG saw

, (my 120CC Stihl 088) yet.

They are labor intense, but so isn't earning $5,000 for a bandsaw mill.

Buggs67 · Oct 31, 2017

My problem trying to rip beams from oak with my saw seemed to be that chainsaws are not designed to rip cut. It works OK with softer woods (Poplar, pine) but with the oak I was making fine saw dust even with a fresh chain.

I've read that there are special chains to rip; is that what you'all are using?

Thanks for the feedback. (BTW I'm only doing it for hobby and home projects)

deanocraft · Oct 31, 2017

I have a Granberg chainsaw mill and I bought the Granberg ripping chain and keep it sharp. The chain does work well. My saw is an 59cc Stihl with a 2 ft bar, so I bought a mill just big enough to take advantage of that bar. I haven't milled a lot of stuff, but it did well on the walnut logs I did.

newbury · Oct 31, 2017

Buggs67 said:
My problem trying to rip beams from oak with my saw seemed to be that chainsaws are not designed to rip cut. It works OK with softer woods (Poplar, pine) but with the oak I was making fine saw dust even with a fresh chain.

I've read that there are special chains to rip; is that what you'all are using?

Thanks for the feedback. (BTW I'm only doing it for hobby and home projects)

Yes, "ripping chain" is preferred. Most chain mfgs make a "ripping chain" the prime difference is that it has got about a 10 degree angle on the cutter versus 30 or 35 degrees.

Granberg makes a special "ripping chain"

While there are many companies that sell chain for milling, no other company offers ripping chain that features our specific modifications to the top plate. Our process shaves off approximately half of the tooth lengthwise on the first and second cutter links of each 4 link group. This creates what are called “scoring cutters” and they will take the left and right hand side of a cut, leaving behind a central “lip,” which is then removed by the “clearing cutters”

Chains - Granberg International.

Most CSM'ers use the former type.

Sawyer Rob · Oct 31, 2017

newbury said:
I've got two Alaskans (plus a Woodmizer band mill).

They are labor intense, but so isn't earning $5,000 for a bandsaw mill.

Thing is, every 5th board is FREE with the BSM and it's not so hard to mill enough of those boards, to get your $5000 back!!

My Norwood BSM has given me back my $5000 many times over!

SR

Buggs67 · Oct 31, 2017

newbury said:
Yes, "ripping chain" is preferred. Most chain mfgs make a "ripping chain" the prime difference is that it has got about a 10 degree angle on the cutter versus 30 or 35 degrees.

Granberg makes a special "ripping chain"
Chains - Granberg International.

Most CSM'ers use the former type.

Thanks! I'll check that out.

Sawyer Rob · Oct 31, 2017

Oregon also sells a "ripping chain"...

SR

terryknight · Nov 2, 2017

i have an alaskan mill. started with an 044 and now have a 660. yes it is labor intensive, but it was relatively cheap and i don't mill much.

widefat · Nov 3, 2017

Thanks for all of the input!

ericm979 · Nov 3, 2017

Baileys also sells ripping chain, in their house brand. It's hardly more expensive than their regular cross cut chain.

I bought some loops when I was ripping large rounds of Eucalyptus into chunks so I could fit them in the tractor bucket. The ripping chain was ripping that about twice as fast as good sharp Stihl cross cut chain. It also seems to stay sharp longer.

Buggs67 · Nov 11, 2017

Thanks

Garandman · Mar 16, 2019

I currently have a Stihl MS271 with 18” bar. Recommendation is at least 60cc and a %24” bar because you lose some to the mill clamps.

So - what saw? I can easily sell the 271 or keep it as a backup.

terryknight · Mar 16, 2019

70+cc. i use a 92cc. run a 36" bar. it gives me about a 31" cut. did some milling last monday.

ericm979 · Mar 16, 2019

60cc is not enough for a 24" bar even for normal cross cutting. Milling is much slower than normal cross cutting or cutting along the grain ("noodling"). Ripping chain makes it a little faster but its still slow.

Garandman · Mar 22, 2019

Bidding on a used Stihl MS461 on eBay. The 462 is $1139 new. Local guy is asking $900 for a 461 with 25" bar. I'm thinking a good used one is worth $700-$750?

newbury · Mar 22, 2019

Garandman said:
Bidding on a used Stihl MS461 on eBay. The 462 is $1139 new. Local guy is asking $900 for a 461 with 25" bar. I'm thinking a good used one is worth $700-$750?

I bought my first 660 on Ebay in about 2009 for $500. I checked out Arborist site to get some recommendations of Ebay sellers. That took me a couple of months. But I managed to get one that was rebuilt by someone with a good reputation. The main thing is can you wait for a deal or do you need it NOW?

Also - a lot depends on the bar a good bar might be worth $75, a beat up one may be worthless.

Garandman · Mar 25, 2019

I bid $700 shipping included for a good one. But it had an 18" bar. Someone else bid $710 or $715 which didn't work for me.

I'm in no rush, found someone with a bandsaw mill that will saw logs for me so probably won't do much with the Alaska mill. For my bridge projects just have to flatten the top, so one pass.

Garandman · Mar 27, 2019

Did a test run with the Alaska Mill today. Cut down a 16” dia tree and cut three 10’6” logs. Then used this 12” for a test, as that’s about the size of the bridge supports we will use, and I’ll need to flatten the tops for nailing.

Didn’t buy any special frame or use an aluminum ladder. Just screwed a plank to the top to use as a guide.

The Alaska mill works well. I’ll definately raise the work when doing it for real. I just used one wedge in the end, going to need a couple more. I was using a Stihl MS271 (50cc) with an Oregon ripping chain. For any log much bigger than this, you’d definitely want more power, but if you take your time and let the saw do the work it’s sll good.

You end up with a flat face, as advertised. I’ll try the edging mill tomorrow. EDGING MILL - G555B *Previously Mini Mill* - Granberg International