Post Hole Digger Help

[Steve3130]

I'm having trouble with the drive shaft on my post hole digger. I bought it used and the unit was stored outside. The problem I'm having is the driveshaft will not extend the reach the PTO. Seized up solid. I have been soaking it with penetrating oil and WD-40 for the better part of a week and still nothing. Any advice from the TBN Guru's. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Junkman]

Don't force it........ get a bigger hammer..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[JerryG]

Use PB Blaster instead of WD40. There is no comparison.

 

[Tom_H]

It is my understanding that WD-40 is not a lubricant; it is a solvent. When a petroleum based lubricant has dried up and a semi-solid material remains, WD-40 will lower the viscosity and bring "new life" to the lubricant. If there was no dried out lubricant present, this chemical effect does not occur. If oil and WD-40 are applied together, the WD-40 will simply lower the viscosity of the oil. There are anti-seize compounds which will dissolve iron oxide (rust) and help break the seizure. I would recommend using this first, followed by a lubricant.

 

[rbcsaver]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have used brake fluid as a penetrating oil and it works great. It was recommend to me to try by a auto junk yard. )</font>

It will also remove paint so be very careful on those surfaces you cherish.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It is my understanding that WD-40 is not a lubricant; it is a solvent)</font>

Both the WD-40 can and website call it a lubricant and penetrant with petroleum distillates. I know it is great for chasing water from ignition sytems and wires. However, based on my experience, it is not the best to loosen rusted parts.
WD-40 Website

PB Blaster, don't forget heat and sometimes a BFH are all needed for rusted parts.
regards,
Steve

 

[RonR]

I once un-stuck a PTO shaft on a bush hog mower. This mower had literally sat unused outside for 20+ years! It was Grandpa's and too long a story to tell here.

Anyway, after he died, I needed to mow around the farmsted in prep for an auction. I hooked the 40HP Ford tractor to the new mower and was happy to see it did have blades on it!

The PTO shaft, however, was stuck solid! I hit it with penetrating oil and greased the shaft. Started hitting it with a BFH, but it wasn't budging.

I finally hooked a come-along to the PTO coupler on the mower, and with the mower on the tractor, hooked the other end to the front axle of the tractor and started tightening........... When I got it snug and under some pressure, then I moved to the mower and started applying "love taps"--actually wholloping it hard to finally break it loose.

When it came out, I cleaned the rust off of it, greased it up, and used it 2 weeks prior to the auction--then someone else owned it!

Ron

 

[Tom_H]

Interesting. I don't think they actually list the exact chemicals in it. It obviously has solvent(s) in it to cut grease. I've seen it cut dried grease the way paint thinner will thin paint and bring stuff back to a good viscosity. I don't think the portion of the cocktail they call a "lubricant" is petroleum based. Seems I heard somewhere it has some compound that's graphite based which has somewhat spherical molecules that serve the function of a lubricant. A couple of mechanics have told me that it's not good to use it in car door locks because the solvent will completely cut the low viscosity lubricants in them and lead to drying and seizing within a couple of weeks.

 

[rossibob]

Gary E told me today that PB Blaster is what to use in situations like you have found yourself in. You can get it at NAPA. I was told it is far and away the best for penetrating rust and seized up parts. Try it. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Good Luck

 

[Steve3130]

Thanks for the info. I bought some PB Blaster and a "Bigger Hammer". I'll let you know if it works. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[gotrocks]

Steve,
I got an old Oliver wood lathe several years ago and the split pulley was "frozen".
After two weeks and a can of WD40 and a can of penetrating oil ? it was still frozen.

Got my old kerosene (electric blast) heater out and set the pulley close to the heat and let is get really warm (hot to the touch). Put on my welders gloves picked it up and the thing turned with just hand pressure.

You may have more trouble heating the full length of your shaft but maybe you could get a couple of heat sources and thay may do the trick.

Good luck. I like my Leinbach 12" PHD.

 

[lmiller]

Seems I read somewhere ( probably on this site) that WD-40 stood for Water Displacement 40th try.

 

[JoshJ]

"Seems I read somewhere ( probably on this site) that WD-40 stood for Water Displacement 40th try. " thats what ive heard, cant remember where tho either /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[EastTexFrank]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> Water Displacement 40th try </font> )</font>

According to "Uncle John's Absolutely Absorbing Bathroom Reader", that's exactly what it means.

If all the high-tech scientific methods fail, disconnect it from the tractor, tie the shaft to the tractor and drive off .... something has got to give. This is probably about the biggest "hammer" I can think of.

 

[Tom_H]

You might clamp it to something that vibrates really hard (paint can shaker, jack hammer, etc.) and let it shake for awhile. That might possibly begin at one end of the area where the corrosion is and start breaking the rust apart from the ends of the bonded area toward the center. Over a period of time, bad vibration can destroy almost any machine. It seems like hard enough vibration over a few hours time would eventually break apart a bond formed by rust.

 

[Steve3130]

I'll have to give the pull method a try. Thanks again for all the info. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif