Power Rake build

[RoadHogg]

Could you not make the trailing wheels at a fixed height on the machine and use the tractor's top link to angle the whole machine and thus change the drum height? This would allow you to change drum height from the tractor seat too. (BTW, I love this build, I want one!)

 

[whitepine2]

I had an idea of making one years ago when I was much younger. I had a Cunningham hay crimper
(but guess any brand could be used) that would have most of the components ready made and
very heavy duty,gear box,shear pin,drum and heavy duty bearings that would take the pressure.
This unit had a fiber that tightened the chain instead of an gear this worked well and was under a
lot of stress.Just my idea but I think it would work without a lot of expense and few changes.
Something to think about for those planning to make one W.C.W.

 

[GolfAddict]

That came out really nice, looks professional! After the tweaks you're planning it'll be pretty bullet proof I'll bet. :thumbsup:

 

[Stonehaller]

I found that the set screws on the pillow blocks holding the drum must have vibrated loose and allowed the drum to shift over which threw of the chain alignment.
I'm going to see about finding some kind of sleeve to fill up the gap between the drum and side pillow blocks so it can't move side to side anymore.

You will get thrust load on the drum whenever you turn with the rake engaged in the ground. There is probably thrust load even when going straight as the drum teeth will not be perfect and the ground is never uniform. You can get pillow block bearings with eccentric locks that are much better for holding the shaft than just a set screw in to the shaft. Ideally, you want to lock the shaft on the sprocket side so you could replace just that bearing with one with the eccentric lock.

If you would rather uses spacers on the shaft, then if your clearance hole through the chain box is large enough to get a spacer through to contact the inner race of the bearing then you could put spacers on both sides of that bearing. You would need three spacers, one between the bearing and the drum, one between the sprocket and the bearing and one between the sprocket and the end of the shaft. Have the last one extend slightly beyond the end of the shaft. Drill and tap the center of the shaft and use a bolt with a hardened washer or several fender washers (so they don't flex under the bolt load) to tighten the spacers together. Leave the sprocket loose until you tighten the bolt and then tighten the sprocket.

The simplest way is to just put two spaces on either side of the drum between the bearings as you suggested. You will still get some movement of the sprocket with this method, but I expect it will be small enough for the chain to handle. Lock the spacers to the shaft so they will not be able to spin against the bearing race and wear the spacer.

 

[muddstopper]

To keep the rake from throwing all that trash upon the machine, you might add a mudflap just ahead of the roller. My factory rake just had a piece of angle welded across the front with some conveyor belt bolted to it. Come to think about it, big rocks kept getting hung up in the flap and breaking it off, so maybe not such a good ideal.

 

[Zick]

Thanks guys for the suggestions, I got some ideas to think about now.

:drink:

 

[Sodo]

Great project. Inspiring and nice construction. Thats a lot of welding, bet you had to take a rest.

I was wondering why you chose a single spiral and not two self opposing spirals. In operation does it seem to thrust (when driving straight forward) ? Or can you feel a difference in thrust turning left as opposed to turning right?

 

[Zick]

Great project. Inspiring and nice construction. Thats a lot of welding, bet you had to take a rest.

I was wondering why you chose a single spiral and not two self opposing spirals. In operation does it seem to thrust (when driving straight forward) ? Or can you feel a difference in thrust turning left as opposed to turning right?

Lack of planning...:ashamed:

In hindsight it would have probably been better to build it like you described but luckily it doesn't seem to pull while in operation. If it does it's not enough for me to notice yet.


Oh and I've got to get some new pictures. I reinforced the upper gauge wheel mount and put on much larger wheels. The larger wheels alone made the casters sit almost level so they track better. I haven't extended the wheels out further yet because it seem to be working better now but I still may add 6-12" later down the road.

 

[Sodo]

It does seem like each vane, encountering virgin soil on its left, and perhaps shattered soil on its right, would tend to thrust (some).

Opps! Broke one of the cutters. Hougen was nice enough to send me a replacement.

I like those Hougen cutters. I've broken a couple and Hougen declined my offer to receive replacements. Hougen said what breaks the cutters is trying to cut deeper (thicker metal) than the cutter is deep. When the cut is gets to its depth limit it can no longer eject the chips. So they remain inside the cup, pack up and explode the cup. Which was is exactly how I broke both of mine. I had to buy a replacement "set of three".

Now if I drill near the full depth I proceed very slowly near the limit, clearing chips often. You can carefully use the next size smaller cutter (in the same centerpunch) to create some chip clearance. Or drill a small locating hole on thru then use the annular cutter from both sides.

But anyway congrats on the implement. I like to see what members are building.

What is the general purpose of this implement? To level soil? To mulch vegetation?

 

[Zick]

General use for it right now it to level the yard, after that who knows.