Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320

[1972]

I'm having some problems trying to figure out how to mount chains on the rear wheels of my John Deere 2320 tractor.

First of all, to clarify why I even think of chains, I live on the side of a mountain in Northern British Columbia. My driveway is about 500 feet long and there are a few sections of it that are steep enough to be a problem. If the snow is just right I'm okay, but if the snow is wet, or if it's melted a bit and then freezes, it'shard to get around. Actually, some days I can'nt get around at all - just spin.

I wanted to chain the rear wheels and spent $500 on a really good set of chains. But when I went to put them on it was obvious that if I installed them the first thing they would do is tear off the hydraulic lines that run down the frame on the right side! Bummer! One would have thought JD would have considered that! What's the point in a tractor if you can't put chains on it?

Then I decided that I'd use front chains. So I ordered up the spacers for the front (at $100 per side) and got ready to order chains. But the more I read the more I saw that most people DO NOT recommend putting chains on the front of a 4WD tractor because it's apparently VERY hard on the drive train.

So there goes that idea.

I've been told about turning the rims around but in this case it does not seem it would make much difference. I'm not even sure which rims I have. I understand there are different rims used on the turf tires and the industrial tires.

I have been told that you can safely put spacers on the rear wheels EVEN THOUGH JOHNE DEERE DOES NOT MAKE OR OFFER THEM. Does anybody know anything about this? Can you do this without damaging anything? Where could you order a good set of spacers.

If anybody has any ideas I'd sure appreciate hearing them.

 

[Transit]

I would go with adjusting the width by working with the wheel rim loops and spiders. Keep the wheels turning in the same direction, move the spider to the other side of the rim loop.

Or, the spiders are cupped and may be turned around for a wider stance.

 

[1972]

I would go with adjusting the width by working with the wheel rim loops and spiders. Keep the wheels turning in the same direction, move the spider to the other side of the rim loop.

Or, the spiders are cupped and may be turned around for a wider stance.

Thanks Transit, but no go I'm afraind. The rims are already turned so that I get the widest stance possible. That's the way it came, but not enough room for chains.

Hard to understand why JD would build a tractor you couldn't put chains on. Might as well build a tractor without a draw bar.

 

[bp fick]

Somebody, if not Deere, sells 2" wheel spacer kits for that tractor.

 

[Transit]

Thanks Transit, but no go I'm afraind. The rims are already turned so that I get the widest stance possible. That's the way it came, but not enough room for chains.

Hard to understand why JD would build a tractor you couldn't put chains on. Might as well build a tractor without a draw bar.

Do your wheel rims bolt onto a spider that is coped and the spider is bolted onto the axle?
If so, you should get 6 inches on each side.

 

[RoyJackson]

Don't blame Deere for a buyer oversight!

If you have ag or industrial tires, you want to swap side to side (as they are unidirectional). Turfs can just be reversed (as they are bidirectional).

If the tires are agricultural, you may be able to reposition the hub to the wheel flange. The procedure is in your manual.

If industrial or turfs, you probably have rims welded to the hubs. You measure from the edge of the wheel flange to the hub (where it mounts to the tractor). That is called "offset". Do this on the outside and inside of the wheel. If the inside measurement is greater, you want to swap the tires or reverse them. If the outside measurement is greater, they have already been swapped or reversed.
According to tirechains.com, you want a minimum of 2.5" for clearance.

If it turns out you cannot reverse or swap your wheels/tires, contact your dealer for his advice.

My 4400 was delivered with the tires in "normal" position (I have turfs). There was less then 3" clearance between the tire sidewall and the fender. That was inadequate for the chains. I reversed the wheels (with help from Arribil...THANKS, ARRIBIL!!!!) and now I have > 4" clearance.

Now, chains on front tires... The manufacturers do not recommend doing this, but quite a few folks do. It can add stress to the front axle, but I've not read of a spate of front axle failures on TBN. Thiink that over and make your decision.
There's also a number of folks who did add spacers...again, no spike in rear axle failures to my knowledge. Just don't go overboard on the spacer width (if you need 2", get a 2" spacer, not a 6" spacer).

BTW, 500 bucks (even Canadian bucks) is a lot of money for chains. That's twice what I paid for 41-14-20 chains (big tires on a Deere 4400).

For a little entertainment, check out what this gent did on his 2320:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0LpIQu8AQQ

Added: BTW, you don't state how you're going to remove the snow, so I'm guessing a front blade. if that's correct, rear ballast is essential. If you're using a rear blade...well, just don't let that snow get too deep before you start...

 

[glc24]

I really don't understand why the OP is having a problem. Enough people run chains on these models,and clearance isn't an issue. I would have to question if the chains are being installed properly. They look close to the hydro lines,but once installed there should be more than enough clearance.


Greg

 

[jcmseven]

I agree with Greg. I have a 2320 also, and I have bought chains for it recently. I have plenty of clearance even to the hydraulic lines and certainly under the fenders when prefitting. Our OP may wish to attach some photos so that we are not shooting in the dark on the advice here. Unless there is something highly unique about his machine or the chains themselves this should be doable. I would mention that the 2320 needs chains. These R4 tires are terrible in snow or ice on any real gradient, but with chains I suspect our OP will have found himself a little bulldozer. If he spent this much money for chains at the JD dealer, I suspect they would even help make sure they were the correct size, etc. and help fit them. I will say the original set I ordered for my 2320 were the incorrect size (not my fault) and had to be reordered. In addition, the 2320 has a slightly unusual tire size which may make an aftermarket chain not fit too well.

John M

 

[1972]

Thanks for the comments and advice gentlemen. I really appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.

Roy - yes, I know it was my own fault, not JD. I should have ensured there would be chain clearance before I bought the tractor, so it's my own fault. To be honest with you, I loved everything else about the tractor (still do), and it just never crossed my mind that on a real tractor there would not be adequate space to run chains in the winter. I guess the dealer didn't think of it either. Probably because I live in the mountains of Northern British Columbia, and the dealership is down on the coast in Vancouver where they see very little real snow.

As for the chains, I've attached a picture of them. They are an "H" pattern with the welded "V-lug" cross piece. Good chains, although I was disappointed in the way they made them up with the quick links to attach the tails as you see in the picture. That has since been corrected. I have to have them custom made up because none of the JD dealerships in this part of the country sell chains. Which is another reason why they don't know much about them I guess.

And yes, I know I paid too much for them, but it was the only game in town.

I would imagine that all these 2320's are exactly the same, so I'm assuming the clearances on mine would be the same as anyone else. So I don't see how guys are getting away with chains that close to the hydraulic lines - but apparently they are. I crawled under mine and measured the distance from the side of the tire to the hydraulic lines. It's got a total of between 1 1/2" and 2" maximum for clearance. That's awful close as far as I'm concerned. I figure the chains would be missing the lines by 1/2" to 3/4" and that's not leaving much room for error. If the chains were even slightly loose there's going to be a disaster ending up with hydraulic fluid all over the ground.

The rims are the welded type that come with the R4 tires and they are turned the correct way to give maximum stance. Actually, I don't think you could turn these around. If I reversed these rims I suspect the tires themselves would rub on the hydraulic lines.

You are right about the R4 tires being useless in snow. If the snow is just right I can get around enough to get most of the job done, but if the snow is wet or if it's melted a bit and then frozen again to get things icy - forget it. I can't even get it back in the garage!

I have 10 acres of rural property and I thought these would be the best tires for sort of all round use. In retrospect I might have done better to get the turf tires. I suppose that is still an option. I understand the R3 tire uses a different rim that is slightly offset. That, and the fact that with the turf tire you would not require the heavy "H" pattern chain might make a difference.

I think the best way to solve the problem is to correct the basic design flaw on the location of the hydraulic lines. I can't do it right now as it's too late in the season, but I think I'll park it for the winter and then next summer trailer the tractor to some shop that can replace all the metal hydraulic lines with custom lines. There is no reason for the lines to be sticking out like they are. If the lines were properly designed and fitted I think you could get another 1 1/2" of clearance easily, maybe more. I have no idea why JD hung them out the way they did. Very strange. Design engineer must have been sound asleep that day.

I guess the only other options would be wheel spacers or custom rims.

I love the tractor in general. Been saving up for one of these for more years than I care to admit.

Thanks again for the thoughts and suggestions.

 

[RoyJackson]

I guess the only other options would be wheel spacers or custom rims.

Rims would be really expensive. Do look around for spacers....some of those are quite expensive too, but others not so expensive. Looks like that would be your best bet.
If it turns out you can swap those R-4's, you cannot reverse them (R-4's are unidirectional)...it'll have to be a side to side swap.

You've gone this far...you may as well spend a few hundred more dollars and get those tires rigged with the chains.

Good luck!