Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320

   / Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320 #21  
1972
Just as well get over your frustration that JD doesn't have spacers. :)

I wouldn't worry a bit about not having tubes either.

And I wouldn't avoid finding a local machine shop for fear they couldn't do a good job of milling out some steel with two flat faces and holes/bolts to do the job.

But I really think you should just look at making your own chains to fit better than the ones you have that you are trying to work around.
 
   / Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320 #22  
I agree the matter of taking the tires off the old rims and putting them on the new rims would be a pain in the butt. Especially as they are filled with calcium. The only good thing about that is that when I got the tractor the dealership had already put calcium in the rear wheels but they didn't use a tube. I prefer to have a tube if I'm going to have calcium, so have been thinking of having the tires/rims taken apart anyway to put tubes in them.

Well, maybe swapping the rims will be a pain, but if that's what you need to do, it's time to just go ahead and do it.
Adding spacers isn't just pulling the wheels off and sticking the spacers in. You'll have to get longer wheel bolts (or studs) or you may have to install studs in the existing bolt holes (using Locktite) and using new wheel bolts for the spacer bolt holes.
Either way, it's going to be some work. So would rerouting the hydraulic lines (especially if those are solid lines rather then hose).

Another possibility is moving the hub stamping in (the rim) of your existing wheels. Without seeing the wheels, I cannot state this would even be possible...or cost effective.

At the price 1972 quoted for the new replacement rims ($190), that still seems to be the cheapest and most effective option, if he cannot get the chains to fit otherwise.
 
   / Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320
  • Thread Starter
#23  
1972
Just as well get over your frustration that JD doesn't have spacers. :)

Yeah, I know. :eek: Sorry. I guess I've been beating my head against this for too long and it's getting to me. :ashamed:

A couple of points ..... first of all the chains are already about as custom as you can get them. I had them made specifically for these rims and tires. Length, width, everything about them is custom made for these tires. So there's not much more I can do there.

Also, I talked to my JD dealer (who really is trying to help) and was told that stepping out 1" to 1 1/2" on this tractor shouldn't create any issues with the axels at all. So that's good to know. I'd still like to get that in writting for warantee purposes, but at least it does not seem to be a problem.

So I guess it's going to come down to rims or spacers, and seeing as I can't seem to find pre-made spacers, I guess the rims will get the nod. My JD dealer was going to make some inquiries for me to see what he could come up with in the way of spacers or rims, so I'll wait to hear from him before I order anything.

If I go with the custom rims (or spacers for that matter) I'll post some pictures when I get them in case anybody else is interested.
 
   / Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320 #24  
1972, My :2cents:
Can you post a picture of those hydraulic lines and how close they are to the wheel? My personal preference would be to put a 3/8 or 1/4 thick plate inside the fender that would cover the entire side where the lines are. This way if the chain touches, it would just slide on. That would be a lot easier I think and the least amount of modification and the price should not be bad at all.
 
   / Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320 #25  
I found a pic of my custom chains that have side chains that stay in the dip at the lug ends. If my chains ran along the sidewalls, I'm afraid they would also be much too close (for comfort) to clearing with the tractor parts.

Not sure if your (1972) custom chains run that high, or are on the sidewalls.
 

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   / Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I see what you mean now. No, while I have not had my chains on yet (afraid to do it until I have clearance) I would think mine will come about half way the side wall, or perhaps a bit more. I know they will go down further than what you show.
 
   / Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320 #27  
Thanks for the comments and advice gentlemen. I really appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.

Roy - yes, I know it was my own fault, not JD. I should have ensured there would be chain clearance before I bought the tractor, so it's my own fault. To be honest with you, I loved everything else about the tractor (still do), and it just never crossed my mind that on a real tractor there would not be adequate space to run chains in the winter. I guess the dealer didn't think of it either. Probably because I live in the mountains of Northern British Columbia, and the dealership is down on the coast in Vancouver where they see very little real snow.

As for the chains, I've attached a picture of them. They are an "H" pattern with the welded "V-lug" cross piece. Good chains, although I was disappointed in the way they made them up with the quick links to attach the tails as you see in the picture. That has since been corrected. I have to have them custom made up because none of the JD dealerships in this part of the country sell chains. Which is another reason why they don't know much about them I guess.

2diexio.jpg


And yes, I know I paid too much for them, but it was the only game in town.

I would imagine that all these 2320's are exactly the same, so I'm assuming the clearances on mine would be the same as anyone else. So I don't see how guys are getting away with chains that close to the hydraulic lines - but apparently they are. I crawled under mine and measured the distance from the side of the tire to the hydraulic lines. It's got a total of between 1 1/2" and 2" maximum for clearance. That's awful close as far as I'm concerned. I figure the chains would be missing the lines by 1/2" to 3/4" and that's not leaving much room for error. If the chains were even slightly loose there's going to be a disaster ending up with hydraulic fluid all over the ground.

The rims are the welded type that come with the R4 tires and they are turned the correct way to give maximum stance. Actually, I don't think you could turn these around. If I reversed these rims I suspect the tires themselves would rub on the hydraulic lines.

You are right about the R4 tires being useless in snow. If the snow is just right I can get around enough to get most of the job done, but if the snow is wet or if it's melted a bit and then frozen again to get things icy - forget it. I can't even get it back in the garage!

I have 10 acres of rural property and I thought these would be the best tires for sort of all round use. In retrospect I might have done better to get the turf tires. I suppose that is still an option. I understand the R3 tire uses a different rim that is slightly offset. That, and the fact that with the turf tire you would not require the heavy "H" pattern chain might make a difference.

I think the best way to solve the problem is to correct the basic design flaw on the location of the hydraulic lines. I can't do it right now as it's too late in the season, but I think I'll park it for the winter and then next summer trailer the tractor to some shop that can replace all the metal hydraulic lines with custom lines. There is no reason for the lines to be sticking out like they are. If the lines were properly designed and fitted I think you could get another 1 1/2" of clearance easily, maybe more. I have no idea why JD hung them out the way they did. Very strange. Design engineer must have been sound asleep that day.

I guess the only other options would be wheel spacers or custom rims.

I love the tractor in general. Been saving up for one of these for more years than I care to admit.

Thanks again for the thoughts and suggestions.

I just mounted new chains on my tractor for the first time this week. I have 2 3/4" clearance between the fender and the tire. With the chains mounted I have 3/4" clearance left between the fender and the tire. And I don't have the hydraulic lines to contend with. I can see where 1 1/2"-2" clearance would not be enough for my chains. I would be a little upset with the tractor maker, no matter who that maker is, if they didn't leave me enough room to mount tire chains. For sure I don't understand why some of the tractor makers have so little clearance between the tire and fender.
 
   / Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320 #28  
wp
I see you don't have a Deere.
So lets see the pics of the chains with all the clearance. :)
 
   / Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320 #29  
wp
I see you don't have a Deere.
So lets see the pics of the chains with all the clearance. :)

I have never posted pictures on TBN and I took the chains off this morning but I'll see what I can do.
 
   / Problems trying to install chains on rear wheels of JD 2320 #30  
I just mounted new chains on my tractor for the first time this week. I have 2 3/4" clearance between the fender and the tire. With the chains mounted I have 3/4" clearance left between the fender and the tire. And I don't have the hydraulic lines to contend with. I can see where 1 1/2"-2" clearance would not be enough for my chains. I would be a little upset with the tractor maker, no matter who that maker is, if they didn't leave me enough room to mount tire chains. For sure I don't understand why some of the tractor makers have so little clearance between the tire and fender.

3/4" might even be tight if those chains flop around a bit. Haven't installed mine yet, but after reversing the wheels, I expect to have 1 1/2" (clearance between the chains and fenders) or so.
Don't forget to tighten those chains up after some running (tirechains.com says to tighten them after a quarter mile).

As far as your last statement "...some of the tractor makers have so little clearance between the tire and fender", I doubt if chains are a big priority for most manufacturers. Deere, at least with some models and tire types, does allow for some adjustability. I don't own a Kubota, so I don't know about them...but I have seen Kubotas with chains.

Here's one vid...no chains, but the nut behnd the steering wheel is obviously loose (note the ROPS):
YouTube - Kubota Donuts

Another, again, doesn't appear to have chains but he's doing pretty good:
YouTube - Kubota B7800 clearing snow

1972 said:
You are right about the R4 tires being useless in snow. If the snow is just right I can get around enough to get most of the job done, but if the snow is wet or if it's melted a bit and then frozen again to get things icy - forget it. I can't even get it back in the garage!

I did OK with R-4's (with no chains) in snow...up to about 8" or a bit more. In my case, adequate rear ballast was the key. My drive is fairly level.
I went for chains this year after the double whammy we had in southern PA in Feb 2010. That was about 30-35 inches (two 15+ inch snows within 4 days). Didn't have much trouble with the first snow, once it ended. I use the FEL only, BTW. Second snow was wetter and heavier. Got stuck a few times with that one (used the loader to push back out).
 
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