kennyd
Advertiser
Can you take a picture? The caps are usually held on with two socket head cap screws...None of those links had pictures?
Problems with float
- Thread starter RobiBX2230
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Can you take a picture? The caps are usually held on with two socket head cap screws...None of those links had pictures?
JB4310
Super Member
Did you ever get the loader valve into float? I thought you were pretty close the other day.
JB.
JB.
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
Here are 2 pictures of what I assume are the parts I need to make a hole in to drain any moisture and take off and open to make sure there is no rust or broken parts ... I just cannot seem to unscrew them from the machine...
Attachments
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
And by "here are the pictures" I mean the 2 black hex shaped cylinders, one with tool marks on it (me trying to get it off the machine) and the other has a "12" on it...
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
To be honest, I'm not exactly sure, if the machine is at idle and I have the implement in the air like we talked about, I can put it into what I believe is float for my machine and it will lower to the ground and stop. However, if I leave it there and throttle the machine up to do anything most times I will lift the front wheels off the ground... Once its warm its a little easier, so I assume there has to be moisture in these end cap pieces - or rust, or both. The problem is, I cannot push my joystick past "lower" to a "float" - all I can seem to do is get it to stay in the "lower" position which I assume is correct for my controls...
CharlieR
Bronze Member
I'm not sure what the 2 black hex "dodadas" are - take the plastic cover off and then do a photo.
As Kennyd says they should be held on with two cap screws or two philips screws - like a little cover.
My control is doing almost the same thing but will absolutely not go into a detent position (stay in the down position).
I've been told my issue is crud in the cup that needs to be scrapped out to allow the control piston to extend into the float position.
I thought I did this enough once but I've got to do it again as there is little clearance inside the cup.
Good luck with the clean up.
As Kennyd says they should be held on with two cap screws or two philips screws - like a little cover.
My control is doing almost the same thing but will absolutely not go into a detent position (stay in the down position).
I've been told my issue is crud in the cup that needs to be scrapped out to allow the control piston to extend into the float position.
I thought I did this enough once but I've got to do it again as there is little clearance inside the cup.
Good luck with the clean up.
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
Okay, there are just 4 small screws that hold the plastic cap on to cover the valve etc up. I plan on taking that off when I get time, just did not get time last night. I will see if I can figure it all out tonight and post pictures if I need to.
JB4310
Super Member
Sounds like it must be what Kenny was referring to.
Like it's not engaging all the way due to some type of blockage, that's why it's bumping back out.
But the odd thing is even if it bumped out it should return to center, not raise the machine?
Something you need to know, when you are pushing your bucket along the ground in float, if your bucket edge starts to dig in due to downward angle, that will cause the front end to rise as the machine is going forward, trying to drive up over the bucket, which is going down or meeting resistance
The way to avoid that is to roll the bucket back just slightly so as not to catch the cutting edge.
JB
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
Yes, but even when I am not driving, the tractor will lift up
kennyd
Advertiser
Robi, take a look HERE, I found it by Googling "la211 loader". Page 11 I think is your setup but not 100% sure. Looks like there might be a snap ring (part T and J) but I cannot find any letters in the descriptions...maybe you can download this and print it out for better help? I am not sure what else I can offer you at this point
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
Here is a photo, the valve on the left is the bucket curl and roll and the valve on the right is the bucket lift and drop. When I took the cover off, I noticed that I can push the loader control lever to the right (as to dump the bucket) and push it even further into a second spot (which detents, but not well, keeps popping out)... I cannot however get the control lever to go any further forward (as in a normal float position).
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Egon
Epic Contributor
The linkage may require a little adjustment. This is especially true if there is a little wear.
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
The linkage may require a little adjustment. This is especially true if there is a little wear.
I did fiddle with it a bit, I took it apart a little to see if I could get the linkage longer to push the valve further, but no dice...
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
Here is a quick video of me moving the control lever around and maybe this will help all you help me.. The last thing I'm trying to do is push it past the lower position to what should be "float"
YouTube - 0113102047.3g2
YouTube - 0113102047.3g2
jnjpream
Gold Member
To me it doesn't look like your even getting into the arm float position. Definitely getting into the bucket float. Gotta get the detent end off for both and clean them up.
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
I agree I can't get it into float, I wasn't really aware of a "bucket float" but I was able to give a little force to get it into that position now its easy. I took the plastic cover off and hit the valve with a rubber mallet as I tried to push it into "float" and can't seem to do it still. What do I need to take off, there are 2 large hex shaped things at the bottom of the valve, but I can't get them off (they do screw in, I just can't get enough bite on them with channel locks to spin them off, adding a picture, I circled them in red)
Attachments
jnjpream
Gold Member
What's the srl number of the loader so I can look up the right valve body?
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
jnjpream
Gold Member
Ok, looks like Kenny had it right..
When standing at the front of the tractor, the one on the right is for the arms (up/dn) and the one on the left is for the bucket (lft/rt). Looks like you have to get to the detent balls from the end of the detent pack. You will have to remove the valve body from the tractor to get at them because they are held in by an internal C-clip.
Shouldn't be a big deal.. Remove the cotter pins from the linkage at the end of the spools (the rods that go in and out of the valve body to make it work). Disconnect the three hoses from the valve body (two on top, one on the side under the quick disconnects). The drawing for the mounting bolts is a bit weak, but there is one at the upper right (again from the front of the tractor) and one about half way down on the right both of which are accessed from behind. The drawing doesn't show bolts on the left, but from your picture it looks as though there may be two allen head bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom. They could just be dowels too, just look to see if they go through the mounting plate to know for sure.
Once you have the valve body off you should be able to look at the ends of the packs to see what kind of c-clips they are. Easy would be the kind with a couple holes in the to allow a clip pliers to squeeze the ends together so you can pull them out. Hard would be the kind w/o the pin holes.. I'm guessing hard.
Be prepared to swear a bit.. The ends of the hard ones usually have the outside of the ends ground down so you can get a screw driver behind them to pry the clip towards the center. Once it is pried in enough to get another screw driver behind the meat of the clip you can usually pry it up and out bit by bit. Expect it to want to fly across the room when it comes out..
Once the clips are off, there is a plug of some sorts, a spring, a ring, and 4 balls. Take a look at the Messicks website and look up the LA211 in the parts catalog (link in text at the upper right on the parts page). Look at the control valve component drawings and you will see what I'm talking about.. Your's is the 4 position w/ srl > 30001.
OR, you could spend $130 to get two new detent packs. They look like they do actually unscrew, you probably just need better leverage (pull the valve body and clamp it to a bench or something. And try to find a wrench instead of a channel locks.
When standing at the front of the tractor, the one on the right is for the arms (up/dn) and the one on the left is for the bucket (lft/rt). Looks like you have to get to the detent balls from the end of the detent pack. You will have to remove the valve body from the tractor to get at them because they are held in by an internal C-clip.
Shouldn't be a big deal.. Remove the cotter pins from the linkage at the end of the spools (the rods that go in and out of the valve body to make it work). Disconnect the three hoses from the valve body (two on top, one on the side under the quick disconnects). The drawing for the mounting bolts is a bit weak, but there is one at the upper right (again from the front of the tractor) and one about half way down on the right both of which are accessed from behind. The drawing doesn't show bolts on the left, but from your picture it looks as though there may be two allen head bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom. They could just be dowels too, just look to see if they go through the mounting plate to know for sure.
Once you have the valve body off you should be able to look at the ends of the packs to see what kind of c-clips they are. Easy would be the kind with a couple holes in the to allow a clip pliers to squeeze the ends together so you can pull them out. Hard would be the kind w/o the pin holes.. I'm guessing hard.
Be prepared to swear a bit.. The ends of the hard ones usually have the outside of the ends ground down so you can get a screw driver behind them to pry the clip towards the center. Once it is pried in enough to get another screw driver behind the meat of the clip you can usually pry it up and out bit by bit. Expect it to want to fly across the room when it comes out..
Once the clips are off, there is a plug of some sorts, a spring, a ring, and 4 balls. Take a look at the Messicks website and look up the LA211 in the parts catalog (link in text at the upper right on the parts page). Look at the control valve component drawings and you will see what I'm talking about.. Your's is the 4 position w/ srl > 30001.
OR, you could spend $130 to get two new detent packs. They look like they do actually unscrew, you probably just need better leverage (pull the valve body and clamp it to a bench or something. And try to find a wrench instead of a channel locks.
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
This is very good, thank you SO much for your time... In my picture, have I circled the correct item to remove from the valve body? And the valve body does look easy to take off, its 1 bolt up by the control lever and 2 bolts down at the bottom, should be easy. Am I going to loose a lot of hydraulic fluid when I take it all apart? Trying to prepare the garage if I take it all apart...
