READY TO BURN THIS THING TO THE GROUND!!!

[Redlinecummins]

Yeah we are around 21-2200ft here. I figured around a 5-10hp gain between loosing the restriction of the dpf and giving it some boost. I've been meaning to get a boost guage on it to see where it's at. I run a 7ft snowblower with it and it has no problem at all. The rise in torque is quite impressive.

 

[durf 700]

thats awesome!

 

[mjstef]

I dpf deleted and turboed my XR4040. Best thing ive done to it yet. Goes twice the amount of time on a tank of fuel and runs how I want it to and when I want it to!

I know mine will run without the DPF as i had to pull it out to load it on the trailer to go to the dealer but not sure how it affects the computer? Is yours Hyro or Gear? Mine is gear so i would have to come up with a throttle for the footfeed and the hand throttle......

 

[Redlinecummins]

Mine is hydrostatic. Tractor will run without the dpf but it stays in limp mode which limits your throttle. It would take a little bit of rigging to get it done, but it's worth it!

 

[weathda]

Not possible with a gear drive without ruining the clutch. Didn't want a hydro as it's a power eater mowing especially on hills.....

Sorry for the troubles. You're experiencing what most people fear about T4. You might have some comfort in knowing just because you have gear driven tractor doesn't mean you can't clutch it at high RPMs. Most pulling, pushing or PTO work is going to require significant RPM to keep from bogging. Don't be afraid to run it at high RPM because you fear wear on the clutch. As long as your not slipping it constantly, it's meant to take normal wear for tractor use. I have a 27 year old gear drive Kubota CUT that might dad bought new. It still has the original clutch and it's done a lot of box blading and bush-hogging at north of 2k RPM. Lot of clutching over its lifetime. Your clutch is tougher than you think.

 

[mjstef]

We'll now that it's cooled down its pulling the same BS again. I was out cutting firewood today and just about the time i was done it jumped into Regen and Limp at the same time. Redlinecummins, What would it take to keep it from running in limp without the DPF in? Can a person fake the pressure sensor with a resistor or something?

 

[jdom84]

I can understand how disappointed you are but if you run the manual throttle cables it wouldn't matter if the DPF was in or out because the computer would no longer be able to cut the fuel. Mechanical Diesel engines just need fuel and air to run and taking the computer out of the picture would be the best bet. You could test this buy opening the hood while its running and manually moving the throttle linkage on the pump. You will still have blinky lights but rigging it up like Redlinecummins did would be what I would do. Just having blinky lights all the time isnt going to F'up the computer either... Just need to find out where to get custom cables made in your area. I am certainly not a fan of computerized utilitarian machines

 

[Redlinecummins]

The most reliable way is to get rid of the burner and filter like I did. There are places around that sell custom length of cables that you can rig up for the throttle, spend some decent money and get a good quality one that's low friction. On the injection pump all you have to do is adjust the set screws on the mechanical linkage to give you the correct idle rpm and max rpm. As for the warning lights on the dash I pulled my cluster apart and put tape over the bulb ports so there's no more light. Oh, and only other thing that needs to be done is feed keyed 12v power to the fuel shut off/throttle actuator. One other issue I had is the glowplug timer doesn't stay on long with the ecu showing errors. So to take care of that I wired in a manual push button switch to the glowplug relay (its actually better than it was from day one because I find up here in the cold winters it needs far more preheat to start). The dealer would look at this thing and be like WTF??? because its a frankentractor but I find when **** ain't done right from the factory you always gotta improvise and dial it in to your needs.

 

[jmaurais]

For the last 1 1/2 years i have been having regen problems. I have a couple posts here about them. It has been to 2 dealers in Montana and now 1 in Wisconsin since i moved here. Before i left Montana the head LS factory guy out of Oregon came to my house and put a DPF in it and ran diagnostics on his computer. He said regen wasn't getting hot enough. He then ordered parts and had them shipped to Wisconsin where i live. Those parts where new DPF injectors and something else. Put about 10 hours on it since then. went through 1 regen fine. Now tonight i start it to use it. Withing minutes 1 dpf light comes on. So i park it and bump the idle up to 1,500 since its only 12 degrees in order to help if regen better. About 10 minutes in 2 DFP lights come on. I go in for a bowl of soup and watch the dash through the window. About 10 minutes later 1 of the 2 lights go out and the bottom left caution light comes on. It has done this before so i leave it. Maybe 5 minutes later both DPF lights come on again and the caution light goes out. 15 minutes later 1 of the DPF lights goes out again and the caution light comes back on. After over an hour screwing with it i said screw it and put it in the shed. Maybe i'll get lucky and it will burn to the ground tonight. So sick of this crap and the lack of knowledge from LS. Called the national rep at home in Illinois tonight and told them i'm going to call Agco, (lease is through them) and get them involved. August 1st will be 3 years i have owned it. I can't deal with it anymore. They just need to ship me another tractor as obviously this POS is a lemon!!! Sad thing is other than this BS i really like the tractor.....................................

mjstef,

I apologize for resurrecting this thread.

I have the exact same issue with my XR4040H. It's been fine until a few days ago with some extended work...using it a 4-8 hours a few days in a row. Always ran it 1800 RPMs or higher. When both regen lights are on, it appears to be doing its thing; however, when it should be going back to normal operation, one of the regen lights go out and the red light comes on. Then, after more use it appears to go back into regen mode with both regen lights and the red light goes out. Must have done it three of four times today while using it for around 5 hours straight.

Have you found a resolution?? Please reply or send PM. Thanks....

 

[alexsbuddy]

mjstef,

I apologize for resurrecting this thread.

I have the exact same issue with my XR4040H. It's been fine until a few days ago with some extended work...using it a 4-8 hours a few days in a row. Always ran it 1800 RPMs or higher. When both regen lights are on, it appears to be doing its thing; however, when it should be going back to normal operation, one of the regen lights go out and the red light comes on. Then, after more use it appears to go back into regen mode with both regen lights and the red light goes out. Must have done it three of four times today while using it for around 5 hours straight.

Have you found a resolution?? Please reply or send PM. Thanks....

Just a thought....is it possible that your engine had overheated at the same time you went into regen? I had a similar situation early on and took a pic of the dash at the time to show the tech and then realized after looking more closely at the picture that my coolant temp had pegged out. Checked the radiator screen, and sure enough, it was completely covered with debris. The high coolant temp is what set off the red caution indicator and it was just a coincidence that it happened at the same time as my regen.