Ready to buy, I think????

[PondKeeper]

Max

I will be adding the front blade, thanks for the heads-up.
I doubt a snow blower, I have a stand alone machine.

I will some day want a blower for leaves if one can go on the B PTO.
I've seen them work on golf course machines, but not on a compact tracter though.
Mike

 

[GregJ]

Mike,
I have the R4 tires and was worried about damage to our lawn. I don't use it for mowing, but I knew that occassionally I would be running across the lawn. So far I am amazed at the little damage they do. I am in Western Washington where we get more than a little rain, so the lawn is wet most of the time. Unless I am repetetively running across the same place, like 20 times, I don't see any damage. I have found that in 4wd it will tear up the lawn if you make a tight turn. Other than that I have been pleased.

Greg

 

[TresCrows]

I don't think you will find the turf tires stable enough to do serious work. They are awfully soft and bouncy. The R4 tires will not tear up your yard unless it is very soft or wet. The turfs puncture easily also. J

 

[thcri]

The weight of your tractor has a lot to do with damage to your lawn. Especially on a wet lawn. If you drive over a wet lawn with turf's and R4's using the same model tractor both tires will leave a dent in your lawn. The heavier the tractor the more the dent. My lawn is only two years old. So I don't have good deep root growth yet. My neighbor has a John Deere 955 with turf's and mine is a New Holland TC29D with R4's. I am assuming both tractors weigh about the same. On wet days both of us can drive over my lawn, (being new lawn) and both will leave dents. If we drive over his, (being 6 years old) we leave no marks that you can notice. One year prior with my TC21D and R4's, remember my lawn would be even one year newer, I did not leave any marks at all even if wet. A lot of it is the weight.

Murph

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I heartily agree with the recommendation to change from the turf tires to something more appropriate for a TLB. I took delivery of my BX-22 with them and it only took one "job" to convince me that was a mistake, so I traded them back to the dealer for the bar-turfs. R4s on the B7500 should be perfect for your sitation.

I also agree with the recommendation for the removable tooth bar. I don't have one yet, but it's on the list for this spring. They definately increase the digging capablity in tough soils, etc.

Enjoy your new tractor!

 

[5030]

Get the R4 tires not the turf tires. I have had turf tires on my last 3 'botas and they load up easily. They also puncture easily. If you are set on the turf's get them foamed. I have a much larger (3050) 'bota and the r-4 tires don't leave any marks on the lawn unless it's wet. The 4way valve adds the float position and the toothbar adds digability (new word). It makes up for you lack of gross weight. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I might add...Think about getting at least 1 set of remotes on the rear, they sure are handy and if you only get one set, get the remote with the "float" position on the valve.

 

[PondKeeper]

Thanks all, I am convinced that I should and will switch to the R4's instead of the Turfs. My lawns are well extablished and firm but if the turfs are that soft I know the rocks and even some firm tree limbs will be a problem. I do a lot of scruming in the woods collecting the native stones for repairing and building stonewalls.

I went to the dealer this past Saturday for some test driving and I was told that I should look at the Woods BH instead of
the Kubota BH because the Woods was a sub-frame mount. Could anyone give me the pros and cons of either BH. He told me the price would be the same.

I can't take any delivery until after March 22, the delayed delivery has allowed me to hear everyones opinions. I am greatful to everyone, I am more convinced that when I now take delivery I will have bought the right machine and options, a week ago I would have had a bad case of "I wish I had known that before I signed the deal"
Mike

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Have been lurking and learning. I have 5 acres here in Alaska which I really want to clean up and landscape. The property is sloping down to the south and I have 300 ft of driveway. Lots of trees and not too many rocks. I had just about decided on the BX22 but you have my concerned re: clearance issues. The soil is soft here but not very smooth (yet). I want to clear a lot of brush, level and initiate a nice lawn, so the MMM is important later. Here's the question, how much clearance is enough given my situation and is the BX going to get me stuck and wishing for a bigger tractor too?

Thanks!

 

[GregJ]

Mike,
I have the Kubota BH and it has worked fine for me. I liked the idea of the self contained PTO pump, instead of using the tractor hydraulics and having to break that connection everytime you removed or installed the BH. I'm really not sure how big of a deal that is now. There are a lot of implements that require open connections and seem to work fine, but it just seemed a little cleaner, to me. I have heard great things about the Woods BH and with the subframe mount, installation and removal should be easier. I had to remove and install my backhoe today and it took me about 5 minutes to remove and about 15 minutes to install. It has taken a lot of practice to get the installation down to 15 minutes. The first time was about 2 hours, but like anything else, practice helps. So, I don't think you could go wrong with either setup. Both have good points and bad, but the Kubota BH is orange.................

Greg

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Pondkeeper,

I have the Kubota backhoe on my B2910. Like many others, I like the idea of a sub frame better. But I figured that Kubota probably designed the things OK, since it is for their tractor.

The first thing that came to mind, in addition to what GregJ said [ memory working now...hope that was you Greg...can't see the thread anymore as I type this] was that with a sub frame, you may lose some ground clearance.

I don't know if this is the case with sub frame backhoes all the time or not. But if the Woods backhoe subframe stays on the tractor when the backhoe is removed, and if it hangs lower than the tractor frame as some of them do, then you would need to evaluate how this would affect you, if at all.

As far as use and reliability, I bet both work about the same.

I don't think it ever took me more than 30 minutes to put my backhoe back on, but I'll find out more when I try this spring after having it off for about six months... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif