Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice

[number9L]

I searched a lot today on the forum and seems a lot of people use the Prince SV series valves for rear remotes. I think I am either going to go with a 3-spool Prince SV, with 1) float, 2) float, 3) DA spring center and add the optional joystick and install it on spools 1 & 2. Run the TnT off the joystick and have the 3rd for whatever I end up needing it for. I am worried that the valve will be just a bit too big to fit in where I want it to though. I've got 3" wheel spacers, so I *could* move the fenders out a couple inches if it came to that, but I'd rather not get into all that.

I was also able to find a thread where someone else had used the first joystick valve I posted in this thread and installed it exactly where I want it to be. From the thread he said it worked out great. He hasn't been on the forum in a couple years though I don't think. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/137147-thanks-all-help-tnt.html Trouble with this is I'd only have a 2-spool valve and it only has 1 float. If the Prince SV is just too big, maybe I'll have to go this route and add a diverter valve for spool-1 and run the TnT off of it so they both have float and then use spool-2 for the 3rd function.

If I decide to get a grapple later on, I'll probably just run a hose from the rear of the tractor, up to a QC at the factory loader valve, then down the boom to QC on the cross bar behind the bucket.

I found a complete manual for the SV series valves today and the SV valve with 3 SVW sections is 8-5/8" tall x 8-3/4" wide x 3-1/4" thick if it is standing on the float caps with the handles pointed to the sky. Gonna be tight I'm affraid, but I'm gonna build a cardboard mockup today and see how it looks down in there.

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[MtnViewRanch]

Don't forget about all the room that the fittings and hoses take up.

 

[number9L]

Yep, I've got that in mind Brian.

The SV valve with 3 SVW sections is 8-5/8" tall x 8-3/4" wide x 3-1/4" thick. I made a box this evening that is 9" x 9" x 3-1/4" to see how it was gonna work out and after giving it some good looks, I think it will work out after all. I can't get crazy with the hoses and fittings, but I want to do them neat and as "just right" as I can anyway.

Here the box down in the spot I want to mount it (seat is folded up in most of these pics). I used a scrap piece of wood under the box to hold it in place while I looked and took pics. I plan to cut the unused panel above the box out to make room for the joystick and 3rd lever.

Here's a look from behind.

From behind with the seat folded down.

From above with the seat down.

From above with the seat folded up and a tape showing the room I've got to work with for the fittings and hoses.

I think it looks like it can work out. I need to double check and confirm that the joystick will move into Float in the directions I want (from the seat - forward for spool-1, Top link and to the right for spool-2, Tilt link). If that checks out, I think I'll order the valve, joystick and a few fittings and pick up a length of 3/8" Hyd hose in town so I can start figuring out exactly where it needs to land and then start working on a mounting setup for the valve under there.

What do you guys think? You see anything that I am missing and will stop me in my tracks?

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[MtnViewRanch]

I'm thinking that you may not be able to use the float mode when pushed to the outside. If it pulls in, no problem, just need to confirm which way and how far it moves. Most of your 90s are going to take up a minimum of 1 1/2", so it looks like that will work out for you. Do you have any 3/8" air hose? It works very well to figure hose routing.

 

[number9L]

That left/right stick movement is one of my main concerns too. They offer bent joystick and I know I can bend one up myself as well, but that may be a sticking point. The thread where the other guy put the joystick in the same place and said it worked fine gives me some hope, but that axis didn't have float either.

I've got to take some longer and harder looks at that SV manual and do some figuren on how far that stick will need to move to detent into float.

But since I placed my order for TnT with you this morning, I've GOT to get some valves now

I do have some 3/8" hose up in the attic that I could take over to the shop (about 5 miles away) and use but it's cheap hose and stiff as a poker. That's why it's in the attic :laughing:

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[MtnViewRanch]

You sure DO NOT want to use any stiff hose for measuring. Had a customer do that and ended up remaking ALL of the hoses.

 

[number9L]

When I go to get Hyd hoses, what fittings should I get on them? JIC female?

When I order this valve I want to put some 45 and 90 fittings on the order that will go on the valve, to mock around with and would be better to know what the lines will have on them.

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[paulwestski]

When I go to get Hyd hoses, what fittings should I get on them? JIC female?

When I order this valve I want to put some 45 and 90 fittings on the order that will go on the valve, to mock around with and would be better to know what the lines will have on them.

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:2cents:
You need some SAE to JIC male straight fittings, these are available in long and short, that will allow you to stack lines.

SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) Adapter
SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) Long

Then your 45* and 90* fitting will connect to the straight fittings

SAE 37° (JIC) Swivel Nut 90° Elbow
SAE 37° (JIC) Swivel Nut 45° Elbow

There's not enough room to thread a 45 or 90 fitting directly into the spool.


I like to use hoses with the JIC female ends on them....easier to work with.
I ordered all of my fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose, they also sell the nylon hose protective covering.

Surplus center has the best price on hoses and quick connects. Make sure you order the right size QCs.
If you ordered your T&Ts with QCs they'll most likely be 1/2" make sure you order the right size.
For mock up I'd just order a couple of fittings from SC with your valve.

Make sure you lubricate the JIC fittings with a couple drops of hydraulic fluid during final assembly when torquing.
If you do use any pipe thread fittings don't use any teflon tape. Use high quality liquid sealant (pipe dope).

 

[number9L]

Nice, that helps a lot Paul :thumbsup:

What hose did you use? Seems I remember seeing in your pics they said "superflex" or something like that. I see "1 wire", "2 wire", etc descriptions on hose, what kind of hose should I use?


OH......and I've been meaning to ask you.....what type fittings did you use to attach the QC to the plate you made on the ROPS? I'd like to go ahead and make a plate like that and get it mounted to help in the mock up. I've got the U-bolts and steel, and I'll order the QC with the valve to be able to mount them for mock up of hose length, but what will I need to mount them on the plate?

Also...what's your guys thoughts on running hoses direct to the TnT and just have 1 set of remotes on the rear plate? I'm kind of going back and forth on this. It would a a lot neater install to just run the hoses direct from the valve to the TnT. BUT.....I'd be opening the hyd system up if I ever needed to take a cylinder off....and I guess if I ran all the hoses to rear QC's, there could be a time where I may want to unplug one of the cylinders and use the connection for something?


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[paulwestski]

Nice, that helps a lot Paul :thumbsup:

What hose did you use? Seems I remember seeing in your pics they said "superflex" or something like that. I see "1 wire", "2 wire", etc descriptions on hose, what kind of hose should I use?


OH......and I've been meaning to ask you.....what type fittings did you use to attach the QC to the plate you made on the ROPS? I'd like to go ahead and make a plate like that and get it mounted to help in the mock up. I've got the U-bolts and steel, and I'll order the QC with the valve to be able to mount them for mock up of hose length, but what will I need to mount them on the plate?

Also...what's your guys thoughts on running hoses direct to the TnT and just have 1 set of remotes on the rear plate? I'm kind of going back and forth on this. It would a a lot neater install to just run the hoses direct from the valve to the TnT. BUT.....I'd be opening the hyd system up if I ever needed to take a cylinder off....and I guess if I ran all the hoses to rear QC's, there could be a time where I may want to unplug one of the cylinders and use the connection for something?


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Those are called bulkhead fittings
Male Pipe (NPTF) x SAE 37° Flare (JIC) Bulkhead

Those hoses were supplied by Fit Rite. They're a good value.
You may want to tell Brian to not supply the male QCs.
If you buy these from Surplus center you won't need them.
Surplus Center - 3/8" NPT QUICK COUPLER F/F S40-3
Make sure if you order the hose kits from Brian to tell him you need 3/8 Male pipe thread on the QC end.

Although most everyone else uses 1/2" QCs I don't see the need for T&T. You'll be making small adjustments and don't need a lot of flow.
The 1/2" QCs are double the price.

I usually get the 3/8" 2 wire hose they're rated for more pressure.

Just figure on using QCs on the T&T.
Do you have a backhoe?
If so you'll want to remove the T&T cylinders when you mount the backhoe.

You may want to just put the T&T QCs on the plate, and for the third spool have some short hoses with QCs.
That way you can route them towards the front of the tractor for future grapple use.

A lot will depend on whether you have a back hoe or not.
I did and had limited real estate on the back of the tractor.
six QCs takes up a lot of space.

Suggest that you order all of the QCs and bulk head fittings at one time.
That way you can layout the the proper spacing on the mounting plate.

Down load this file lots of good info here.
How to Identify Fluid Ports and Connectors

When you assemble the valve don't for get to lube the o-rings between the sections with hydro fluid.
Once you get all done mocking up the valve and test mounting everything remove the valve, degrease it and paint the valve. I masked off all of the plastic and rubber parts.

:2cents: