Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice

   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #61  
Looking very nice.

Did you ever consider that once you got to the point you are at now to have someone with knowledge of steel hyd lines do a setup for you?
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #62  
I've never used JB Weld and surprised that it would have enough strength to attach the pipe fitting to the flange. Probably doesn't have to be super strong since it's a return line?
Very nice work!
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice
  • Thread Starter
#63  
Nah, JJ I sure didn't. Steel lines sure would be sweet, all bent to be just the right length.....

npalen, JB Weld is pretty good stuff. Only reason I used it in this application was I only had 1 NPT fitting on hand and bought the last one TSC had in the store and didn't want to take a chance on actually welding it and screwing it up, or getting the plate too hot and drawing it. It's only a return to tank, so there shouldn't be any real pressure on it.

...
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice
  • Thread Starter
#64  
Success!!!! :D

Got the hoses today and got it all buttoned up. No leaks and it seems to work great. I've got one hose that seems to be weeping at the crimped fitting but gonna wait and see for sure. Other than that, no issues. I'm glad I got some extra 45* elbows in case I needed them somewhere, cause I did end up using a couple of them.

Only thing that gave me a hassle was the line from the FEL valve to the SV valve IN. I decided to leave the FEL line stock and just connect it to the new hose with 3/8 bent tube 90*. I'd actually got the new hose a few inches too long. I knew how I wanted to connect it but didn't crack the OEM line loose when measuring for the new lines, so I just eyeballed it and planned on figuring out just exactly how to route it once I was into it. I finally figured out a nice clean route but it gave me fits for a while.

Ive still got the fender and stuff off and plan to pull it outside in the sun and take some well lighted pics tomorrow. My shop is under lighted as you can tell in most of the pics I've posted so far.

A HUGE THANKS TO ALL who have have advice, answered my many questions and posted details and pics of their process for us to see. I've put several other members ideas into this and am really pleased with how it turned out. I plan to work up a summary with pics and details and part #'s so anyone else with an L series that runs across this can copy line for line if they want.

Again, BIG THANKS guys!! :thumbsup:

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   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #65  
Congrats on the nice clean install.
Steve
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice
  • Thread Starter
#66  
Thanks Steve.

Here's a pic of how I mounted the SV valve. The 3 gold colored bolts are the ones that mount the valve. For the top bolt location, I just drilled a hole in the stock fender mount bracket and also in the fender as well so the bolt can pass through the fender. I may redo this one and just drill a larger clearance hole in the fender if I ever take it off again. Trying to hold the fender in place, hold the valve in place and get the bolt started is a real PITA.

For the bottom valve mount, I made a "T" out of 3/8" x 2" stock and welded it to the bottom stock fender mount down just over top of the axle. I drilled clearance holes in the fender for these two so I can remove the fender without removing the bolts that hold the valve on. I'll most likely do the same for the top bolt if I ever have the fender off again.

SV_20_zpsd33eafe3.jpg


You can see the clearance holes in the fender in this pic. Also, you can see that I reversed the bottom fender bolt so the threads are on the outside of the fender. The extra length of the bolt was contacting the hyd hoses that are routed on the inside of the fender and I was worried it would rub a hole in them.

SV_35_zps4f033a42.jpg


The plate idea the I lifted from "Steve in MT" worked out real nice. It made for a short return to tank hose (labeled 25in in the pic).

SV_21_zps82ef1aa1.jpg


SV_23_zpsfa356611.jpg


The valve and fittings fit "just right" and while it is tight in there, everything has ample clearance.

SV_22_zpsae874aa3.jpg


SV_24_zps379c9fa4.jpg


SV_25_zpsf877a0c7.jpg
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice
  • Thread Starter
#67  
The 90* elbows on the Quick Connect fittings worked out real nice too. I lifted that one from Paul. You can also see the hose routing in this pic pretty well.

SV_26_zpse3ba7a13.jpg


I used a 45* elbow on the Power Beyond from the valve instead of a 90* to be as free flowing as I could allow it.

SV_27_zps7e95ccb1.jpg


On the Hyd block, I used a 1/2" 90* Bent Tube fitting, combined with a 1/2" to 3/8" JIC reducer and connected the hyd hose from the PB out of the valve. You can see it at the front edge of the floor board, looping around and back to the hyd block. I ran both that hose and the Inlet hose up under the floor board.

SV_28_zps17feb0f1.jpg


For the Inlet, I just ran the stock FEL hose under the floor board and connected it to the Inlet hose of the valve with a 1/2" to 3/8" JIC coupler, to a 90* 3/8" JIC Bent Tube fitting. Both hose routing can be seen in this pic. The hose on the left side of the pic is from the FEL to the 90* Bent Tube fittings and on to to the Inlet on the valve.

SV_29_zps9c915636.jpg


And here's a good laying under the tractor shot of the FEL / valve IN hose connection.

SV_30_zps0eb76fd4.jpg
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice
  • Thread Starter
#68  
Here's how it all looks with the fender back on. Also the control joystick / 3rd section lever after getting a coat of Kubota gray paint.

SV_31_zpsa966eb06.jpg


SV_32_zpsdf2a5f45.jpg


SV_33_zpsf8826be0.jpg


I may have to add some height to the joystick. It's CLOSE. I find that I bump my leg against it on occassion and inadvertantly tilt the 3ph. Also the knob on top just kisses the fender when putting the Tilt cylinder into float. I probably won't be putting it in float a whole lot though. I'll run with it some more and decide later if I need to modify the joystick any. It works fine as it is, but could be better.

A pic of the TnT hose routing. I used 28" length on all 4 hoses to keep them as short as possible and still work well. I used a 90* fitting on the upper Top cylinder hose and a 45* on the lower hose to keep them in good range of motion. On the Tilt cylinder I used a 45* on the top hose and just came stratight out of the cylinder for the lower hose.

SV_34_zps344c9a57.jpg


Lastly, I found that with the TnT installed, it was possible to get the QH handles up into the bottom of the tail lights when raising the 3ph all the way to the top. So, I took one of the brackets I cut off the stock fender mount and cut it down to act as a limit travel for the 3ph lever. I installed it just in front of the stock limit travel plate.

SV_18_zps8f51d689.jpg


SV_19_zpsc470a011.jpg


...
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #69  
Very well done. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #70  
Good Job!
 

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