Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice

[JoeL4330]

Interested to see how this works out. A lot of thought has gone into it. For my setup (6 rear, and a 3rd function) I have found no use for float. My bush and my finish mowers have swinging links to attach to the top link, so they follow or I would just use a chain. [I have previously posted about sometimes using a HF swinging toplink adapter with my backblade, which has a hydraulic tail wheel]

I do consider it vital for the T&T cylinders to have positive check valves ...just the opposite of float, as it were.

Not too long ago I had a malfunction w the 3rd fctn on loader joystick and started using one of the rear remotes for my grapple. BUT, it was very impractical...required two-handed contortion and I could not seem to coordinate U/D/Curl w. grapple-open/close. I repaired the 3rd fctn and switched back.

As for the box blade, it would seem that quite the opposite, you would want rigidity to smooth the contours, not follow (and exaggerate) them.

The OP asked about use for float on Tilt ...only use I can think of is to allow my backblade to follow crown when plowing snow ...although I could introduce compliance in other ways if I chose.

I should add that using "push-pull" qc's is a pleasure ...especially in tight spaces

 

[paulwestski]

Number9L

You may want to invest in a set of hydraulic wrenches. They're thinner and have offsets that will save you a lot of frustration.
They're pretty inexpensive for a cheap set. It's not like you'll be torquing the fittings to 50 ftlbs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/V-8-Tools-8...337?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3658f9e9

 

[number9L]

Joe, a lot of thought has gone into this, I usually stress myself out thinking of every possible situation that may come up down the road and leave me with regret that "dang I should have done X or Y". I made a hasty decision on a truck once and lived with it for 10yr wishing it was something else. I think that ruined me, but I've not lived with too much regret on decisions I've made since.

I use the HF QH for my bush and finish decks too. They both have swinging top links but didn't have near the range of motion I need for my land - lots of hills and banks, with only one small true flat spot that I mow. I made a copy of the LandPride floating top link adapter and that helped a good bit, but I still find myself compensating all the time with the 3pt height. I believe the floating top TnT will cure that, but I'll likely have to modify the decks so the top link is fixed like on a BB.

I've got a BB ordered and I need to do a LOT of making grades and cutting ditches on my property as the water drainage is horrible. The PO's obviously gave no thought to water drainage anywhere. I believe the float on the tilt TnT will help with keeping the ditches cleaned out once I get them cut, as well as follow drive crowns (that I have to cut as well).


Paul, I'd seen your mention of buying a set of hydraulic wrenches in your TnT thread and planned on getting some. I've read your thread many times and have it subscribed so I can find it for easy reference. I plan to copy a lot of what you did and mix in some stuff I've seen others do as well.

Also to answer one of your earlier questions, I don't have the backhoe attachment, so I've got more leeway on mounting things in back and running the hoses.

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[number9L]

So Conrad from Surplus Center called me today to tell me that they've confirmed with Brand Hyd that those part #'s are in the system and orderable............but it will be a 20 WEEK lead time as they will be "custom" builds.

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[number9L]

I think I am just going to go with the SV valve. I don't want to install a temp valve for the 20 week wait and then have to open the hyd system back up and do everything all over again.

Gonna place the order tonight or tomorrow and get the parts here so I can start the mockup for the lines and all.

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[number9L]

So getting ready to order my fittings. Wondering if I should get a 90* Bent Tube fitting to connect the Inlet and Outlet on the SV valve? Fluid would be flowing through here all the time, so wondering if it makes that much of a difference in heating the fluid up that they are worth the cost?

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[number9L]

Ordered the Prince SV valve and all the fittings today. Looking forward to getting the parts and starting the mock up and mounting plates figured out. I'll post up some pics during the process.

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[number9L]

All (most all) my fittings came in. Looking at the QC couplers......the tractor has the male fitting on the tractor with the female part on the hoses for the FEL.....but most everyone I see post pics of rear remotes has the female QC on the tractor. I got the ISO-B QC's so they'd match up to the Kubota OEM connectors. I guess it makes sense to me that the female QC may be apt to get dirty/banged around if it's on the hoses / implement end?? But I'd also think I'd like the option of the QC's being common - who knows, I may be in some situation someday and need to plug into the FEL valve for something??

What are the Pro/Con of each way?

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[MtnViewRanch]

All (most all) my fittings came in. Looking at the QC couplers......the tractor has the male fitting on the tractor with the female part on the hoses for the FEL.....but most everyone I see post pics of rear remotes has the female QC on the tractor. I got the ISO-B QC's so they'd match up to the Kubota OEM connectors. I guess it makes sense to me that the female QC may be apt to get dirty/banged around if it's on the hoses / implement end?? But I'd also think I'd like the option of the QC's being common - who knows, I may be in some situation someday and need to plug into the FEL valve for something??

What are the Pro/Con of each way?

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Industry stds vary for how the loader QDS are situated. ALL rear remotes have the female ends on the tractor. Most use 1/2". Kubota seems to use 3/8" for their tractors that don't have the remotes integrated into the machine. :confused2:

Pro for having the male ends at the rear, no ones other stuff is going to work on your machine.

Con, for having the male ends at the rear, no ones other stuff is going to work on your machine.

Your choice, I can't see why you would ever use the FEL lines for anything since you have the rear remotes.

 

[number9L]

Hmm....ok, guess I'll put the female ends on the tractor. I figure since I went with the ISO-B QCs that most probably any attachment I get with hyd will have to be changed/modified as they will likely come with some other QC anyway. When you buy an implement with hyd, do you have the choice of specifying the connectors or do they just come with standard ag connectors? I went with the ISO-B to match what was already on the tractor - I don't plan on using the FEL for anything else, but who knows, I may be in a bind someday and need the flexibility to connect an implement at either end?? Maybe I'm just over thinking a little too :laughing:

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