Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice

[J_J]

Looking very nice.

Did you ever consider that once you got to the point you are at now to have someone with knowledge of steel hyd lines do a setup for you?

 

[npalen]

I've never used JB Weld and surprised that it would have enough strength to attach the pipe fitting to the flange. Probably doesn't have to be super strong since it's a return line?
Very nice work!

 

[number9L]

Nah, JJ I sure didn't. Steel lines sure would be sweet, all bent to be just the right length.....

npalen, JB Weld is pretty good stuff. Only reason I used it in this application was I only had 1 NPT fitting on hand and bought the last one TSC had in the store and didn't want to take a chance on actually welding it and screwing it up, or getting the plate too hot and drawing it. It's only a return to tank, so there shouldn't be any real pressure on it.

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[number9L]

Success!!!!

Got the hoses today and got it all buttoned up. No leaks and it seems to work great. I've got one hose that seems to be weeping at the crimped fitting but gonna wait and see for sure. Other than that, no issues. I'm glad I got some extra 45* elbows in case I needed them somewhere, cause I did end up using a couple of them.

Only thing that gave me a hassle was the line from the FEL valve to the SV valve IN. I decided to leave the FEL line stock and just connect it to the new hose with 3/8 bent tube 90*. I'd actually got the new hose a few inches too long. I knew how I wanted to connect it but didn't crack the OEM line loose when measuring for the new lines, so I just eyeballed it and planned on figuring out just exactly how to route it once I was into it. I finally figured out a nice clean route but it gave me fits for a while.

Ive still got the fender and stuff off and plan to pull it outside in the sun and take some well lighted pics tomorrow. My shop is under lighted as you can tell in most of the pics I've posted so far.

A HUGE THANKS TO ALL who have have advice, answered my many questions and posted details and pics of their process for us to see. I've put several other members ideas into this and am really pleased with how it turned out. I plan to work up a summary with pics and details and part #'s so anyone else with an L series that runs across this can copy line for line if they want.

Again, BIG THANKS guys!! :thumbsup:

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[Steve in MT]

Congrats on the nice clean install.
Steve

 

[number9L]

Thanks Steve.

Here's a pic of how I mounted the SV valve. The 3 gold colored bolts are the ones that mount the valve. For the top bolt location, I just drilled a hole in the stock fender mount bracket and also in the fender as well so the bolt can pass through the fender. I may redo this one and just drill a larger clearance hole in the fender if I ever take it off again. Trying to hold the fender in place, hold the valve in place and get the bolt started is a real PITA.

For the bottom valve mount, I made a "T" out of 3/8" x 2" stock and welded it to the bottom stock fender mount down just over top of the axle. I drilled clearance holes in the fender for these two so I can remove the fender without removing the bolts that hold the valve on. I'll most likely do the same for the top bolt if I ever have the fender off again.

You can see the clearance holes in the fender in this pic. Also, you can see that I reversed the bottom fender bolt so the threads are on the outside of the fender. The extra length of the bolt was contacting the hyd hoses that are routed on the inside of the fender and I was worried it would rub a hole in them.

The plate idea the I lifted from "Steve in MT" worked out real nice. It made for a short return to tank hose (labeled 25in in the pic).

The valve and fittings fit "just right" and while it is tight in there, everything has ample clearance.

 

[number9L]

The 90* elbows on the Quick Connect fittings worked out real nice too. I lifted that one from Paul. You can also see the hose routing in this pic pretty well.

I used a 45* elbow on the Power Beyond from the valve instead of a 90* to be as free flowing as I could allow it.

On the Hyd block, I used a 1/2" 90* Bent Tube fitting, combined with a 1/2" to 3/8" JIC reducer and connected the hyd hose from the PB out of the valve. You can see it at the front edge of the floor board, looping around and back to the hyd block. I ran both that hose and the Inlet hose up under the floor board.

For the Inlet, I just ran the stock FEL hose under the floor board and connected it to the Inlet hose of the valve with a 1/2" to 3/8" JIC coupler, to a 90* 3/8" JIC Bent Tube fitting. Both hose routing can be seen in this pic. The hose on the left side of the pic is from the FEL to the 90* Bent Tube fittings and on to to the Inlet on the valve.

And here's a good laying under the tractor shot of the FEL / valve IN hose connection.

 

[number9L]

Here's how it all looks with the fender back on. Also the control joystick / 3rd section lever after getting a coat of Kubota gray paint.

I may have to add some height to the joystick. It's CLOSE. I find that I bump my leg against it on occassion and inadvertantly tilt the 3ph. Also the knob on top just kisses the fender when putting the Tilt cylinder into float. I probably won't be putting it in float a whole lot though. I'll run with it some more and decide later if I need to modify the joystick any. It works fine as it is, but could be better.

A pic of the TnT hose routing. I used 28" length on all 4 hoses to keep them as short as possible and still work well. I used a 90* fitting on the upper Top cylinder hose and a 45* on the lower hose to keep them in good range of motion. On the Tilt cylinder I used a 45* on the top hose and just came stratight out of the cylinder for the lower hose.

Lastly, I found that with the TnT installed, it was possible to get the QH handles up into the bottom of the tail lights when raising the 3ph all the way to the top. So, I took one of the brackets I cut off the stock fender mount and cut it down to act as a limit travel for the 3ph lever. I installed it just in front of the stock limit travel plate.

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[MtnViewRanch]

Very well done. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[cmore]

Good Job!

 

[paulwestski]

Excellent job Number9L
Very well thought out and executed.

You're right about everything being tight where the lines come out of the valve.
I bet you used those hydraulic wrenches a lot.

the only thing that I can see missing is some nylon hose protection.

 

[number9L]

Hose protection will come. Honestly I forgot to order any, but also wanted to see how the hoses laid together and get an idea of what I'd need.

Would it be best to get one sleeve for each hose or one sleeve to fit several hoses like the FEL came with from Kubota?

Oh, and YES, the wrenches worked out great, actually I'd never have got all the fittings on and tight without them!

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[paulwestski]

Regarding the hose protection...I'm sure there are a lot of opinions.
Mine would be to mix an match. Put about 12" of single hose covering on each hose coming from the QC mount plate, Then nest all of those hoses into a larger sleeve for the balance of the hose run to the valve.

Again Great Job!

 

[Steve in MT]

Holy crap on a cracker, thats quite a stack of couplers ya got there. Your going to need a diagram with little circles and arrows so that you can remember which lever controls what coupler. By the way, I'm going to steal your idea about using bed liner on the floor boards. Thanks for posting the pictures.
Steve

 

[number9L]

The QCs are plumbed in order of the work sections on the valve and their ports.

So.....QCs from the top down...

WS1A = QC1
WS1B = QC2
WS2A = QC3
WS2B = QC4
WS3A = QC5
WS3B = QC6

The bed liner on the floor boards has been great. Boots grip them good still when wet or muddy, rocks in my boots don't scar them all to crap and the pressure washer makes them look new again.

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[number9L]

The QCs are plumbed in order of the work sections on the valve and their ports.

So.....QCs from the top down...

WS1A = QC1
WS1B = QC2
WS2A = QC3
WS2B = QC4
WS3A = QC5
WS3B = QC6

The bed liner on the floor boards has been great. Boots grip them good still when wet or muddy, rocks in my boots don't scar them all to crap and the pressure washer makes them look new again.

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[Fallon]

What model valve did you end up going with? Prince SV? Was the model numbers you posted a few pages for the 2 & 3 spool valves the ones that were 20 week custom orders?

I've got a L3200 (same exact tractor & engine, only slightly less displacement & HP) & am planning on copying your install almost exactly. I may call around & see if anybody local could custom bend steel lines for a reasonable price & will possibly use different QC connectors. I figure if an **** retentive person documented a build that well when it turned out that nice & it almost exactly matches my needs, why reinvent the wheel.

Anything you would have done different on your build in retrospect?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I can't speak for number9L and he has not been on the forum for a couple of weeks, but the valve set that he bought ended up with internal leakage and I am pretty sure that it was considered within spec. So ultimately he has hydraulic cylinders that were leaking down at a pretty good rate. So you might want to consider a different brand of valve. :confused3: It's to bad he ended up with those problems, he did do an excellent installation. Hopefully he will come back and get us an update of how things are now.

 

[Fallon]

I'm sitting here doing up a spreadsheet of all the parts he listed, prices. links, etc. I trying to figure out where everything went so I fully understand everything. My biggest problem is trying to figure out what length hoses went where, could only trace a couple labeled ones in the photos.

I'll definitely reconsider the valve. I like the concept of float on the tilt for following the crown when plowing snow & trying to use my top cylinder as the start of a down pressure attachment for a 3pt post hole digger. So I'm not excited about going to the pilot valve on the cylinders as that would put a hurting on both those plans. That might mess up fittings & hose lengths thought. Darn, I may have to actually put some thought & design into this myself instead of just slacking & copying. :laughing: I do agree it was an excellent install. It all looked OEM except for possibly the QC bulkhead.

Think a manual or possibly even electronic on/off valve would make things usable with a sloppy valve?

Still thinking about possibly doing steel lines, at least between the valve set & the bulkhead. I need to call some local shops. In general are steel lines competitive with custom hoses?

Any thoughts about going with 1/4" hose between the TnT cylinders & the QC bulkhead? I'm thinking about using some smaller cheaper QC's for my TnT, then 1/2" ag or flat faced for the 3rd spool.

I'll definitely be giving Mr. Fit Rite a call before ordering stuff. :thumbsup: Anybody can sell a product, and whether it's great or crap, you're bound to run into problems at some point. I'd rather go with somebody who has a good track record of support & stands behind their product. Pretty sure all the posts I've seen around here qualify as good support.

 

[number9L]

Sorry guys, haven't been on in a while. Traveling for work and then BIG project going on at work right behind that.

Yes, I went with the Prince SV valve - part #'s I listed earlier. I haven't had the chance (or made the time I guess) to check the leak rate on the valve. I've got a strong feeling that it's gonna be within their spec anyway. I just can't see all 3 work sections being "bad".....1 maybe, but not all 3. I AM going to do the test so I know for myself - and I probably have already past Surplus Center's return window.....:irked:

Anything to do over, YES....wish I knew that valves had an internal leak spec and I'd have been asking right off what those specs were when I was researching valves. If I had it to do over, I would not go with the Prince valve.

The valve with the long lead time was a Brand valve. Part #'s were posted earlier as well - for the specific "special order" valve config I wanted. Who knows.....I *may* end up with one on my tractor at some point.....maybe. I've learned to deal with the leak off - but it DOES freaking suck and drives me NUTS when I forget about it for a few (5-10) minutes and the BB slams into the ground while I am operating the tractor over uneven ground.

I've got a crude sketch I did when measuring for the hose lengths. I'll find the pic and post it so you know what lengths go where.

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