Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice

   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #42  
Hmm....ok, guess I'll put the female ends on the tractor. I figure since I went with the ISO-B QCs that most probably any attachment I get with hyd will have to be changed/modified as they will likely come with some other QC anyway. When you buy an implement with hyd, do you have the choice of specifying the connectors or do they just come with standard ag connectors? I went with the ISO-B to match what was already on the tractor - I don't plan on using the FEL for anything else, but who knows, I may be in a bind someday and need the flexibility to connect an implement at either end?? Maybe I'm just over thinking a little too :laughing:

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Typically, you get 1/2" male AG type, 1/2" flat face or none.
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Been messing with the Prince valve today. Got some of the joystick preassembled and one of the float sections top post (?) changed out to the post the joystick uses. The other float section is being difficult. The bottom post (float end) keeps coming loose instead of the top. I took it out and cleaned the threads and locktited it back in and am gonna let it set over night hoping that will do it.

I don't know about this 3rd Spring Center work section though. I don't think it's gonna work down under the seat. I ordered the enclosed handle kit for it cause I knew the standard linkage type handle wouldn't work up between the seat and fender. This enclosed handle kit is gonna stick back under the seat farther than I thought it would. I'm gonna try and see if I can make a handle that will bend back toward the valve and then up by the seat. If it don't work out, I may have to just buy another inlet and outlet section and single that work section out and put it somewhere else. :confused:

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   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice
  • Thread Starter
#44  
So I got the top posts of the work sections out and replaced today. Looking more, I think the spring center section will work out, I'll have to custom make a new lever for it but I don't think that will be a problem. I got the valve all put together and the enclosed handle kit and joystick kit installed and put a coat of Kubota grey paint on it. My TnT from Fit Rite should be here in a few days so I've got to get the tractor washed and start the mockup of the mounting for the valve and QCs, figure what length hoses I need and find a place to get them made. I hope to have it all on in a couple weeks as I've got a lot or regrading to do around my shop and driveway and the TnT would make it go a lot smoother.

I'll post up some pics of the mockup when I get into it.

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   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Started the mockup last night. Here's the valve put together and painted.

SV_1_zps4e14351f.jpg


First thing was to remove the fender and get better access. This panel that covers the 3ph lever has to be trimmed to allow the joystick to come up beside the seat. I want this to look as factory as possible so it's more standing, looking, thinking, than action so it's slow going.

SV_2_zps105b597b.jpg


I had to make a mount bracket to mount the end of the panel after it's trimmed. I want to use the bolt that holds the 3ph lever stop since it's already there and will look factory. I removed the panel and ground the welded nut off the bottom. Then put the panel back on and made a bracket just like the other two. Marked the bracket for the hole location, drilled the hole and then welded the nut back onto the bottom of the newly made bracket. There will need to be more brackets welded to the main fender support brace to mount the valve on, so I'll wait and paint it when it's all ready to bolt on.

SV_3_zpsf1283a38.jpg


SV_4_zpsd2dfa8e3.jpg


Looks like I am going to have to cut the 3ph lever off and weld it back on at an angle so it won't interfere with the joystick when in the full up position. Maybe, but I think it will have to be modified.

That's all I got done last night, got a late start. Hope to make a lot more progress today and for sure over the weekend.

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   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #46  
A bit off topic, but I am curious for a project I am currently working on (backhoe subframe, more to follow in a few days) are you using real Kubota Gray paint or have you found a reasonably priced substitute?
 
   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice
  • Thread Starter
#48  
Got some progress made this weekend. Everything is still in mockup and has to be taken back down and painted when my paint gets here Tuesday. Got the valve mount made and installed. Fits real good. The joystick is going to be a little tight, but playing with the lever rotation should get it lined out.

SV8_zps9eaeaff0.jpg


SV7_zpsaa472761.jpg


Valve fits real good on the inside of the fender.

SV10_zps6ee8b195.jpg


I wanted the QCs to be all vertical like Paul did his, but he only had 4 and I've got 6. Didn't want them to get down beside the lift arm on the 3ph so I notched the mounting braket so the top 2 would be up higher in the bend of the ROPS.

SV9_zps368a7e40.jpg


SV6_zps7f237516.jpg


Gonna work on the return to tank tomorrow. Think I am going to try and copy what another member did (forget who it was now) and dump it to the top of the housing rather than T into the loader block down under the floorboard.

I'll post up more and better detailed pics when I start the final assy.

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   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice
  • Thread Starter
#49  
Got all the fittings on and measured for hose length today. Gonna try and get them made tomorrow of I can skip out of work early. Also fabed up the lever to control the 3rd valve. Paint order should be here tomorrow and Fit-Rite TnT here Wed.

I goofed and ordered 3/8 fittings for the hydraulic block and realized last night that they are 1/2 JIC. Placed an order last night at DHH for the correct fittings. Hope to have it up and running by the end of the week but that depends on the UPS truck I guess. I'll take and post pics when everything is painted and going back together.

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   / Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice #50  
It would be nice if you could use some steel lines coming off of the QCs to eliminate the octopus.
Are you coming out of the QCs with a 90* fitting and then the hose.
You could alternate every other hose left and right.

HIJACK;)
Where can I get a steel tubing flaring tool that will put a JIC flare on the end of tubing.
Does the JIC flare need to be a double flare??
Id like to be able to make up my own steel lines.
 

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